Roaming About

A Life Less Ordinary

Category: Culture (page 1 of 6)

A Month in Northern Argentina – Dusty Towns, Pretty Vineyards, Wonderful Wine & Scenic Drives

April 21, 2024 / / 34 Comments

“The scenery is amazing!” “The people are so friendly here!” “Everything just works!” “Argentina is dirt cheap!” – These were the sentiments shared by fellow overlanding friends when they arrived in Argentina, many months before we did. People loved the change of scenery, culture, attitude, and quality of life, once they crossed that “last” border.

View of a windy mountain road in Northern Argentina
A dusty neighborhood near our camping spot in Maimara
Many old cars litter Cafayate’s streets

Mark and I couldn’t wait to visit. But, sometimes, slow travel bites you in the butt. In March 2024, when the three of us finally arrived in Northern Argentina, prices for everything had doubled, if not tripled or quadrupled, and the excitement of other travelers was lost on us. Because we are on a tight budget? Because we travel with a dog? Because we came from “westernized” Chile with immaculate paved roads, leashed dogs, friendly drivers, clean cities, and modern feel?

Argentinian money comes in many colors and denominations – the biggest one being 2,000 pesos ($2) and the smallest one being 10 pesos (1 cent). The 1,000-peso bill is used the most. There are no coins!
The longest line at an ATM (cash machine) we have ever seen ocured in Tilcara
Line for an ATM in Cafayate

In a nutshell: We had expectations when we crossed the border (and that was our mistake, really; we know better than to have expectations). Yet, what we – initially – found were dusty towns, lots of trash, dangerously grooved roads, ear-piercingly loud motorcycles, the smell of burnt garbage, and loose dogs. There were also a lot of indigenous people, unlike in Chile. Northern Argentina felt like an extension of Peru and Bolivia, and it was NOT cheap.

Maya is sick of the barking, loose dogs and doesn’t want to budge anymore.
Loose dogs on every road in every town of Northern Argentina
Some loose dogs in the park next to our camper in Cafayate

Apart from those experiences as vehicle drivers, long-term travelers, and dog owners, of course there was beauty, joy, and excitement to be found as well. Why else would we still be on the road?

Our destinations in Northern Argentina

Susques

After a beautiful drive, a smooth and efficient border crossing in Pasa Jama, and a disappointing money exchange (our crisp U$100 bills weren’t as crisp as we thought, and the blue dollar “tourist” rate had dropped a lot), we spent our first night near the town of Susques, which has a cute adobe church.

Welcome to Argentina!
The one administrative building that houses all the stops and officials for a border crossing into Argentina
Ready with all the paperwork

Here, we had to choose between the famously pretty but bumpy Ruta 40 South or the paved comfort of Ruta 68. We picked the easy solution and are happy we did as it delivered beauty in the form of scenery and new friends.

Cute adobe church of Susques
The unique interior of the adobe church.
The famous Ruta 40 starts in Susques, next to the restaurant we spent our first night at.

Salinas Grandes

Before reaching our first real tourist town, we stopped at the salt flats of Salinas Grandes. We’d hoped to visit the Ojos, clear pools in the middle of the Salar, on a short van tour, but because of recent rains, this part was too wet to drive on. So, the three of us just walked around the salty terrain with its clear-blue canals – and Maya was a mess!

I believe these channels are formed from mining the salt.
One of the clear canals of the salt flats
Taking Maya for a salty walk on Salinas Grandes
One of the mountains is reflected on the wet salt flats

Purmamarca

In Purmamarca, we only anticipated a hike among the colored mountains. It was a hot afternoon, but the fee for the trail was low and the surroundings bright and attractive. When returning via the center of town, we liked it so much that we decided to spend the night on the sloped parking lot we had pulled into earlier. The pleasant atmosphere of downtown – and the prospect of dinner at a pizza restaurant that didn’t open until 8 pm – had us change plans.

Purmamarca is famous for its colored mountains
Colorful hills surround the trail in Purmamarca
Hiking under a hot sun in Purmamarca
Colorful and hot walk with Maya
Splurging on an excellent pizza and tasty bottle of wine at a local restaurant
Continue reading

A Day in the Life of a Nomad – Salta, Northern Argentina

March 28, 2024 / / 40 Comments

Mark and Maya had a restless night. I did a little bit better, staying covered by a sheet. The heat and humidity in Salta are still relentless, this time of the year. It is mid-March 2023. Fall is around the corner in the southern hemisphere, but we had forgotten what it is like to live in a jungle-like setting at barely 4,000ft (1,200m). The day time temperature soars at around 95 degrees Fahrenheit (35°F) and – unlike in the desert or the Andes Mountains – it barely cools off at night. Tiny no-see-um bugs (gnats) make their way through the mosquito screens, so if you leave yourself exposed, you’re itchy as well as sweaty.

Our campground in Salta: Carlos Xamena
Pricelist of the Carlos Xamena campground (Divide by 1,000 to get the US dollar amount.)

We decided to stay at an established campground for a few reasons: it would be quieter than anywhere else in this sizeable city, it is affordable ($5 a night), there are hot showers, toilets, trash cans, and potable water, I had a project with a tight deadline, and the sites are level and shady.

Shady spot at the campground

When we arrived, yesterday, we found a relatively shady spot next to a tree that didn’t obscure our roof-mounted Starlink satellite internet antenna. By this morning, however, our lithium battery is almost drained from being parked in the shade, running all our fans at high speed, and an inefficient fridge that never turned off, because of the heat. Yeah, this is still our expensive, over-priced Isotherm compressor fridge that we bought brand-new in the US, inconveniently replaced in Texas before leaving the continent, and have struggled with since!

Apart from the “validation step,” I finished my translation job, after a sweaty and tough afternoon and evening and – because we are trying to keep our stay to a minimum due to the uncomfortable climate – I have a busy day planned. The idea is to complete all our sightseeing and errands in Salta within one day and head to a higher altitude.

