The negative about writing these blog posts three months after the facts means that I don’t remember all the details. Like when I’m behind with my diary for a few days – which often happens. A positive – in case of the diaries anyway – is that I don’t remember all the details. So, instead of an hour, such an entry takes half an hour to write. 😊
Pretty mountain drive
All this being said, I remember Mark and I wanted to do something different after leaving the sinkholes of Las Gachas: driving to the municipality of Paipa across the mountains, via dirt roads. Why is this such a big deal? Because there is no information available about secondary, or tertiary, routes in Colombia.
(As always, hover over or click on photos in galleries to read their captions.)
A lot of rain falls in this country, causing landslides every day. Our thoroughfare might be blocked by fallen trees, piles of dirt, rocks, or other objects. Or, the road might be gone, crumbled down a cliff. In other cases, the streets might be too narrow or low due to overhanging trees. Our truck camper Thirsty Bella is big. In Colombia it’s not an issue of “When will we get there,” like in other countries, but “Will we be able to get there or do we have to turn around hours into the voyage?” Such is the kind of adventures we embark on these months.
After quickly visiting Guadalupe, filling our fuel tank, backtracking over the narrow, potholed road to the main “highway,” following that south for a couple of hours, and turning off for the rough “shortcut,” we reached Gambita. We descended into this small town, still in the department of Santander, after asking locals if our rig could navigate the narrow streets. It could. Barely.
The main attraction of this area is the Manto de la Virgen waterfall, another 9km east of the village. Would we push through (we had read we could camp at that tourist attraction) or call it quits for the day after our sandwich lunch?
Since we have all the time in the world – this is our lifestyle after all – we decided to remain parked at the square for the night. We walked around town mid-afternoon on this Saturday and, to our horror, discovered a wedding would soon take place at the church, right across from Bella. Would people shoot off fireworks? We could still leave…
Against better judgment, we stayed. Soon, we were closed in by parked cars and merry, smartly dressed people everywhere. We could listen to the service from inside our home. As it came to an end, we saw a man walking up with three sticks in his hands. Before we could say “fireworks,” the explosions went off, mere feet from our camper. Maya spent another night with us in bed, shaking and hiding behind our pillows. The wedding party did leave the square, but the house of the festivities must have been located close by…
Ironic sign: fireworks are illegal in the department of Santander
The next day, still not in a rush, we continued our slow drive on the dirt road to Manto de la Virgen. We arrived around noon, got the spiel about the trail and camping (very pricey for what it was), and had lunch inside. We had hoped to do the hike the following morning, to start before the sun reached its peak and without the Sunday crowds.
But, due to the higher-than-expected camping rate, we decided to leave the same day. Therefore, we had to attempt the hour-long, steep climb of the mountain in the heat of the day and among a group of Colombian tourists. This was still vacation time for some.
I huffed and puffed, sweating profusely, and soon felt a headache approach. Mark and Maya went ahead to search for a second viewpoint (which appeared too far away) and we met at the river from which this spectacular waterfall emerges. Time for a break!
The trek down, while less strenuous, was still hard on my head – needing to keep it down to see where I was stepping – and my knees. But, again, it had been an experience worth the effort and pain. Now, our main concern was finding a different place to camp. And soon, because my nausea and migraine couldn’t handle much more bouncing.
Our family in front of the majestic falls
Our alternative spot in iOverlander, a lush riverside camping area by a finca (farm), didn’t work out either, once we saw the access road had a steep ditch in it. The bottom back of our camper would scrape the incline, so the finca was a no-go. Luckily, we did see a relatively level spot to pull off the gravel road, which had to do for the night.
Parked for the night along the Gambita- Palermo road
The next stop was Palermo, where we parked by the square under construction. This appeared to be another overnight potential, but we wanted to get a decent number of bumpy miles under our wheels that day, so just stopped to search for a waterfall Mark had noticed on Google Maps.
We asked the locals, received directions, and did not see any signposts. Eventually, we were met by a river, a questionable footbridge, and the roar of another awesome waterfall. All to ourselves.
We spent another day on the dirt road, doing a maximum speed of 5 miles per hour (the automatic lock system of our doors was never engaged), enjoying the peaceful scenery and barely meeting another soul. Which was great, as the road was mostly a one-lane affair. It’s all about expectations and not being in a hurry!
We reached the city of Paipa – and an out-of-the-way, cut-down-a-low-branch-to-get-there free lakeside camping spot – before nightfall. We had arrived in the department of Boyaca, which we were told is a peaceful one. Sure enough, the firework occurrences eased. It was the middle of January.
