In the beginning of February, Mark, Maya, and I spent ten days on a pebble beach near Agua Verde in Baja California, Mexico. During that time, we visited this small village with our friends Duwan and Greg, in their car. Waiting for a fish taco lunch at the town’s waterfront, we spotted a protected bay with anchored boats and a sandy beach through binoculars. We decided to stop there on the drive home. Within five minutes of setting foot on that white beach and gazing at the surrounding rock formations, Mark and I concluded: “Let’s stop here for a week on our drive back north.”
Agua Verde bay
So, a good six weeks later, after we explored more of the Baja California peninsula and rounded Cabo Este, we stocked up on water, propane, and food for another nine days off the beaten path. Our first night was spent at the end of the ten-mile paved stretch of road, which then turned into dirt for another 20 miles to Agua Verde.
(As always, hover over or click on the photos in galleries to read their captions.)
The road in
Those last 30 kilometers (20 miles) of the Agua Verde road were rutted and potholed; some were steep and narrow, down a treacherous slope, where you hoped nobody arrived from the other side. This was the second time we attempted this route. Heading down and looking ahead, clouds of dust announced opposing traffic. Sometimes, I would jump out of the passenger seat to assess the situation. On the return trip, it was more difficult to see oncoming cars. We hoped they would see our dust cloud.
At the bottom of the windy hill, the track was mostly flat but still in awful shape. The entire stretch of road, from Mex 1 (the main “highway” in Baja) to Agua Verde took us two hours and a half of being shaken. Despite our slow progress, car sickness still befell me. But it was worth it.
One-lane dirt road towards Agua Verde
Our campsite
After a last, steep descend, an empty beach opened up. We had encountered quite a bit of traffic on the drive, so we feared the place would be packed. Not so. A group of fishermen was camped for the night by the entrance of the beach and multiple sailboats peacefully swayed at anchor. We had our pick to park and chose a spot higher up. From here, we could see the protected bay on one side and the windier Sea of Cortez on the other side. Depending on shade, we moved our chairs around the camper.
On our second day, the wind picked up and sand blasted around us. We had to close all windows and our bodies were whipped by the beach. We feared our time here was short lived and moved to a lower spot, along the anchorage. Luckily, the weather improved, so that’s where we remained.
Because this site is so remote and hard to get to – especially the final descend; 4WD is a must – few campers make it. Unlike the beach in front of Agua Verde town, this one is still free to camp on. José (“Tio”) is the sweet, friendly, and welcoming caretaker who has lived here for forty years. In his old age he now gets help from a friend, who keeps the beach clean. His dog, Lola, often kept us – and Maya – company.
We read in iOverlander that José doesn’t charge anything to camp, but that he appreciates receiving groceries. We showed up with a full bag of food for him and each time we walked to town, we swung by to ask what he needed (usually vegetables and tortillas) and dropped those off on our return. During our eight days at the beach, it was obvious and heart-warming that locals and visitors alike took good care of this humble man, who rarely sets foot outside of his shack.
Activities
The surrounding hills and beaches are perfect for hiking. Some trails offer fabulous views; others bring you to different bays. It is recommended to start any hike early, because it gets hot quickly. The hill behind our camper offered the best views.
One morning, we followed a cattle trail across another hill, turned right into an arroyo, and stumbled across a little oasis – a pond surrounded by palm trees. We reached a rocky beach and wondered if we could follow the coastline back to our camping area, instead of backtracking via the hot and dusty trail. Rounding each rocky bend, we hoped to recognize land features. The further we progressed, the more we hoped we didn’t have to turn around. It was a fun hour of exploration – and we made it!
We met several campers and sailors, one of whom guided us to rock art in a cave, about an hour from the anchorage. Because we had a late start, heavy climbing in the beating sun was involved. Luckily, we could ensure the group that returning via the shorter, cooler, rockier waterfront was possible.
