It might not have been obvious in my previous blog posts, but Mark and I were antsy about returning to the Baja California peninsula of Mexico this winter, because we had a great time here last spring, meeting like-minded travelers and taking a welcome break after publishing a book. On this subsequent visit, we hoped to hang out with friends, explore this 1,000-mile narrow stretch of land a bit more, and relax on its many beaches. Our initial goal was to arrive in early December and stay until sometime in April.
Shell Beach vista
After multiple delays – trying to find jobs in Arizona, going to the dentist in Los Algodones, more camper projects in the desert, and a few important phone calls while still in the US with good cell service, we finally crossed the border into Baja on January 12th, six weeks later than planned. It was a good day! We had arrived back in Mexico and we could feel the stress and anxiety leave our bodies. Yet, we realized it would take a while to fully adjust to the life we intend to have: one of plenty adventures with a good balance between work and leisure, and plenty of walks for Maya.
Now that we have a 4WD vehicle (as opposed to our campervan Zesty, last year), more remote campsites are accessible and we feel that’s what a lot of Baja California is about: reaching peace and solitude surrounded by nature and the sea. One thing we noticed from the start, though, is that it’s much busier than last year. We were spoiled in 2021, when rarely a soul crossed into Mexico, and we often camped by ourselves.
Half an hour south of San Felipe is “Shell Beach” along the Sea of Cortez. This was our first stop and an awesome one. Miles and miles of empty beach, low dunes, gorgeous sunrises, clear night skies, and oh-so-quiet.
Last spring, we found a beautiful, unique-looking sand dollar on our beach walk in this area. I stored it in our fruit bowl. Two days later, when we hit a concealed topo (speed bump) a tad too fast, the bowl jumped off the counter and its contents scattered. A sand dollar is one of the most brittle things in the universe, so you can predict how its faith turned out. We hoped to spot another one on this stop and were rewarded generously.
On our second day in the country, Mark received a text and an email that would define our path for the following weeks. This change of plan required an airport of our choice. Despite being “only” four hours away from San Diego, CA, we opted to remain in Mexico and headed south, covering long distances on the narrow “highway” without shoulders. A six-hour drive south of San Felipe, crossing the width of the peninsula en route, lies the next town of significance: Guerrero Negro. This is a fabulous starting point to watch and touch the migrating grey whales in one of the nearby lagoons.
We stopped at the sand dunes north of town for a couple of nights. Last year, heavy winds chased us off after one night being sandblasted. This time around, the weather was perfect for multiple walks up and over the mounts with Maya and watching sunset during happy hour in our chairs. In this relatively remote part of the world, you can see both sunrise and sunset over the water on the same day. 😊
The white surroundings feel a bit surreal, with dunes as far as the eye can see. Walking in the sand for hours and watching Maya dig holes is really good exercise – for the body and mind! Laughing muscles put to the test. Happy times…
From Guerrero Negro the only north-south road, Mex 1, turns east again and crosses the peninsula once more, towards the Sea of Cortez. The scenery along this stretch is barren, yet beautiful in its own way with a diverse array of cacti, mountains in the distance, and volcanoes once you reach “the other side.” Along the way is a town called San Ignacio, an oasis in the desert. We didn’t stop this time. We were on a mission. We had decided that Mark would fly out from Loreto.
Our next stop, after the dunes, was about four hours away (or seven when adding stops to fill the fuel tank and shop, walk, and make a phone call in Santa Rosalia): Mulege.
Mulege is the town Mark and I fell in love with last spring. It became our home base for internet, work, and provisioning when away from the beaches of Bahia Concepcion. To our own surprise, we liked the atmosphere and location so much that we put in offers for a piece of land and two casitas – all of which fell through. I had hoped to stay here with Maya, while Mark returned to Massachusetts. There is daily bus service from Mulege to Loreto, two hours south.
We spent a couple of nights on a pebble beach one side of town. Here, Mark found clams at low tide. Exciting, as he had been trying to find and dig for them since our last visit in Baja. Unsuccessfully. The result of this discovery was a scrumptious dinner.