On the trail along Sochacota lake, Maya met baby cows that were very cute. We contemplated staying two nights and walking the hour-long trail to town for some shopping, but eventually moved on the following morning. We had errands to run in the metropolises of Duitama (registering our phones and getting onto the local Claro cell network, since Google Fi would kick us off the end of the month) and Sogamoso (dealing with extension paperwork for our car, which failed this time around).
We stopped for one night at the square of friendly and cute Tibasosa, which we learned is the feijoa capital of the world. Mark and I tried a liqueur of this interesting fruit and later its flesh as well. I’m a fan! We enjoyed strolling around as the only gringos. This was definitely not a busy town!
A little side trip brought us to the pleasant village of Mongui, which contains houses permanently decorated in the Christmas colors. We have now encountered so many colorful, historic squares, yet they are all somewhat different; I still don’t tire of strolling these attractive streets and taking photos.
What I remember vividly about Mongui is that we finally decided to treat ourselves to a coffee/juice and crêpe at a coffee shop, something we never do. It was relaxing, delicious, and affordable. We heard a ticking sound on the roof, wondering if it had to do with the ventilation to the kitchen. When we started seeing people with umbrellas outside the door, we realized we were witnessing a massive rain storm! Of course, we immediately questioned if we closed all our windows and especially the top hatches… So, Mark ran off and got soaked, while Maya and I waited out the downpour. The hatches had all been closed.
From Mongui, we made a small detour to Topaga for one reason only: to witness a rarity in a church, namely the depiction of the devil. Again, we stumbled upon a cute little square surrounded by pretty buildings.
Since we had been moving daily for quite some time, all of us had looked forward to a few days of peace alongside Laguna de Tota, still in Boyaca. We aimed for a pretty spot down a long, dirt road next to a church. The bugs weren’t too bad and the nights were quiet. What we didn’t count on was the frigid temperatures at this new altitude of 10,000ft. Once again, we had no opportunity to sit outside in our chairs. We hadn’t done this for weeks, ever since our friends left.
But there were plenty of gravel paths to follow with Maya. Those offered views of the lake and the crops – spring onions – in the abundant fields. Sometimes, a local dog would come along for the hikes. During the weekend, La Vaca (The Cow) garnered a lot of attention from Colombians who’d driven out to this peninsula to investigate the view and the church. We practiced our Spanish and – for the first time ever – were super surprised when someone opened the door to our camper while we were inside. He had thought it was a movie trailer…
Before leaving this relatively remote area, we made one more stop, in Iza, to soak in hot springs. We had read we could camp by Piscina Erika and buy day passes for a reasonable price. This allowed us to soak in the commercial “spring,” which was more like a swimming pool. I repeated this activity in the morning and realized that soaking in hot water is one of the most popular pastimes for Colombians! The showers on the premises were the most freezing of our lives.
From our parking spot by the building, it was a ten-minute walk to the center of Iza. We took advantage of that to visit yet another historic town with pretty buildings and awesome desserts. When we hit the road again towards a popular Colombian destination, Villa de Leyva, we had no idea we would find our favorite pueblo patrimonio.
What is your favorite Colombian town from this collection?
Curious about a previous ten-year chapter in our nomadic lives, which includes eight years aboard a 35-foot sailboat in the tropics with dogs, check out my compelling, inspiring, and refreshingly honest travel memoir:
March 28, 2023 at 10:29
Wow! Enjoyed this entry immensely! The falls and the cities and the churches and the differing scenery. What an adventure! Seems Maya is very happy
In spite of those dastardly fireworks! Small prices to pay for spending time seeing all the beautiful this earth provides!
Stay safe and warm and keep writing and snapping these wonderful photos! Thank you for sharing. I always bring updates on your travels to our book club. Be well, all❣️❣️
Carol Sue
April 4, 2023 at 21:14
Hi Carol,
Thank you for continuing to follow along on our adventures and for reporting back to your book club. It is appreciated.
It seems like the worst of the fireworks has passed. Maybe some more this coming weekend over Easter. We will see.
Colombia is a diverse country with beautiful mountain scenery and equally attractive historic towns. I’m hoping to show some more of both the coming months. It’s been a fabulous adventure so far!
March 28, 2023 at 10:32
So much to comment on here. Love the picture of Maya and the cow. I noticed you were squatting (not sitting) outside the customs office. I spent a good bit of time researching that for my books (that early people, pre-chairs, squatted not sat). The towns look loved and cared for.