Every morning, we would walk Maya along the rocky headlands of the anchorage. I enjoyed the views from this peninsula, as well as watching the plethora of birds on the water’s edge. This was a good place to get away from it all – not that the main beach was all that busy.
Once, I borrowed snorkel gear to explore this area underwater. Colorful fish and coral greeted me, but the water temperature was way too cold for this warm-blooded body. I lasted half an hour and shivered the rest of the day. Other activities enjoyed by visitors are kayaking and paddle boarding.
Because of the congregation of campers and sailors – and one small cruise ship – here, there was never a dull moment. We chatted with different people and became friends with Andy and Deb, fellow truck camper travelers, and their cute dogs Pyro and Delilah. Quite a few happy hours, scrumptious home-cooked meals, incredible stories, and genuine laughs were shared!
One of our favorite activities – on this beach or others – is to just sit in our chairs and watch the natural world go by…
Agua Verde town
Another advantage – and the reason we could stay at this beach for a while – is the close proximity of town. A 30-minute walk around different rocky headlands brings you to the black beach of Agua Verde, where a restaurant offers decent WiFi for 30 pesos (US$1.50) an hour or 50 pesos (US$2.50) a day. From there, it is a short but hot and dusty walk to the sleepy village, where you will find a store stocked with fresh produce (closed in the afternoons) and a tortilleria. Here, a co-op of women makes fresh harina (flour) and mais (corn) tortillas daily. Quite the find!
Walk to town along the rocks
The road out
During our eight days at this beach, only two other RVs arrived. We all made it down the steep, gravel hill okay, but feared not being able to get back up! Mark joked we might have to stay here forever. I wasn’t opposed to that.
Temporary neighbors during our stay at the beach
The grade was 16%. After a German rig with six wheels arrived, we asked the owners “Do you have four-wheel drive?” The answer: “We have six-wheel drive!” When they left after two nights, the rest of us watched with trepidation. They got stuck even before reaching the hill and then again about two-thirds up! This didn’t bode well. The vehicle was towed out by a Czech expat, but this occurrence had us stumped.
Stuck on the gravel road up the hill!
Andy walked the distance and assessed the situation. He came to the conclusion that the RV of the Germans was all-wheel drive, which makes the wheels do different things than 4WD. We should be fine. Nevertheless, before Andy and Deb made the attempt in their truck camper, he strapped the camper part to his truck for the ascend. He managed to climb the steep hill without issues, but was shaking afterwards.
Based on these examples, we believed our T&T would make it without much effort. And, it did.
From the top of the hill, Mark and I looked back at this magical place with fondness in our hearts – and a bit of sadness as well. Will we ever come back? Will it still be as pristine and peaceful then?
We braved the long, bumpy ride back to the highway, happy to have made the arduous journey again, fond of the new friends we made, and richer with yet more incredible Baja memories.
Curious about a previous ten-year chapter in our nomadic lives, which includes eight years aboard a 35-foot sailboat in the tropics, check out the travel/adventure/personal memoir I wrote:
April 20, 2022 at 15:12
I so envy you and your 4WD! And now as I plan a trip up the California coast I wish I was back in Baja. It was so easy there. Finding free or affordable – or any camping at all near where we want to go it turning into a chore.
Agua Verde is one of my sailing friend’s favorite anchorage. I see why. What a great place to spend a week.
April 25, 2022 at 12:10
Camping near the coast of California is difficult and/or very expensive. We found Boondockers Welcome and Harvest Host (plus a few friends’ homes) to be quite useful. We also had military base privileges and a few of them have campgrounds. One particularly pleasant one is right on the beach in San Onofre and another one on the beach is near Oxnard. Good luck. The scenery along the coast north of San Francisco is well worth the effort.
April 25, 2022 at 14:35
Yes, we will be doing the same. We use Boondockers Welcome all the time and just signed up for Harvest Hosts. Plus we have a few friends on the way.
I’m still trying to figure out a place to stay near Point Reyes National Seashore. So frustrating that there is only hike-in camping in the park!
Thanks for you suggestions.