Thirsty Bella in the sun, with laundry strung up

Everything that needs to be done should happen between 8am (when the sun comes up) and 10am (when the heat becomes unbearable). Of course, that is impossible. Because we have unlimited water at the bathroom sinks, I wash our underwear, socks, and shirts by hand. We hang everything up on a line in the sunshine. Then, I prepare for a short visit into the historic center. Mark is not interested in joining – it’s too hot – and stays home with Maya. Ideally, we move the camper in a shady spot, but we need the solar power to charge our battery and our laundry is strung alongside Bella.

Mark and Maya found cooler weather in the shade – the pool is empty now and for ten out of the twelve months

I leave my family by a shady picnic bench and walk to the entrance of the campground, at the opposite end of the grounds. Sweat drips down my face when I inquire about ways to reach town. The public bus stops right in front and is cheap, but you need a card. Colectivos are affordable as well, but they don’t stop by the main square (my destination) and I have no idea where to grab one. A taxi it is. For the first time on this South American trip, the vehicle is metered. Progress is slow and I watch with dread how the meter keeps climbing. When the price reaches the equivalent of $2, I ask the driver to stop and hop out. I’ll walk the last bit.

Street in the downtown
Big hotel in Salta
Colonial buildings and police presence along the plaza
Continue reading

An Eventful Three Weeks in Northern Chile – As Overlanders

March 23, 2024 / / 38 Comments

When the three of us left Uyuni, there were two options to exit Bolivia. Initially, like all our overlanding friends, we planned to take the southern route to Argentina, a country everyone raves about. We realized, however, that this meant missing out on Valle de las Rocas and the northern part of Chile.

“At which border will you leave Bolivia?” the vet asked. He needed to know the answer for Maya’s health certificate details. “Ollagüe, Chile,” we said and our fate was sealed.

Ollagüe

The border crossing on February 12th was easy and straightforward. Mark and I had eaten most of our perishables, leaving us with an empty fridge and meager food pantry. We checked out of Bolivia after scanning a QR code, filling out forms, and receiving the exit stamp. There was some confusion, since we each had two entry stamps, due to our border run from Peru, a few months ago.

Leaving Bolivia
Walking to the Bolivian customs and immigration building to check out of the country.
Welcome to Chile!

We received new passport stamps for the new country, obtained a Chilean TIP (Temporary Import Permit) for the vehicle, and handed over Maya’s international health certificate. Another agriculture official entered the camper and – before he started opening cabinets – I asked him which items were prohibited: fresh meats, fish, eggs, honey, and produce. I gave him whatever we had left of one onion and a lime. Then, we chatted about his experiences as a border agent, Afghanistan veteran, and dog owner.

The roads in Chile are amazing!

From the moment we entered Chile, the bumpy, gravel road surface turned into beautiful, smooth asphalt. A joy! We stopped in the town of Ollagüe to find local money and vegetables. We failed on both accounts, but managed to fill our tanks with potable water.

Topping up with potable water in Ollagüe

The volcano route

Another reason we picked this border crossing was the appeal of a scenic drive in the high Andes, past lakes, altiplano (high plains), and volcanoes. Unfortunately, the weather was cloudy and rainy. The views could have been better (where were the anticipated snowy tops?), but we still enjoyed the ride and camping spots and ate whatever we could scamper from the cabinets. There were no stores, banks, or fuel stations along this multiple-day trip. At least we weren’t spending any money.

Flamingos in the salt pond
Cloud cover over the snowy volcanoes
Lots of vicunas at our first camp spot in the Chilean Andes
Meager ingredients for dinner – Mark picks out the carrots of a jalapeno can to eat more vegetables.

We could have sped up towards the city of Calama, really not that far away, but we wanted to cherish the surroundings and take our time. Mark, Maya, and I climbed one of the small volcanoes before breakfast one morning. I admit to seriously miscalculating this effort at over 13,000ft (4,000m). I had read this excursion would take 20 minutes up and 15 minutes down. Right. For fit millennials maybe…

Parked between two volcanoes

Continue reading

Overlanding and Dog Challenges in Bolivia (Early 2024)

February 17, 2024 / / 40 Comments

Once in a while, I offer a glimpse behind the scenes of our nomadic lifestyle. Yes, I do often write about the ups and downs of life on the road, but rarely in detail. If you’ve been following along for a while – or read my memoir, Plunge – you know that I aim to present a realistic image of being perpetual travelers.

Let’s pick up where I left off in January: departing the Las Lomas Campground in La Paz after running the place and being stationary there for one month. It was a nice break that let us catch our breaths from the challenges of the road, but it brought (unexpected) consequences, namely an array of road blocks, the start of rainy season, and a dog attack.

Leaving Las Lomas on bumpy roads
Very informative truck regarding passing him

Road blocks are “a thing” in Bolivia, meaning they are quite common and often related to the political situation involving ex-president Evo Morales. I just finished reading a great memoir by fellow overlander and virtual friend Mary Hollendoner, called Monkeys on the Road, in which she describes being stuck in what almost became a Bolivian revolution in 2019! Interestingly, this happened while she was camped at Las Lomas Campground. Their plans in this country were affected as well.

Ironically, this latest set of road blocks started on January 22nd, which was Plurinational State Foundation Day, a newish holiday initiated in 2009 to celebrate Bolivia’s multi-ethnic identity. That’s when the indigenous people started their political protests. Our next destination was the constitutional capital and World Heritage Site of Sucre, but access was impossible.

These road blocks popped up while we were still camped in La Paz

Mark and I gave it a few more days in La Paz and then left to a split in the road further south, near Oruro, where we camped for another two nights at Sora Sora. Based on the roadblock situation, we could drive to Sucre from there, or skip the town and head to Uyuni, where its salt flats are the highlight of Bolivia.