From this place, we also walked to the area of “cute houses” we were so enamored with last February. Nothing is for sale anymore. We also noticed a big change in atmosphere, where expats and visitors seemed to outnumber the local population. While we were by ourselves on this beach last time, we now shared the space with ten campervans…
On our third night in Mulege, we camped on the rocky beach next to the lighthouse. From there, we walked to our favorite campground: Huerta Don Chano. We spent a total of multiple weeks in this lush location last year, so it was my preferred option to live during Mark’s absence. Unfortunately, their prices had gone up 50% from 2021.
Our free camping spot on the north side of town
The alternative was dry camping in “our” campground in Loreto, where we arrived a few days ago. Here, I pay a third of the Mulege rate. I don’t have hook-ups (water, electricity, sewer), but our solar panels take care of my energy needs and our fresh water tank is plenty full to drink, cook, and wash dishes. Rivera Del Mar RV Park (yes, ironically, I am back at a crowded RV park…) has bathrooms with toilets and showers, laundry facilities, trash cans, flaky WiFi, and a house full of happy, friendly campers!
Maya and I will stay here until Mark returns from attending a family situation in Massachusetts.
For anyone interested: all the beach campsites mentioned in this post are free and my current, super tight parking spot costs 100 pesos (US$5) per night per person. We exclusively use the (free) app/website iOverlander for our boondocking needs.
January 24, 2022 at 16:48
What a relief it must be for you to have finally reached your “destination” (as much as you ever have a destination). It’s too bad Mark had to leave – here’s hoping his family situation is soon resolved.
Your beach photos are beautiful, and the thought of being able to watch both sunrise and sunset from the same beach is ALMOST enough to make me want to travel! 😉
January 24, 2022 at 17:23
Hi Diane!
It’s quite ironic that you recently asked that question about us traveling around the peninsula or staying in one spot… As we certainly didn’t intend to spend “a while” in the same place. Oh well. My 2022 goal of reducing the amount of photos in my posts hasn’t worked out yet. It’s so hard to pick as I, too, love the photos of the beaches and the dunes.
I wasn’t clear in my post – and I will try and remedy that soon – the sunset and sunrise are not visible from the same beach or spot, but you can easily drive from one end of the peninsula to the other to see both in one day. 🙂
January 24, 2022 at 17:32
Worth the drive, I’m sure! 🙂
January 24, 2022 at 19:36
Yes! I think it’s pretty cool to be able to see both in one day (if desired). 🙂
January 24, 2022 at 16:49
At least you are in a good and safe location while Mark is gone. That would be weird on those dunes, especially seeing sunrise and sunset so clearly on either side.
January 24, 2022 at 19:27
It was a relief to find a decent and safe camping spot for the duration, Alex. My post might have been a tad confusing, as the sunset and sunrise are visible from different coasts, but within driving distance from each other.
January 24, 2022 at 16:52
Was it easy crossing the border? I’m assuming it was since you didn’t mention it, but I wondered what the implications of Covid were as far as travel. What a charming place! I can see why you put in an offer. Hopefully, with Mark traveling, you’ll have plenty of time to write or whatever you feel like doing.
January 24, 2022 at 19:31
Hi Pete!
Last year, we didn’t arrange much ahead in the way of visas, cell data, and insurance, because we feared we might be sent back at the border, which luckily didn’t happen, even though the borders with Mexico were technically “closed” in 2021. This year, the borders are officially open, so we had no stress. We crossed in Los Algodones and it was a breeze. Customs checked the camper and truck thoroughly inside, but that is to be expected.
Based on the amount of tourists on the peninsula, I assume crossing any border with Mexico is no problema these days. Covid restrictions are much tighter here than in the US (in our opinion). Masks are obligatory inside stores and buildings (and sometimes even outside) and every store has hand sanitizers at the door. At grocery stores, employees squirt the sanitizer in your hands and take your temperature.
January 24, 2022 at 17:02
You are proving the value of a 4WD vehicle here.