April 25, 2022 at 19:44
It’s so fun to know that you and Sunny Harvy met before in Rhode Island, Duwan. I hope you’ll manage to visit the seashore. It’s an awesome park. Maybe find a house sit nearby, like we lucked out with. 🙂
April 25, 2022 at 19:43
Thanks for weighing in, Leslie!
April 25, 2022 at 19:47
We will miss Baja, Duwan. I’m sure of it. We are camped near Ensenada tonight and the Mex 1 turned so busy. There are people everywhere. We are having a hard time getting used to this again. It is thanks to you and Greg we saw this beach and decided to return to it!!! Maybe we will all sail there one day? 🙂
I hope you’re able to find places to camp along the CA coast. Keep enjoying the scenery nevertheless!!
April 20, 2022 at 15:50
Groceries for a free camp site is not a bad barter. Some highlights for me: The rock art and the pristine scenes. I’m glad you had only friendly encounters this time, Liesbet!
April 25, 2022 at 19:13
Hi Marian!
It was fun and rewarding to bring back groceries for Jose. Baja has mostly been friendly encounters. They far outweigh the one relatively negative experience we had in 3.5 months. It will be a mixed bag for us when we return to the US tomorrow…
April 20, 2022 at 16:00
Fun stuff. Love that Maia made friends, too!
April 25, 2022 at 19:14
Jacqui, this dog of ours has the time of her life. Always new surroundings, sniffs, walks, views, and friends! 🙂
April 20, 2022 at 16:25
I can see why it’s one of your favourites!
LOVE the photos – they are exactly what this lifestyle is all about.
April 25, 2022 at 19:15
Thanks, Jackie. Don’t you love this lifestyle? Once we are all up and running and exploring and nothing breaks and the dogs behave and we are all healthy and happy??? 🙂
April 20, 2022 at 16:57
What a wonderful experience! Color me green with envy.
April 25, 2022 at 19:15
Oh, I’m sorry to make you envy. Let’s see if we can change that color? 🙂
April 20, 2022 at 17:31
Just stunning. Not sure my nerves would’ve handled the trek in and out though.
April 25, 2022 at 19:16
Hi Alex! Sometimes it is nice to endure a little bit of a challenge before reaching a fantastic destination. It makes the effort worthwhile. We have often dealt with bad roads without a prize at the end. 🙂
April 20, 2022 at 17:44
Wow, what a beautiful place! A 16-degree grade would be worrisome in a vehicle with such a high centre of gravity, though – glad you made it okay! It sounds as though your setup is working pretty well for you now.
April 25, 2022 at 19:18
You are right, Diane. It’s 16 degrees instead of percent. I will change that ASAP. 🙂
The truck and the camper have worked well for us in Baja. We are still progressing towards swapping the camper part out, though. More about that in the near future. Hopefully…
April 20, 2022 at 18:13
Just beautiful!
April 25, 2022 at 19:18
Thanks, Anabel. This is one of those few places that will capture our hearts forever. 🙂
April 26, 2022 at 02:29
I’m sure it will.
April 26, 2022 at 17:33
🙂
April 20, 2022 at 18:43
Hi, Liesbet – You, Mark & Maya are very brave adventurers. So glad to see what a wonderful experience you received at Agua Verde. Very well deserved! 😀
April 25, 2022 at 19:19
Thanks a lot, Donna. This was one of those destinations that has it all for us, so we will cherish that mix and remember it with fondness. 🙂
April 20, 2022 at 18:59
Wow, what a beautiful place to stay! I wouldn’t have been surprised if you decided to let Jose retire and take over his caretaking duties. I have a feeling you’ll be back 🙂
April 25, 2022 at 19:20
Haha, Janis. I – really – could spend a few months in this place. Hauling water might become an issue, though. I have a feeling Jose (at 82) is retired already, as we only saw him relaxed at his shed. Luckily, he has a helper and lots of friends who take care of him and the beach.