April 4, 2023 at 21:18
Hi Jacqui,
Yes, the historic towns are well taken care of. Colombians are very proud in general, yet, there is a lot of trash around certain areas still. The plethora of historic villages in this country and how they all differ will stay with me for a long time. They attract us.
Usually, the ground and floors are too dirty to sit on, so squatting is the way to go. I remember reading about your research regarding this habit. 🙂
March 28, 2023 at 11:29
As an occasional migraine sufferer, I felt for you, imagining you getting tossed around on those bumpy roads. I literally spend 3-4 hours in a dark room and CAN’T MOVE. That must have been horrid.
April 4, 2023 at 21:23
Hi Pete,
I’m so glad you are sharing your migraine experience with me, because I’ve never talked to anyone suffering from the same condition since this started for me, about a decade ago. What brings it on for you?
And, yes, like you, I have to spend 3-4 hours in bed, ideally in the dark and without noise around, before the pain and nausea starts to ease a bit.
On that dirt road, we had to stop as soon as possible, but – in true Colombian fashion – there is rarely room to pull over along roads, let alone to camp. Luckily, we did find a decent spot about half an hour into the bouncing, which was hell.
April 5, 2023 at 14:01
I also suffer from migraines, but fortunately not often. I don’t know how you kept going, Liesbet, because like Pete, I crawl into bed, no lights/sound, and I can’t move my head or eyes for hours. It’s a scary experience. Hope you don’t experience this often.
April 5, 2023 at 15:32
Hi Pam,
I usually can anticipate these migraines, as they are related to exerting myself. They are worse at higher altitudes or when the sun is out or it’s humid and I sweat a lot. Each time we plan on hiking, I have to weigh if the destination and the views are worth the migraine. As I’m getting older, the migraines also increase in frequency and discomfort. Only recently have I made decisions to not join Mark and Maya on strenuous hikes when I didn’t think the view would be worth it.
I don’t know how I keep dealing with it, especially when I don’t get the chance to just rest. It’s a bit like me sailing for eight years while getting seasick. How much pain and nausea is an experience worth?
April 7, 2023 at 07:57
Good question. Thus, I never go on boat rides (horribly seasick, even on a dock). And migraines, I believe, are our body telling us (making us) stop. xo
April 7, 2023 at 21:09
Wise decision about not going on boat rides, Pam! I often wonder how on earth I could have ever sailed for eight years, and the mere thought of seasickness and nausea makes me never want to do such an adventure again. For now.
About the migraines, mine always come after the fact – the exertion – when it’s too late. The act is done and I didn’t stop in time. 🙁
March 28, 2023 at 12:57
Hi Liesbet! Wow! Once again you’ve seen some beautiful landscapes as your adventures continue. I do enjoy seeing all the different places you encounter and reading about your challenges…mainly so I NEVER have to :–) Plus I like hearing from you just to know you’re still doing well. ~Kathy
April 4, 2023 at 21:27
Hi Kathy,
I’m glad you are enjoying these updates still. Although, my reporting is lagging behind here on Roaming About. I just don’t often have time to commit hours to creating a blog post. Yet, it’s what I’d like to do more often. Life on the road is busy! 🙂
I think people visiting Colombia the mainstream way don’t encounter as many challenges, but I it’s probably more expensive. That being said, I do hope I can encourage some of my readers to explore this amazing country one day. I can’t wait to share more photos with you and others!
March 28, 2023 at 13:22
Impossible to pick a favorite. They are all so different and interesting in their own way. Loved the waterfalls, the cow with Maya, and that awesome plate of pastries. Those trees in Topaga look like icecream cones.
April 4, 2023 at 21:30
Hi Suzanne,
I had a hard time picking a favorite historic town as well, during the first months of our Colombian travels. Now, I have picked two, none of which are mentioned in this post. 🙂
I love the diversity of this country and can’t believe that we only have one month left before we have to move on…
March 28, 2023 at 13:46
What beautiful scenery, and I love the architecture in those square! I’m also struck by the juxtaposition of the primitive roads and facilities, and the sophisticated presentation of your ever-so-yummy-looking crepes. Colombia certainly seems to be a place of contradictions. 🙂
April 4, 2023 at 21:33
Hi Diane!
You have a very keen eye when it comes to the intricacies of Colombia. Many contradictions, for sure! And there is, literally, an adventure or experience around every corner, especially when we are driving.
Initially, we only ate Colombian food (greasy) and pastries (super sweet) out, but once we entered the more touristy regions and towns, we have been able to splurge with more delicious – and healthy – foods!