I definitely understand how family situations can interrupt plans. However, you are situated well until Mark returns. In the meantime, safety and good health, Liesbet!
January 24, 2022 at 19:32
Thanks for the wishes, Marian. I’m looking forward to exploring this peninsula once Mark returns. In the meantime – other than the noise – Maya and I aren’t in a bad place. I love my palm trees and blue skies. Just like Florida (except for the humidity). 🙂
January 24, 2022 at 17:11
I’m sorry that Mark was pulled away but it looks like you have a good area in which to wait for him (a bit crowded but access to the amenities you need). So, it sounds like you might be a little relieved that you didn’t buy a place last year?
January 24, 2022 at 19:34
Hi Janis! We are trying to convince ourselves that it was a good thing (“meant to be”) that we missed out on our own place last year, that it is a relief, but I still have regrets. This is honestly the first time in my life that I still regret something. I’ll never know if things would have turned out better or worse for us, though.
January 24, 2022 at 17:11
Wow. I continue to be impressed with how you can make everything work. I hope Mark’s family business works out!
January 24, 2022 at 19:35
Thanks, Jacqui. This is “business” that doesn’t end well. 🙁 But, we are dealing with everything as well as possible.
January 24, 2022 at 17:29
I hope that Mark and his family are all okay. Sending big hugs to Mark, you and Maya!
January 24, 2022 at 19:36
Thank you, Donna. Sending hugs back to you and Richard, from Mexico and the USA. xox
January 24, 2022 at 18:20
I love this post! We have wonderful memories of that part of the Baja from our cruising days back in the early ‘oughts. We loved Santa Rosalia, Muleje, and Loreto. Is the salchicha vendor still there on the steps of the Eiffel church in Santa Rosalia? When we were anchored in Bahia Santa Barbara, we were able to reach down in 5 feet of water and scoop up the clams from the sand. Your lovely clam dish made me remember that!
I hope Mark’s family issue is resolved soon and he can get back down to you. Doing land-side camping in the Baja sure is intriguing!
Cheers,
Susan
January 24, 2022 at 19:41
Hi Susan!
I remember you mentioning your cruising time in the Sea of Cortez. This year, we saw way more sailboats in Bahia Concepcion than last year, when driving by. It is getting very windy again, though. I didn’t see any vendors at any church the day we stopped in Santa Rosalia for a quick visit. But, it was a Monday and most taco stands and restaurants seemed closed over lunch.
Being able to catch our own food is something we miss from our sailing days. Your clam experience is just wonderful! We never sailed in Mexico – every place has its highlights, huh?
Wishing the family issue be resolved is tricky, Susan, but I hope Mark will be back soon, too. I can’t wait to start exploring this year.
January 24, 2022 at 19:21
You really show how beautiful Baja is, Liesbet! Hans loved driving through there on his trips to the La Paz area on the Sea of Cortez side. I’m glad you are in an area where you do have some company, safety and amenities and for $5 a night, that’s a deal. Amazing to read how much has changed in a year. Hope Mark can deal with the personal business quickly and that you can get back to doing what you love!
January 24, 2022 at 19:43
Thank you for the sweet wishes and photo compliments, Terri. Baja is a special place. It’s interesting, diverse, and different. Hard to explain why we love it so much, as it doesn’t really have any “real” tourist attractions. I think it’s its wildness that attracts us. I’m glad you and Hans have visited the Sea of Cortez plenty of times. I haven’t been to La Paz in sixteen years and look forward to walking its Malecon again. 🙂
January 24, 2022 at 19:28
Beautiful sand dunes, Liesbet. I hope Mark’s family is OK and he’ll be back to enjoy life in nice weather with you and Maya soon.
January 24, 2022 at 19:44
Those sand dunes are quite spectacular, Natalie. They reminded me of White Sands National Park in New Mexico, although the dunes in Guerrero Negro are more scalable. 🙂
January 24, 2022 at 20:33
I am sure you and Maya are missing Mark now, so I hope he will be joining you again soon.
I know how much you love this area and I can see why, it looks beautiful. Your photos are gorgeous ❤️
January 25, 2022 at 13:09
Hi Gilda!