April 20, 2022 at 21:04
Always nice to be taken to beautiful places we will never visit.
April 25, 2022 at 19:21
Hello Steven and Annie! Never say never… But I’m curious, why don’t you think you will ever visit Baja California?
PS: I am mailing you a package tomorrow! 🙂
April 26, 2022 at 22:37
Liesbet, Guess I’d say that we may well visit Baja one day but not such a deserted place you were so lucky to find as our camping days are behind us now. Fantastic photos – thanks for sharing a slice of your life.
NO rush mailing the book – it will be a treat whenever we receive it!
Hope you enjoy your re-entry to life back in the States.
Annie
May 1, 2022 at 15:36
Aha, I see. Yes, I have to admit that we have been going down some serious quiet and bad roads on this Baja trip. Not the usual tourist route. 🙂 We certainly have mixed feelings about being back in the US, but “real life” has to continue!
April 20, 2022 at 21:34
Wow Liesbet, Liesbet, Liesbett!! Every time you mention those steep, narrow drives I have to admire your bravery. I swear my knees would go week and it would be best I never drove something like this. Aaahhhh, but in the end your payoff is amazing (such a small word for what it really is.) You get to meet such wonderful people and wonderful dogs too. The scenery is gorgeous. What a different life you live than me. I truly enjoy reading about your many adventures.
Speaking of adventures, I ordered Plunge and it should be arriving tomorrow. It may take me a while to finish reading, or not the way you write. I can’t wait to start reading it!! And I’m so happy to be able to support you in this tiny way.
You always mention pizza these days. It’s my favorite food. I’ve eaten it for breakfast, lunch and dinner but then I’ll eat breakfast at dinner too. Anyway, you must have influenced me on some level because I just got the makings for a homemade pizza. 🙂 Thanks Liesbet, it has been too long since I’ve had a homemade pizza.
Be well and be safe.
April 25, 2022 at 19:26
Hi Lea!
This surely was a heck of a ride. And, it is the same ride I mentioned before, so we actually didn’t do so many of them, haha. But, roads like these bring us to some magical places, indeed. Most of them don’t, though; they are just an adventure in themselves.
Oh wow! Thank you so much for ordering Plunge and diving, I mean “plunging”, in soon! I hope my writing doesn’t keep you awake at night. People have let me know it’s a page turner. 🙂
Did you know that pizza is the most favorite food (and restaurant choice) in the US? I know this, because good friends of mine researched this before they started their own pizza venture in a college town in Oregon and turned it into a success.
Heading back into the US tomorrow! Hopefully, that will give me time and internet to write and post more blogs soon.
April 25, 2022 at 19:39
Yes Liesbet, you do visit magical places.
I did not know that pizza is the most favorite food in the US but I’m not surprised at all. To me it is a comfort food as well as delicious.
I started your book. It is a page turner for sure!! I don’t read at night before going to sleep because the light would disturb my loved one. However, I do get to read some during the day and the amount of time varies. This is such a good book Liesbet. You have a gift for writing and you always come across as down to earth and humble.
When you get back and are able to post more I’ll be looking forward to reading about your new adventures.
April 25, 2022 at 19:49
Thank you so much, Lea! I’m thrilled you enjoy reading Plunge!!!
April 20, 2022 at 23:22
What a beautiful place to camp. I don’t think I’d mind getting stuck there either! OK, just kidding. I would totally freak out. Glad you guys got out of there with no issues. 4WD for the win!!
April 25, 2022 at 19:28
Despite the gas guzzling capacities of our F350, we are pretty psyched about that 4WD option and have put it to good use. Yeah, this steep road keeps most people away. You might have been able to do it with your toad? Or the one before that had 4WD. This place is one for the books, but I doubt we will ever be back. Time for newer and bigger adventures next…
April 21, 2022 at 12:22
Liesbet, when I think of the bravest thing I’ve ever done it doesn’t come close to the things you do every single day. Your life is a special adventure and I am so grateful you share it with us. I hope the next time you visit Green Water it will be as pristine as it is now. What a beautiful place.