Camped between the ruins and the river for two nights
The sun returns in Sora Sora
Cute church ruins at Sora Sora

But first, we needed gasoline for Thirsty Bella. The Bolivian government makes it difficult for foreigners to fill up their tanks, as fuel stations need special systems and paperwork to make that happen. Plus, the price for non-Bolivians is more than twice what it is for locals. We believed using a jerry can circumvents some of these issues, but it sure is a hassle to get gasoline this way. Yet, that would be our approach.

My travel companion in Bolivia

Continue reading

Cusco, the Sacred Valley & Machu Picchu in Peru – With Visitors

January 20, 2024 / / 39 Comments

Note: For more info and photos of Cusco and the Sacred Valley, which Mark and I visited before, check out this post and this one.

(As always, click on or hover over photos to read their captions.)

Cusco in Peru
Cusco & the Sacred Valley

Cusco

After our two-week adventure in Arequipa and Colca Canyon, Mark, Maya, and I returned to the tourist mecca of Cusco. We slept the first night for free on the edge of town to walk to the grocery store and stock up, and to have dinner at one of our favorite restaurants, Teryaki.

Shrimp poke bowl at Teryaki

The following morning, the three of us walked to and through the two areas we had booked Airbnbs, to get a feel for them. We stumbled across a “market” along a busy street, where locals were selling puppies. It put a bad taste in our mouths. There are so many stray dogs that need help and a good home, yet, just like in the western world, people would rather buy animals than rescue them.

Locals selling puppies
Puppies crammed in crates
More puppies being sold

After our reconnaissance, we relocated higher up, to the Quinta Lala campground, where we met our American friends Heather and Rodney. The idea was to relax for one week, catch up on much needed sleep, and prepare for the visit of my cousin, Griet, and her husband, Wim, on November 20th. Of course, that didn’t happen.

Working on the roof at Quinta Lala
Parked next to Jeff and Sheri’s truck camper, before they arrived

Mark was hired by our friends to install their new Starlink system and did his freelance job other times and I received translation project after translation project, leaving little time for fun and rest. Whenever we had a moment, we enjoyed the company of Heather and Rodney.

Homecooked dinner with Rodney and Heather at Quinta Lala

They had brought parts for us from the US, among which a new laptop, so we focused on fixing and installing a few things in – and on – Bella and getting Mark’s computer ready for use. It was all time consuming.

Our friends Rodney and Heather brought a bunch of gear back from the US for us
We needed a new 12V vacuum cleaner (our old one broke) to dry out our ceiling.

We also had to make sure Maya received enough exercise, did laundry by hand to save some money, met up with a Canadian friend (tour guide and climber Marie, who surprised us with maple syrup and maple butter), cleaned the interior of the car and camper, and walked into town a couple of times, taking a cab back up the hill. All the while, we needed to consider daily downpours, as the rainy season in Peru had started in earnest.

Treats from Quebec, Canada, brought by our friend Marie
Rodney takes a break near the top of the steps
Aqueduct in Cusco
Climbing steps in San Blas
Cute bars, restaurants, and decorations in San Blas
Another mural in Cusco’s historic center
San Blas church and square
Continue reading

Monthly Expenses of a Nomad in South America – December 2023 (Peru & Bolivia)

January 13, 2024 / / 18 Comments

Expenses - image

Every month, I post a report of our expenses to show that it is possible to live a comfortable, exciting, and adventurous life without breaking the bank. The less money you spend, the less you need to make. 🙂

This report includes ALL of our expenses, in US$, for two adults and one 60-pound dog (we adopted Maya on June 4th, 2019). Under groceries we incorporate food, produce, and non-alcoholic drinks predominantly bought in supermarkets. Toiletries belong in that category as well. Dining out means eating at a restaurant/event or purchasing take-out food. The health category covers non-prescription medicines and vitamins/supplements; medical contains prescription drugs and doctor’s visits. Because of our income level, Mark and I are eligible for free health care within the state of Massachusetts. For check-ups and extensive care, we return to the US East Coast. Other health issues are resolved locally  and out of pocket where needed and possible.

For part of December 2023, Mark and I parked our truck camper, Thirsty Bella, at the Quinta Lala campground in Cusco, Peru, while we explored the city and surroundings with my cousin, Griet, and her husband, Wim. After they flew home to Belgium, we got ready for the road again, met up with good friends, and made our way to the Bolivian border, which we crossed on December 19th. After a few days in Copacabana, we reached La Paz, where we’ve been stationary since, to run the Las Lomas campground for a month.

Another goodbye to our friends Katherine and Brandon
Happy hour with Katherine and Brandon in our camper
Dinner in our camper with Sheri and Jeff
Welcome to Bolivia
Camped in busy and popular Las Lomas, La Paz

The car category was huge! Not only did we spend almost $300 on gasoline, we also had two costly “repairs,” and purchased liability insurance for six months in the Mercasur countries (Argentina, Brazil, Uruguay, and Paraguay with Bolivia and Chile being associated states).

In Cusco, we added “unbreakable” security film to the four side windows of our truck, after reading repeated reports of foreign cars being broken into in Chile.

Getting security film added to our car windows took around three hours.
Waiting for the work at the window tinting place to be done. It was a tight fit into their workshop!

Before leaving Peru, Mark noticed sparks in our engine, each time he started the car. Once in La Paz, he discovered corrosion in some of the ignition coils. He managed to clean and reinstall two of them, but one had to be replaced. Our options were to buy a low-quality coil locally for twice the price than a high-quality one in the US, or to pay heavy import duties when ordering what we wanted online. We decided to purchase one ignition coil in La Paz. At the moment, one more coil is broken, so we need another part… The good news is that we figured out the cause of the rust, yesterday.