Usually, I’d be boasting that I don’t miss Mark, because, usually, I need some me-time and am happy to get it for a week or longer, especially if it was planned. I like to feel independent once in a while.
For some reason, this time it is different. I tried to wrap up a lot of work and projects before we left the US, promised to scale back on SM, and we really looked forward to having fun together in Baja. So, I had to adjust again and am now back to the computer instead of the beach. And, I have to admit that we do miss Mark. 🙂
Maya, while very attached to her “daddy” is doing great with just me, though. But, once he’s back, she’ll ignore me again. She truly is a “one person” dog…
January 24, 2022 at 22:31
I’m sorry Mark had to leave so soon, sometimes life doesn’t work out the way we hope. But you and Maya look to have a wonderful place to wait for him. Fingers crossed that things work out, and you can get underway again.
January 25, 2022 at 13:12
Hi Chris,
Thanks for reading and commenting! And, welcome to this space. 🙂
Maya and I will be happy when Mark is back, but we will manage in the meantime. Usually, we can deal with something not working out (once in a while), since we are used to it. But, last year – and this one so far – it seems to be one thing after another, without a break. That’s what is weighing on us. Yet, we hope 2022 will be a positive year, one for the books.
I hope you are doing okay, too. The last couple of years haven’t been easy…
January 24, 2022 at 22:42
Hi Liesbet, ALL your photos are amazing. What gorgeous scenery, and wildlife. I love the whale photos. And the photo with the two boats is so … peaceful. I am happy that you are in a spot you are enjoying. Give Maya a hug from me.
January 25, 2022 at 13:14
Maya received your hug and sends you a wag. She is resting at my feet at the moment, on the cool tiles of a Mexican laundromat. 🙂 I’m glad you like the photos and you enjoy following along. Anchored or resting boats in combination with blue water are some of my favorite scenes to photograph.
January 24, 2022 at 22:56
So happy you guys made it back down! That was such a cool place. Wish I could get some time to come visit. Hope all is well.
January 25, 2022 at 13:18
We’ve been thinking about you, Dave, especially since being here at the campground. Great memories from last year. Wish you could come down again this year, too! Lots of driving, though, and fuel is insanely pricey in CA and Mexico (as you know).
January 25, 2022 at 01:31
Love all of your photos.
January 25, 2022 at 13:18
Thanks, Rosie! I love taking them and posting them. Selecting them out of hundreds each time is a tad harder, haha.
January 25, 2022 at 16:22
Enjoy. We love Baja!
January 26, 2022 at 13:55
Thanks. Baja is a special place! 🙂
January 25, 2022 at 18:36
Beautiful beaches! Sorry to hear about Mark’s family situation, I hope it’s nothing too serious and can be resolved soon.
January 26, 2022 at 13:56
Thanks, Anabel. We will have to wait and see what happens with Mark’s father the coming days/weeks.
January 25, 2022 at 18:50
Lovely photos, no wonder it is so hard to choose🙂 All those dunes, and the endless beaches look so peaceful.
January 26, 2022 at 13:57
Hi Christie! I should probably take less photos. 🙂 But, digital photography is so easy, that I’d rather take a bunch and then delete half of them. Even then, I still have heaps left to choose from. I’m glad you are enjoying the virtual traveling.
January 26, 2022 at 13:12
Hi Liesbet! Glad you found a place to park for a while in Loreto. It makes sense that it is much more crowded now than it was last year. And chances are good it will be even more if/when things return to a new normal. When we visited several years ago (pre-covid) it was busy enough but because we had no example with it empty it didn’t seem bad. But I can still remember the rows of RVs parked on the beach south of Mulege. And from what i gathered they were mostly from Canada. Chances are good those will be returning in the future. I think if you are looking for a true remote location you are going to have to go south and/or maybe go to the mainland. The more well-known a place the more people right? Meanwhile enjoy your showers and the good weather and we look forward to learning of your next adventure. ~Kathy
January 26, 2022 at 14:01
Hello Kathy,
Yes, the Canadians are back. They are a friendly bunch, but make the beaches and parks crowded. Luckily, there are enough people traveling through that spots fill and empty almost daily. Most of the North American RVers stay in one place the entire time, usually one with facilities, so it is easy to find quiet places in more remote parts of Baja, which is our preferred way of camping. This year, we plan to go much further south than Loreto. I’m looking forward to exploring that part of Baja once Mark returns.