March 28, 2023 at 14:07
Hi, Liesbet, Mark and Maya – I agree that it is impossible to choose a favourite town featured in this post. I also agree that a positive perspective and not being in a hurry are essential agreements to life! Wonderful post!
April 4, 2023 at 21:35
Hi Donna,
I’m glad that you enjoyed this post. I hope I’m not cramming too much into each edition, because there is sooooo much to see and do and experience in this country, which is diverse and still extremely pleasing after five months. 🙂
Enjoy your blogging break!!
March 28, 2023 at 14:16
Well, I’m a bit exhausted just reading about your travels in this post. Fireworks, rain, narrow and bad roads and headaches. Damn, kinda sounds like one of our weeks 🤪 I enjoyed the photos of all the town squares. They all look so beautiful and different.I think my favorite is the square of Topaga. I marvel at your adventurous spirit and willingness to persevere and keep moving. After our trip driving to Alaska we have had to slow down to recuperate. Hope you two have the same opportunity. 😊. Jim
April 4, 2023 at 21:40
Hi Jim,
Actually, when you sum our life up like that particular sentence, it can be a tough life on the road. And, it is. I was actually thinking about your Alaska posts, where you’ve had similar combos thrown at you. But then, I think about all those amazing landscape photos you’ve been posting on Living in Beauty, and I smile again. As those shots remind me of the beautiful and positive parts of Colombia.
I agree that recuperation is needed after months of extensive travel. Luckily, we are able to explore very slowly – especially compared to other overlanders in the region – which allows us to take a breather once in a while. On those days, however, we always have a lot of computer and internet chores to catch up on. I crave doing nothing and reading a book one day! 🙂
March 28, 2023 at 14:43
Colombia seems very quiet. Maybe its just that there isn’t many cars or people in your photos. Or maybe that their buildings aren’t quite as colorful as buildings are in Mexico.
I love the mountains! What lovely views. And, of course, I love that you have been taking the road less traveled!
All the towns are cute but I think I like the church and artwork in Tibasosa. And since they are the world capital of something – feijoa, I will have to go there someday. What does feijoa taste like?
And I like the lake. I want to go camp next to a lake for a while.
Interesting about the phone registration. I wonder if you ever lost your phone(s) this registration would help in finding them.
I hope the fireworks have finally stopped for a while. Poor Maya. I hope her claw is healing and growing back.
I hope you guys are well, and Thirsty Bella is doing fine!
April 4, 2023 at 21:49
Hi Duwan,
If there is one thing that Colombia is not, it’s quiet. That being said, I think that Mexico is louder, still. But, Mexico has more public land or nature where you could escape into and camp in peace. I just realized today – since we are camped by a lake again, where it’s quiet at night – that in these five months, this is only the third spot where we have slept more than five hours in a row!
It’s hard to describe what feijoa tastes like. Nothing like we are used to in our western fruits. Maybe a crossing between a guava and a kiwi? I like it okay but have since found a better-tasting favorite: picaya or dragonfruit. 🙂
The thing about camping by the lakes in Colombia, so far, is that they are located at high elevations and it’s chilly! We have yet to sit outside in our chairs or wear shorts and T-shirts. Plus, the mosquitoes can be bad as well. These months, we spend all our down time inside. Partly because we do so much street/urban camping.
We are all doing well, including Maya. Other than being a pain in the ass anyway. 🙂
March 28, 2023 at 21:51
I loved all of these towns and all of the waterfalls. Oh, wait. Maybe if I go and visit them all it will be easier to decide…
April 4, 2023 at 21:52
Hi Margie,
Come on over! Colombia will not disappoint. Since visiting all these towns and waterfalls months ago, we’ve explored much more territory and are developing some favorites. 🙂
March 29, 2023 at 16:19
All the towns are pretty, but I like the waterfalls the best!
April 4, 2023 at 21:54
So, you are a nature buff, Anabel! I prefer scenery over architecture in general, especially if that’s where the camping takes place. But, being able to walk into a cute town for some fresh pastries or baguettes has its charm as well. 🙂
March 31, 2023 at 15:56
This all seems SO much better than your time in the big cities. It’s all so pretty and scenic and adventurous! THIS is why you did what you did and went through all those hassles. Sure, there are challenges, but it’s so worth it to see these views, meet these locals, and experience these off the beaten path spots. Awesome!