Mark works on the engine

We finally bought a tire plug kit, in case we run into a puncture problem again (like that terrible incident in Colombia). We also took Thirsty to a carwash before leaving Cusco, paid for parking when needing the car close to our Airbnb, and handed over cash at a few restored toll booths. We had gotten away with not paying tolls in Peru for months, after protesters burned most of the stations down in early 2023.

Burned-down toll booth

Our grocery bill was above average, because we went on a couple of extensive shopping sprees, after finishing all the food from the fridge and making a dent in other provisions, before we stored our camper for three weeks. And, there were lots of homecooked dinners, among which two special ones over the holidays.

We did not buy any of these animal parts at the San Pedro Market in Cusco
Buying a big bread in the “bread capital of Peru” – it was too sweet for me
Buying more Parmesan at the cheese farm in Tinajani Canyon
Potluck dinner on New Year’s Eve
Meat was popular on New Year’s Eve!
Campfire on New Year’s Eve

We ate out quite a bit, having friends and family – and incredible restaurants – around, including a fabulous birthday dinner. Despite Griet and Wim’s generosity, we still spent more than usually in this category.

Fabulous – and fancy – birthday dinner at KusyKay in Cusco, ranked the #1 restaurant on Tripadvisor with a 5-star rating!
A nice and special touch
Taking Griet and Wim to our favorite vegetarian restaurant in Cusco, El Encuentro
Taking Katherine and Brandon to our favorite vegetarian restaurant in Cusco, El Encuentro
Mark’s fancy meal at Ofrenda: ossobuco
My fancy meal at Ofrenda: stuffed pepper
Dinner outside at La Cupula (Maya was not welcome inside the restaurant) in Copacabana
Dinner at a Greek restaurant in Copacabana – Mark’s meal of goulash
Dinner at a Greek restaurant in Copacabana – My meal of vegetarian lasagna

The next big and unexpected expense was a new smartphone for me. The day after my family arrived, we were strolling through downtown Cusco, ready to join a walking tour. Griet and I were chatting non-stop. In the excitement of the day and the company, I had forgotten to zip up the pocket of my sweater, which was wrapped around my waist. My phone was located in this pocket and skillfully removed from it by someone, without me noticing it.

My phone was stolen in this area, on a pedestrian stretch further down.

I couldn’t help but feel this robbery was my fault, despite being the victim and stealing being a crime. Of course, I should have zippered up! Instead of joining the Cusco Free Walking Tour, Mark, Maya, and I spent that afternoon at the main police office (a story for another day). Needless to say, I never retrieved my one-year-old Google Pixel 6a, of which I’d finally had the cracked screen replaced a month and a half prior. I was beyond bummed.

After one year, my badly cracked screen was replaced!

But, as “luck” would have it, my birthday was coming up and our Canadian friends, Sheri and Jeff, had another week at home, before meeting us in Peru. They joined forces with Mark and managed to find and bring me a new smartphone: A Pixel 7a. Mark surprised me with it, one day on a hike. Interestingly, while I’m super happy to have a good camera again, being without a phone for a month was somewhat liberating; I enjoyed taking less photos and not “having” to post them on Facebook; my main use for this device.

My new Google Pixel 7a smartphone

Our accommodation costs for last month included splitting an Airbnb in Cusco for a week with my cousin and her husband, storage for Thirsty Bella during that time, another few days of camping at Quinta Lala, and tipping a farmer in Tinajani Canyon to boondock on his land for three nights.

A repeat visit to Tinajani Canyon for a few quiet nights
Camped with Jeff and Sheri in Tinajani Canyon (Photo credit Sheri Ouellet)

December is the period of gifts. I created annual calendars with 13 photos of the two – or three – of us in exciting locations for family members in Belgium and the US, we bought a bottle of Baileys for Sheri and Jeff, whom we celebrated Christmas with for the second year in a row (on a funny side note, they happened to select the same bottle for me as a gift), and we ordered an electric heater for my mother-in-law as an early birthday present.

Jeff and Sheri got us stockings for Christmas!!
Sheri and I bought each other the same gift: a bottle of Baileys

Our alcohol expense seemed average – surprising, when celebrating the old and the new year with friends – but I have to add a note about the utilities category. We actually pay around $70 a month for our Starlink satellite internet subscription, but Mark realized that some of that fee should be put towards our business/freelance careers, hence the reduced amount of $35 for unlimited internet in this report and going forward. We also filled our propane tank, before leaving Cusco. This should last us three months.

Getting our propane tank filled at this place, before leaving Cusco – and Peru
Road closures in Cusco
One more drive in Cusco, dealing with lots of traffic and aggressive drivers

We paid for a rickety barge crossing of Lake Titicaca in Bolivia and frequently used taxis to get around in Cusco and La Paz. Plus, we enjoy(ed) taking the cable cars in La Paz. In cities, it is just safer – and less frustrating – to keep the vehicle parked at a secure location and get around with public transportation.

Taking the rickety barge across Lake Titicaca with Thirsty Bella
Barges are the only transportation across this channel
Crossing the isthmus of Lake Titicaca
The Blue cable cars in La Paz
Taking the cable car over La Paz
The Yellow Line above La Paz

The only real excursion we did in December was a strenuous hike on Isla del Sol in Lake Titicaca, leaving from Copacabana.

 

Some of the bays in Isla del Sol reminded me of the Mediterranean Sea.
Hiking on Isla del Sol with Sheri and Jeff
Leaving Isla del Sol from its biggest village, Yumani
The rim trail on the island went up and down for many miles.

I explored a few more ruins with my family around Cusco, but those were included in my 10-day tourist ticket, bought in November.

The archeological site of Tipon
The archeological site of Pikallaqta
My ten-day tourist ticket

Our friend, Jeff, and I also bicycled Death Road (aka “The World’s Most Dangerous Road”) on a long and exhausting, but fun, day trip from La Paz. I used gift money from my parents for that adventure. More about that in another post.