PS: The showers are fabulous! Clean, hot, pressurized. 🙂
January 28, 2022 at 07:28
I could feel the stress draining away for you guys as I read your post.
Great that you have returned to a place that all three of you love so much. But it does sound as if many others have now also discovered it. And what a shame that this has meant price rises. I am rather worried about you and Maya being without Mark, but if you feel comfortable and safe, then that’s a good start. I can’t imagine being in another country without my partner, but that’s me
Anyway, it all looks lovely, and I’m glad you finally made it back to Baja. I wonder if you’ll be looking at property while Mark is away, or has prices gone up as much as the campsite prices have?
Take care, Liesbet.
January 28, 2022 at 16:10
Hi Hugh!
I usually really appreciate my me-time and look forward to it. Mostly, because it is a planned and anticipated period. In this case, we were looking forward to finally having some fun again, together, so part of me is bummed he had to leave for a while. That being said, I am in a very safe, comfortable, and enjoyable campground. There are many friendly travelers around with whom to have a chat as well. And, life is cheap in Mexico. And more attractive than in snowy Massachusetts. 🙂
I am/we are not looking at property anymore. That boat has sailed. Last year, it all felt right in the town of Mulege. Here in Loreto, the prices are high and we don’t like it enough to ever buy a casita or return for long periods of time. Too many aggressive dogs on about every property. And, way too noisy!
January 29, 2022 at 06:01
I wonder if as you drive around the peninsula you’ll discover property and an area that will make you change your mind? It sounds to me as if the peninsula is starting to get well-known. I wonder if it were the same before the pandemic?
Such a shame about the aggressive dogs, Liesbet. I wonder why they’re all so aggressive? Maybe to put off any trespassers?
January 29, 2022 at 14:35
I think you’re right, Hugh. The peninsula has become much more popular over recent years. And, I do think the pandemic has helped with that, because prices for housing are spiking in California and Arizona, so “gringos” are now looking elsewhere, where it is much cheaper. And, many people have discovered “vanlife” plus they weren’t allowed to travel internationally last year. In 2022, everybody is out and about.
We now have our minds set on exploring South America for a few years, so buying property or a little house is counter productive. 🙂 And, yes, the dogs are aggressive to guard their place. As long as the strays and off-leash dogs roaming around are friendly, there are ways to avoid the aggressive ones in Loreto.
February 2, 2022 at 20:58
Wow Liesbet, you are a brave girl to stay alone in Mexico camping. Stay safe! I’m glad to see you’re wearing a mask. Mexico’s Covid rate is high and I read the Baja penninsula is some of the highest Covid, maybe because it is so busy. Gorgeous photos. <3
February 3, 2022 at 13:20
Hi Debby!
Not so brave. I was in an official campground in Loreto, surrounded by gringos, mostly Canadians. 🙂 Mark didn’t want me boondocked during the time he was gone. Fair point. That wouldn’t be so safe and definitely not as convenient and comfortable.
We always wear a mask going inside stores and such and when in close proximity with people. When you arrive in PV (I actually think you have arrived), you will notice that people in Mexico take Covid more seriously than elsewhere, especially when entering stores, bars, restaurants, and other buildings. Enjoy your time in the sun. Don’t get burned!! 🙂
February 4, 2022 at 09:54
You got that right my friend! I’m still leery though because Covid is quite rampant here. Oye! <3
February 4, 2022 at 12:20
I think it is perfectly possible to soak up the sun rays and talk to people from six feet apart from a very comfortable lounge chair at the pool!! 🙂
February 4, 2022 at 19:46
That’s it my friend! 🙂 xx
February 6, 2022 at 12:51
🙂