April 25, 2022 at 19:32
Hello Suzanne,
You really make me smile with your lovely comment about how you enjoy reading my blog posts. Thank you! If it wasn’t for people like you, I’d just get lazy and give up on sharing our adventures in this “old-fashioned” and time-consuming way. Probably. 🙂
Green Water village is pretty small (300 residents), remote, and sleepy, so I don’t think it will change any time soon. It even stood out to us that no gringos live there yet. Unless some rich developers arrive. But still, I think the locals would prevent such a thing. And we have seen many developments get started and abandoned within months.
April 21, 2022 at 13:02
What a place wow!! Beautiful photos.
I would never want to leave this place, but I guess all good things come to an end. I am glad T&T made it up hill with no issues.
April 25, 2022 at 19:33
Hi Gilda!
You are right! All good – and bad – things come to an end. T&T has been fabulastic in Baja! I’m looking forward to reading all about your Brazil adventures soon, as we will head there in the coming years. 🙂
April 22, 2022 at 07:26
I felt like I was reading an adventure book the entire post. How magical, and yet suspenseful as well. I even got a bit of motion sickness while imagining you on that bumpy ride (I would have been sick within 5 minutes). But oh so worth the ride. The photos are magnificent. And I love Jose. A special man, with special people who keep his pantry stocked.
April 25, 2022 at 19:35
Hi Pam,
You know how I get sea sick. Just like you. So, I’m sorry I made you a bit queasy. Next time, I’ll tell you when we have arrived and you can open your eyes and just enjoy the view. 🙂
Jose – endearingly called “Tio” (uncle) by the villagers – is special indeed and oh-so loved!
April 22, 2022 at 21:48
What a beautiful place to stay, Liesbet. I’m glad you had such a good time at Agua Verde. Thank you for sharing your adventure and photos with us.
April 25, 2022 at 19:37
Hello Natalie!
You are very welcome. Agua Verde is in our top three of favorite places visited in Baja these last 3.5 months. As a free campsite, it has pretty much everything we desire, including peace and lack of crowds. 🙂
April 24, 2022 at 07:01
What a great find, and I can tell how much you loved it because you called it ‘magical’, Liesbet.
And what a lovely thing to do for José. Can you believe he probably has never seen much of the rest of the world. In the forty years he’s been there, I bet it has not changed very much. I hope he doesn’t get too lonely, though. Being a people person, I need my social interaction. I wonder who cuts his hair? Maybe he does it himself? Why am I even asking those questions?
I hope you do get to go back.
April 25, 2022 at 19:43
Hi Hugh!
I’m sure you are right. Jose has lived his entire life in this village and half of it on this particular beach. He is happy there and I’m sure he does not miss worldly adventures. We heard some rumors about more development coming to this beach and Jose being relocated, but we hope none of that is in his future, of course.
I love your questions, Hugh, but this one did make me snicker! I don’t know who cut Jose’s hair, but I wouldn’t be surprised some sweet and kind woman from the village comes over once in a while to do this. People in town love “Tio” (uncle) as he is called locally. One time when we bought fresh flour tortillas for him, the woman serving us added a few extra after learning the stack was for Tio. Everyone adores him.
As far as socializing goes, we rarely saw him sitting by himself on the porch of his shed. Usually, he is accompanied by fishermen, a Czech expat, friends from town, or one or another long term traveler.
April 29, 2022 at 07:25
It’s great to hear that the village all loves him, Liesbet. I hope that development on his beach does not happen. It would be terrible if he lost his home and had to move elsewhere. I can understand why he’s so popular, so I hope if anything does happen, there will be a protest to save his piece of the world. It’ll be heartbreaking if he is forced to move.
May 1, 2022 at 15:37
Hi Hugh! I also hope that there will be a protest if development on Jose’s beach is planned. I’m hoping it won’t happen until he has left this world, or not at all, of course…
April 25, 2022 at 22:00
You find the most amazing places, Liesbet. Great photos!