Our awesome biking group for Death Road
I’m ready for the most spectacular bike ride in the world – and the most dangerous one
Biking downhill on Death Road

The remaining categories were all under $20. We went out for a few drinks with friends, obtained meds from the pharmacy for my headaches, sore throat, and birth control, sourced a few items for the camper, bought two new camping chairs that were super affordable (the only negative, we discovered later, is that none of our glasses or stainless-steel water bottles fit in the cup holders), found a muzzle for Maya so she could join us in the cable cars of La Paz, and exchanged coins for toilet visits.

Buying two tasty and cheap fruit juices at a market, while waiting for the “window tinting”
A toast for my birthday with Griet
Our new camping chairs at Lake Titicaca
Maya is allowed on the cable car system, but only when wearing a muzzle

Crossing the border into Bolivia didn’t cost anything and once there (and at a beach south of Puno earlier), we wild camped for free again.

Camped with Sheri and Jeff at the beach of Moyapampa, Peru, along Lake Titicaca
Home in Copacabana, Bolivia, for a few days
Free camping on the edge of La Paz on Christmas Eve, before heading to the Las Lomas campground the next day

Our total for December was high again, around $1,900, but we are determined to begin 2024 on a lower budget. For once, we are off to a good start.

December 2023 Overview:

Car (fuel: $288; maint.: $271; ins.: $77; tolls: $5; parking: $5):

Groceries:

Computer hardware (smartphone L):

Dining out:

Accommodation (Airbnb: $115; camping: $35; storage: $20):

Gifts (calendars, heater, Baileys):

Alcohol:

Utilities (Starlink internet: $35; propane:$9):

Transportation (barge Titicaca, taxis Cusco & La Paz):

Entertainment (Isla del Sol):

Drinking out:

Medical (pharmacy):

Camper (silicone spray, zip ties):

Household (camping chairs):

Dog (muzzle):

Miscellaneous (toilet visits):

 

TOTAL:

 

$646

$337

$251

$180

$170

$110

$58

$44

$35

$23

$18

$17

$13

$13

$6

$1

———

$ 1,922

(It might be easier to read the table when turning your device in the horizontal position.)

Find all our expense reports here. To learn what other full-time nomads spend each month, check out the blogs of our vanlife friends Duwan and Greg at Make Like An Ape Man.

If you are enjoying these posts, please consider donating to Roaming About in support of our website and our lifestyle. A big thank you to all our readers who have helped out in the past!

Arequipa and Colca Canyon – Exploring Southern Peru in a Truck Camper

January 8, 2024 / / 22 Comments

After our crazy, stressful, and unexpected three-day “border run” to Bolivia, hoping to receive sixty extra days as a tourist in Peru (and eventually succeeding), Mark and I needed a quiet place to recover. Our next destination was Arequipa, but we were not in a rush.

Southern Peru
Visited Sites Southern Peru

First, we drove the three hours from the Kasani border to Puno, where we stocked up on groceries. Then, we continued for another two hours to a peaceful, remote lake, Laguna Sara Cocha, to rest and catch up on internet chores. Because the elevation was still quite high, at 13,800ft (4,200m), the nights were cold, so we couldn’t linger too long.

Welcome to Puno
Driving by Puno and its Lake Titicaca
Laguna Sara Cocha

Laguna Sara Cocha

When our trio arrived at the lake, we were happy to find a pretty, free camping spot, surrounded by alpacas and llamas. Perfect!

Camped for a couple of nights by Laguna Sara Cocha
Greeted by alpacas
This is llama and alpaca territory
Curious llamas and alpacas
Flamingos live at high elevations as well!

Imagine our surprise, when at 6am the next morning, a Sunday, we woke up to the sound of hundreds of cars driving by. If we wouldn’t know any better, we’d think we were parked next to a gravel highway! We were baffled by the commotion and brainstormed reasons as to why traffic had picked up so much. Did the inhabitants of the little hamlet nearby all go to church – in their own cars – in Puno? Nope. The cars were driving in the opposite direction, towards no-man’s land. A massive party in the middle of nowhere?

When vehicles surrounded Thirsty Bella and people got comfortable on blankets and in chairs near us, I inquired. Apparently, the annual car rally around the lake took place that day and spectators drove in early to pick good “podium seats”! Unbelievable. Our peace and rest would have to wait until the following day.

Camped close to the action
A car race in session

We embraced this unusual event and reveled in the families having fun on a Sunday morning and afternoon. By the end of the day, only garbage remained.

Laguna de Salinas

Continue reading

Monthly Expenses of a Nomad in South America – November 2023 (Peru)

December 23, 2023 / / 28 Comments

Expenses - image

Every month, I post a report of our expenses to show that it is possible to live a comfortable, exciting, and adventurous life without breaking the bank. The less money you spend, the less you need to make. 🙂

This report includes ALL of our expenses, in US$, for two adults and one 60-pound dog (we adopted Maya on June 4th, 2019). Under groceries we incorporate food, produce, and non-alcoholic drinks predominantly bought in supermarkets. Toiletries belong in that category as well. Dining out means eating at a restaurant/event or purchasing take-out food. The health category covers non-prescription medicines and vitamins/supplements; medical contains prescription drugs and doctor’s visits. Because of our income level, Mark and I are eligible for free health care within the state of Massachusetts. For check-ups and extensive care, we return to the US East Coast. Other health issues are resolved locally  and out of pocket where needed and possible.

In November 2023, Mark, dog Maya, and I explored the southern part of Peru in our truck camper, Thirsty Bella. These last two months have been extremely busy and overwhelming, hence my delayed expense report.

We drove a lot, from Arequipa to Colca Canyon and then back to Cusco and the Sacred Valley, to meet family from Belgium. Yet, our car was not the highest expense category, last month. That honor went to Mark’s new computer and a few “accessories.”