April 4, 2023 at 21:56
Hi Laura,
You’re hitting the nail on the head. I’m super happy now that we persevered, as I’m sure you two are about your lifestyle change and move. I guess being determined pays off in the end. Colombia has been amazing. Yes, it’s a true adventure, but those are often the most rewarding. 🙂
April 1, 2023 at 10:43
Certainly many beautiful areas you’ve visited, Liesbet! Just a quick hello before the wedding festivities begin today! Hugs to Maya and Mark!
April 4, 2023 at 21:57
Hi Terri,
Thanks for swinging by! A return hello from me. Enjoy the festivities, proud mama! 🙂
April 1, 2023 at 13:32
Colombia has so much to offer. Glad you are discovering some of our favorite places!
April 4, 2023 at 21:59
Hi Susan!
It would be interesting to find out what your top five, or top ten, attractions/pueblos/natural sights are in Colombia. I’m playing with the idea of writing either a wrap-up post or a highlights post whenever we leave the country. I’ll add it to those other twenty blog posts that are still in the cue!
April 2, 2023 at 07:30
Oh no! to the fireworks at that wedding, but a big yes to all those beautiful waterfalls. I can imagine standing under one having a shower, although the water would probably knock me to the ground. What great finds, though, Liesbet.
And I love all the pretty colourful squares and how they seem all unique in their own way.
And it’s good to treat yourselves every now and again with coffee and crepes. Enjoy!
April 4, 2023 at 22:03
Hi Hugh,
In Colombia, we have learned how to treat ourselves once in a while, because life is so affordable here. One of my favorite things to do is park close to an attractive town and walk to the a bakery that has baguettes and pastries in the morning. The downside is that town camping is usually very noisy, so not much sleep is had.
In the past, we have showered under waterfalls. Mexico comes to mind. But in Colombia, we haven’t had the opportunity yet, either because the water is too cold, inaccessible, or crowded.
We will miss this country once we leave in a month!
April 3, 2023 at 20:27
Wow, who could pick a fav? Looks like quite the journey and I’ll bet those desert nights were cold! About the journaling, you may not always have time to write, but you should always jot down notes in a notebook to remind yourself of places or things you want to talk about. You can always elaborate on them later when you have time. <3
April 4, 2023 at 22:06
I agree about the note taking, Debby! I do make it a priority to catch up on my diaries eventually. Like now… I’m staring at being a week behind, or a seven-hour writing marathon. But, I had to laugh at your last sentence, that I can elaborate on them later when I have time. Ha! Time! Me? Never. 🙂
April 4, 2023 at 06:25
Thoroughly enjoyed this post and your wonderful photos, but sorry you had such a migraine! Nothing worse when you’re trekking, and one comes on – everything is just compounded.
I’ve seen a few smooth wooden large sculptures of devils – amazing works of art – inside churches in South America – it’s quite odd.
April 4, 2023 at 22:09
Thanks for swinging by, reading, and commenting, Nila! Those migraines have, unfortunately, ruined many an afternoon and evening. Interestingly, they only come on once I safely finished the hike. Maybe because I take meds ahead of time or before it gets too bad. Or maybe it’s mentally, once I realize my exertion is finished, everything lets go.
Interesting about the devils in South American churches. We will have to keep an eye out for those!
April 4, 2023 at 12:32
What gorgeous waterfalls and landscapes! And I’ll be carrying your advice moving forward: “It’s all about expectations and not being in a hurry!”
What did the feijoa fruit and liquor taste like? It looks a bit like a cross between a lime and a guava.
April 4, 2023 at 22:13
It’s difficult to describe the taste of feijoa as it is quite distinct. Maybe a crossing between a guava and a kiwi? The liquor is just sweet and creamy with a hint of the feijoa flavor. Great as a dessert drink on ice.
I’ve learned the hard way to lower my expectations. It is my experience that expectations lead to disappointments, so not anticipating much or anything can only turn into pleasant surprises. 🙂
April 5, 2023 at 14:03
Not many people can say they attended a wedding – in the middle of it – in their home. With fireworks. I felt so badly for Maya.
But I enjoyed the photos and the comments on these fascinating towns and villages.
April 5, 2023 at 15:33
Haha. That’s a good way to look at it, Pam! Being part of a wedding, without playing part. 🙂 We have noticed that when Thirsty Bella is parked at attractions, we often get more attention than the attraction itself.
April 7, 2023 at 07:56
Totally understandable. Bella is beautiful.
April 7, 2023 at 21:06
Funny you use the term “beautiful” as that’s how the Colombians describe Bella as well: “linda” or “lindo” which we find a strange term for our home. We would call her several names, but never beautiful…