April 25, 2022 at 22:27
I’m glad you enjoyed the photos and the places through my lens, Debra. Thank you for the compliments!
April 25, 2022 at 22:09
What a most beautiful tour, a slice of heaven. Happy to hear good stories and no scary events there lol. I’m sure I’ve heard of Agua Verde. Stunning views. <3
April 25, 2022 at 22:29
I’m sure there are about one hundred Agua Verdes in Mexico and even more around the world, Debby. This one has a special place in our hearts. I wonder if one day, I’ll make a top ten list of sleepy gems around the world? 🙂
April 26, 2022 at 10:59
I think that would make an excellent travel column. By now you guys should have your own travel explore show! 🙂
April 26, 2022 at 17:34
Haha! If people pay us for writing this column, I might consider it! 🙂
April 26, 2022 at 12:12
A gem of a place indeed, Liesbet! The water in the bay is gorgeous, well worth your trip. Glad to read the truck is successfully navigating the roads and taking you to wonderful places!
April 26, 2022 at 17:36
Hi Terri! The truck is fulfilling – if not exceeding – all our expectations! It’s a keeper for our South America trip. We just crossed back into the US today, into California (seeing Janis and Paul tonight!) – sticker shock and oh so busy. It will take a few days of getting used to and then, we will begin the next step on our to-do list! 🙂
April 26, 2022 at 18:53
Oh how lovely, Liesbet! Enjoy SD!
May 1, 2022 at 15:34
Thanks, Terri! If we end up near Spokane, we will let you know.
April 29, 2022 at 10:18
Liesbet – regarding tire pumps, this just in the latest edition
https://www.truckcampermagazine.com/tag/latest/
I can email the document if you’ll send a private address. Bottom line is Viair 450-P RV.
Ann, Galivant
May 1, 2022 at 15:45
Hi Ann! Thanks for the link. Interesting survey/article. We are back in the US now with reliable and unlimited internet.
We actually have a Viair, because it is the best manufacturer of air compressors. Mark did his research as always before buying one. But ours is much smaller and cheaper ($80) than the one mentioned in the article. We didn’t buy that model because we don’t need the heavier-duty equipment (with many extra parts), we wanted something as compact as possible, and we are cheap skates! We will stick with the one we have and be patient and replace fuses once in a while – much cheaper. 🙂
April 30, 2022 at 10:22
Wow, great post! Thanks for sharing.
May 1, 2022 at 15:59
You are very welcome. I’m glad you enjoyed the story and photos.
December 16, 2022 at 20:47
Just read your post and saw your rig, we were the 2 Jeeps that were going out when you came in, 1 yellow jeep and a red one, also a toyota tacoma. Looking forward to going back next year.
December 23, 2022 at 06:59
What a coincidence!! I remember seeing a group of jeeps leaving the area as we drove down the tricky road towards Agua Verde! This remains one of our favorite places and camping spots in all of the peninsula! Enjoy your trip down next year. We miss Baja!
January 11, 2024 at 17:29
Wow, this is such a great description of the area! We also have a Cirrus woohoo! We are contemplating on heading to Agua Verde this weekend (on 1/13/24) and it sounds like it’s worth it! 🙂
January 11, 2024 at 19:25
Hi Krista,
How cool is that? You found and read our Agua Verde post and you have a Cirrus! I hope you make it down there this weekend and that you manage to camp on the peninsula. It’s a magical spot and you can walk to town from that campsite during low tide. One of our best experiences in Baja.
We have since sold our Cirrus and bought an older, cheaper truck camper for our current explorations in South America. We still have the same, awesome, reliable F350 truck, though. 🙂
We are currently in Bolivia, after six months in Colombia, three months in Ecuador, and five months in Peru. I hope you’ll follow our adventures here as well. Happy travels!
January 11, 2024 at 19:25
I just saw your last name. Our current camper is a Lance, which we transformed into a cow. 🙂