The main square in Arequipa
Part of the main “highway” from Arequipa to Cusco!
Most of the burned-down tollbooths haven’t been re-instated yet.
Maya sniffing along the drive

A couple of months ago, I wrote that Mark’s laptop (needed daily for work) kept crashing. We were trying to figure out how to send his Surface back to the US and get it replaced under warranty. Being in Peru made this impossible, so we went a different route.

We are very fortunate to have a lot of (accommodating) friends. Two of them returned from the US and had space in their luggage. So, Mark ordered a new laptop, which Rodney and Heather brought back to Cusco in November. My cousin and her husband flew back to Belgium via the US and managed to drop off the broken one at a UPS box in one of the airports. A new Surface should be waiting for us whenever Mark returns to the US on his annual visit. This spare laptop will probably become mine at some point. We also needed a new router, hard drive, and Windows Office key for the arrived laptop.

Some of the packages brought back to us in Cusco by Rodney and Heather

The car category – especially gas – was high again; no surprise there. Gasoline is expensive in Peru, our truck has awful fuel economy (10mpg), and we covered big distances on steep, gravel roads. We also paid for parking a bunch and our friends brought specialty grease back from the US. But no tolls had to be paid.

Driving through the Andes Mountains
The rain is turning some roads into mud
Road to Santa Teresa

Another extra expense last month (and this one) was accommodation. My cousin, Griet, and her husband, Wim, came for a multiple-week vacation to Peru, some of which to the Cusco area. I’d booked hotels and Airbnbs ahead of time and we split the accommodation costs for sixteen nights.

Our hotel in Santa Teresa
Our tiny, basic room in Santa Teresa
What’s wrong with this bathroom?

In the meantime, Mark and I left Bella at the Quinta Lala campground in Cusco and we used the truck to travel between sites and hotels. Sometimes, we parked Thirsty in fenced lots in towns, other nights, we put him next to Bella at the campground. Before my family arrived and a few nights afterwards, the three of us stayed at Quinta Lala in our camper.

Camped at Quinta Lala campground in Cusco
Homemade dinner with Rodney and Heather at the campground
Driving around in our truck

I will write about the visit from Griet and Wim later, but I will admit now that we didn’t have the best experiences with our lodgings. Every night, there was something that kept us awake, resulting in a couple of very exhausting weeks. We surely missed our home on wheels!

Boondocked in Arequipa
Boondocked in Chivay
Boondocked at the Uyo Uyo ruins
Boondocked for a couple of nights at the condor viewpoint along Colca Canyon
Boondocked along the long drive back to Cusco

We did our best to save money on other nights, by boondocking (wild camping) in nature, and enjoyed natural hot springs instead of developed termales.

Free natural hot springs
Free natural bath tub in Chivay

Since we stayed in hotels for one third of last month, we ate out a lot, upping that category. Griet and Wim were very generous visitors, treating for dinner often. Yet, this cost ended up higher than usually.

Part of a Peruvian day dish at a local restaurant in Arequipa
Cheap and tasty day dish in Cabanaconde
These day lunches come with a soup, a “segundo” (main course), and a refresca (drink)
A tasty Poke Bowl dinner at the highly recommended Teriyaki restaurant, one of our favorites in Cusco
Dinner at our favorite vegetarian restaurant, El Encuentro, in Cusco
Pizza for dinner in Ollantaytambo
Birthday dinner in Santa Teresa
Lasagna B-day dinner

Which lead to our grocery category being on the low end, at well under $200. We cooked much less, which meant no dishes and less time spent in the kitchen!

Eggplant Parmesan, cooked in our tiny oven
Maya loves lettuce!
Bakery in Chivay
Produce market in Chivay
Maya is our composter

Mark, Maya, and I visited Colca Canyon, for which there is an entrance fee of 70 soles (US$20) per person. This boleto turistico (tourist ticket) allows access to condor viewpoints, a hike into the canyon (which we didn’t do), and a few other sites. I’ll write about these excursions in my next blog post.

Colca Canyon
Pinchollo Geyser near Colca Canyon
Uyo Uyo Archeological Site near Colca Canyon
Juanita Museum in Cabanaconde
Looking for condors in the Colca Canyon
Condor
Viewpoint in Cabanaconde

To save money – and since we had already (briefly) toured the Sacred Valley – we only bought one ten-day tourist ticket for when my family arrived. I joined them at some of the archeological sites (new ones and revisits to others), while Mark did the driving, waiting, and working.

Griet, Liesbet, and Maya at the lower part of the Q’enqo Archeological Site in Cusco
Sacsaywauman Archeological Site in Cusco
Tambomachay Archeological Site near Cusco
Hike from the Pisac Archeological Site to Pisac town
Moray Archeological Site

All of us did visit Machu Picchu, the end of November, which lived up to its fame and popularity. For this excursion, Griet and Wim arose early on our first day in Aguas Calientes (“base camp” for MP); Mark and I explored this site on the second morning, while my family watched Maya. More about that later as well.

Sign in Aguas Caliente
The iconic Machu Picchu photo

As always when we have family – and friends – around, the alcohol expense goes up. Good times were had by all, which was a nice change to our regular lifestyle.

Rum tasting at our first Airbnb in Cusco

Our Starlink satellite internet fee is roughly the same every month, based on the exchange rate. We didn’t use it as much these last two months when staying at hotels and the campground, where WiFi was present, but, being back on the road now, we still love this installation and investment!

Not living in our truck camper also meant we needed to use public transportation, like taxis and Uber, quite a bit, especially in Cusco, heading back up the hill to Quinta Lala to pick up the truck or when we were camped there. Plus, the 20-minute bus ride to Machu Picchu (a monopoly) was expensive at US$14 each way. I bought a return ticket and Mark hiked down the steep steps after our visit.

Masses of tour buses for the ride to Machu Picchu

Flea collars went on sale in the US, so we bought one online for Maya and will pick it up in Massachusetts one day. Mark and I went out for drinks with friends and family a few times, Rodney and Heather also brought back an urgently needed 12-volt vacuum cleaner from the US for us (required to dry out our ceiling after fixing a couple of leaking holes in our roof; our old one had died), I bought a Pachamama (Mother Earth) statue at one of the sites (which Griet took back to Belgium for me) and we managed to drop off all our dirty laundry in Arequipa for a decent price.

Beer tasting for the men on a rainy day, at the cerveceria del Valle Sagrado (brewery) near Ollantaytambo
Fabulous drinks at the Teriyaki restaurant
Pina colada cocktails for happy hour on my birthday
Immediately putting our new vacuum cleaner to good use

In conclusion, November was another expensive month for us at over $2,000, because of the extra expenses (Mark’s new computer, our accommodation costs, pricey Machu Picchu, extra transportation, and Maya’s meds). I’d like to say that this month will be better, but it has mainly been an extension of the previous one. Maybe, we will do better next year?

November 2023 Overview:

Computer (new laptop, hard drive, router, Office key);

Car (fuel: $314; maint.: $22; parking: $13):

Accommodation (hotels: $215; camping: $86; storage: $35):

Dining out:

Groceries:

Entertainment (MP: $82; Colca Canyon: $37; ruins: $35):

Alcohol:

Utilities (Starlink internet):

Transportation (taxi & bus MP):

Dog (flea collar):

Drinking out:

Household (12V vacuum cleaner):

Miscellaneous (souvenirs):

Laundry:

 

TOTAL:

 

$491

$349

$336

$186

$176

$154

$94

$71

$63

$58

$37

$32

$16

$10

———

$ 2,073

(It might be easier to read the table when turning your device in the horizontal position.)

Find all our expense reports here. To learn what other full-time nomads spend each month, check out the blogs of our vanlife friends Duwan and Greg at Make Like An Ape Man.

If you are enjoying these posts, please consider donating to Roaming About in support of our website and our lifestyle. A big thank you to all our readers who have helped out in the past!

Two Highlights in Peru: Pallcoyo Colored Mountains and the Reed Islands of Uros in Titicaca Lake

November 21, 2023 / / 34 Comments

After we departed the Sacred Valley and Cusco, we had less than two weeks left in Peru, so we headed towards the border with Bolivia, slowly. The idea was to obtain another 60 days or more to meet up with family from Belgium and friends from Canada back in Cusco, the end of November.

Laguna de Huacarpay

Our first night heading east was spent along a small and peaceful lake, enjoyed by local families that Sunday afternoon. The night was relatively quiet, until we were awakened by knocks on the side of the camper at 5am. It was a Peruvian man asking us if anyone else had been camped here in a tent last night. Not that we knew, but why was that important enough to wake up two gringos? We will never know.

A popular campsite for dogs during the weekend
Laguna Huacarpay

Pallcoyo Colored Mountains

Then, we headed to what would become our favorite destination in this country to date. It was a tough one to get to. From the moment we turned off the main road and onto the one-lane side track, we had to back up for three tour vans. We figured in the afternoon, it would be quieter; hence our late start… These were tourists heading back to Cusco at 3pm, after two hours of driving down the mountain.

Luckily, we didn’t encounter anyone else on our way up this narrow, tricky road. After an hour of exercising steel nerves and concentration, we pulled over along the river. Our only company some locals passing by on motorcycles or cars, but mostly a shepherd and her flock of sheep, llamas, and alpacas.

Narrow road driving up the mountain
Camped among sheep, llamas, and alpacas
Curious llama
Our riverside camping spot for a few nights
Maya loves splashing in the water
The mountain river next to our campsite

The following day had one purpose: watch the traffic patterns on this tight, gravel road (to use that information for our drive to the top – and back down) and figure out if we would take the camper up or just the truck (leaving our home behind for half a day again). Or, to hitch a ride or pay our way with a tour van, which would mean less flexibility and a bigger crowd.

After deciding to take our entire truck camper up, we left at 6:30am to arrive at Pallcoyo Mountain, also called Three Colored Mountains or Three Rainbow Mountains, an hour later. I was impressed by the scenery along the way. It was as if we were driving through a nature documentary in the Andes Mountains (we were!) – stunning terraces, bucolic scenes like a kid tending to a donkey and a Quechua woman carrying a lamb in a bag on her back that jumped out as we passed, and spectacular yet barren mountain sides at this high elevation.

Leaving with the first light
Making our way up the mountain, along terraced fields
Before we reach the real Colored Mountains
Signing in and paying our entrance fees
Thirsty Bella among colorful mountains
Continue reading

Monthly Expenses of a Nomad in South America – October 2023 (Peru)

November 13, 2023 / / 40 Comments

Expenses - image

Every month, I post a report of our expenses to show that it is possible to live a comfortable, exciting, and adventurous life without breaking the bank. The less money you spend, the less you need to make. 🙂

This report includes ALL of our expenses, in US$, for two adults and one 60-pound dog (we adopted Maya on June 4th, 2019). Under groceries we incorporate food, produce, and non-alcoholic drinks predominantly bought in supermarkets. Toiletries belong in that category as well. Dining out means eating at a restaurant/event or purchasing take-out food. The health category covers non-prescription medicines and vitamins/supplements; medical contains prescription drugs and doctor’s visits. Because of our income level, Mark and I are eligible for free health care within the state of Massachusetts. For check-ups and extensive care, we return to the US East Coast. Other health issues are resolved locally  and out of pocket where needed and possible.

In October 2023, Mark, dog Maya, and I explored the southern part of Peru in our truck camper, Thirsty Bella. It was another expensive, above-average month, but, luckily, much cheaper than the previous one. Peru has been hard on our budget. To be honest, we were ready to leave after our allocated three months, but due to (fun) commitments, we added another sixty days and lots more driving (and fuel costs) in this country to our schedule.

Drive to the Bolivian border to receive more time in Peru
Needing to drive to a second border of Peru with Bolivia – in vain…
Customs truck in Khasani, a border between Peru and Bolivia

Therefore, the highest category – again – was the car, more precisely, fuel. Peru is huge, gasoline costs about $5 a gallon, and we are driving more than ever to cover distances and timelines.

Gas station sign
Stopped by another fuel station
Fuel prices
Fuel station price list
Filling up with gasoline again
The fuel pump rain out, so we had to wait until there was gasoline again.

We also spent money on maintenance for our Ford F350 by getting an oil change done in Cusco, which was a bit of a disaster I wrote about here. We ordered car parts in the US, which our Canadian friends will bring back to us early December. And we had the valve of our spare tire replaced.

Oil change in Cusco
Getting the leaking valve of our spare tire replaced for $3

The tolls were very affordable, because many of the booths were still in disrepair after being burned down during political protests in the beginning of this year.

Burned-down toll booth

Our grocery and alcohol costs were pretty average, but two extra categories were added in Cusco. Mark arranged his expensive visa for Bolivia there, which took a full day (story here) and, because we had a bunch of camper and car projects to complete (and we were sick), we stayed at a pay campground for nine days. We also handed over money at two parking lots in the Sacred Valley that allowed us to camp.

Our favorite bakery in Cusco
Visit to the Bolivian consulate in Cusco
Popular campground in Cusco
Doing projects at the campground
Wiring up our Starlink antenna
Parked for the night in Ollantaytambo – photo taken from the archeological site
Parked for the night in Chinchero

The rest of the month, we boondocked for free around the Sacred Valley, the Andes Mountains, and the Peruvian countryside.

Camped close to the Pisac ruins
Camped on the edge of downtown Cusco
Parked for the night by Laguna Huacarpay
Camped by a river along the dirt road up to Three Colored Mountains
Parked for the night at a viewpoint along Lake Titicaca
Camped in Tinajani Canyon for a few nights
Camped on the edge of Puno for a couple of nights
Camped on a beach of Lake Titicaca
Parked for one frigid night at Laguna Salinas (over 14,000ft or 4,300m)

Mark and I ate out a few times – Cusco has good and diverse restaurants, and day menus for lunch everywhere are filling and affordable – but kept that total amount under $100.

Sangria with a vegetarian dinner out with friends
Main dish of a typical local lunch menu in Cusco
Main dish of the lunch menu in Urubamba
Day menu lunches include a soup, a main dish (“segundo”), and a drink, either some kind of cold juice or lemonade, or hot tea

We also topped off our propane tank in October and paid our monthly subscription fee for Starlink, our satellite internet solution, which has been awesome. After installing the dish permanently in our camper, we can now not only get online 24/7, but we also manage to listen to music (Spotify) while driving in the middle of nowhere and rely on the GPS/Google Maps more. This monthly fee hovers around $70, affected by the exchange rate.

Starlink is permanently installed under an existing hatch in the camper
Driving by Laguna Salinas, listening to music
Driving in the mountains, listening to music

Since the Sacred Valley and Cusco area have a lot of interesting sites, our entertainment spending went up. Most of this expense covered our two-day tourist ticket to see the archeological sites of Pisac, Ollantaytambo, Moray, and Chinchero.

Ollantaytambo Archeological Site
Pisac Archeological Site
Moray Archeological Site
Chinchero Archeological Site

We also paid for a visit to the salt mine of Maras and the colored mountains of Pallcoyo. When reaching Titicaca Lake, we enjoyed a guided boat tour to the floating reed islands of Uros. More about those two incredible excursions in an upcoming post.

Maras salt pans
Three Colored Mountains (Pallcoyo)
Exploring the stone forest at Pallcoyo
Reed islands of Uros
Guided boat tour through the islands of Uros

Mark ordered a few parts for the camper as well (coming with our friends), we had to pay the annual fee for one of our website addresses, Maya was due for a vaccine, which was administered at a vet in Puno, and I forgot to bring pain medicine on our prolonged trip to the Bolivian consulate, so had to buy extra Tylenol at a pharmacy when my head acted up.

Driving through the Andes Mountains in Peru

One of the reasons Mark and I set out on this South American journey is its perceived affordability. Unfortunately, we do not succeed to stay under our American expense average at the moment, so this has to change. We have been able to work more than usually, but none of this is fun, of course, and it would be nice to eat out or splurge more in cheaper countries. Plus, there always seems to be an unexpected expense… What’s the solution? Stay put longer in places and drive less? Leave Peru? Time will tell.

Driving to Pallcoyo Mountain

October 2023 Overview:

Car (fuel: $400; maint.: $160; tolls: $2):

Groceries:

Customs & Immigration (Bolivia visa Mark):

Camping:

Dining out:

Utilities (internet: $68; propane: $8):

Entertainment:

Camper:

Alcohol:

Miscellaneous (souvenir):

Computer (hosting site):

Dog (DHCPP vaccine):

Medical (Tylenol):

 

TOTAL:

 

$562

$264

$160

$111

$83

$76

$66

$63

$43

$28

$22

$17

$6

———

$ 1,501

(It might be easier to read the table when turning your device in the horizontal position.)

Find all our expense reports here. To learn what other full-time nomads spend each month, check out the blogs of our vanlife friends Duwan and Greg at Make Like An Ape Man.

If you are enjoying these posts, please consider donating to Roaming About in support of our website and our lifestyle. A big thank you to all our readers who have helped out in the past!

Older posts

© 2024 Roaming About

Theme by Anders Noren — Up ↑