The shallow Ojo de Liebre Lagoon (also called Scammon’s Lagoon) and the San Ignacio Lagoon in Baja California, Mexico, are the breeding grounds of the California gray whale, who migrate here every winter. Peak season to watch the adults and babies is from January through March. Ojo de Liebre (“hare eye lagoon”), a coastal lagoon near the town of Guerrero Negro, is a prime location to spot these humongous yet gentle creatures.
Whale and tail
Attempt One: Laguna Ojo de Liebre Campground
Sometime in February, Mark, Maya, and I drove 12 miles down a bumpy, gravel road past a salt mine to reach the departure point for whale watch tours ($50 per person) and set up camp for a few days.
It’s a beautiful location with lots of birds and trails to walk Maya – all for the price of 100 pesos ($5) for however long you’d like to stay. We could watch whale spouts through binoculars all day long. While a tad pricey for us, I decided to sign on for one of the tours, using birthday money from my parents.
Watching the ospreys in this area was a nice bonus.
The Sunday morning I hopped on the tour boat, weather conditions were perfect: a sunny, windless day. My expectations were high. Stories about and photos of breaching and nudging whales had me on high alert, camera at the ready. My mask-less group members, however, ruined the fun for me. This family of three was loud and “all over” the boat. Even when I escaped to the tippy bow, I felt they were crowding me. Yes, I should have said something. Or gotten off the boat and join another one…
Despite my annoyances, I enjoyed floating on the water for an hour and a half. Being surrounded by breathing grey whales (did you know they have two blowholes?) was mesmerizing and I managed to take a few nice photos and videos. But… I didn’t see any whales breaching, watch them up-close, or manage to pet them.
Attempt Two: Punta Mariscal
A few days before leaving the peninsula, towards the end of March, the three of us bounced 22 miles down an even worse dirt road with multiple rough stretches of washboard to reach Punta Mariscal from Guerrero Negro. Here, another tour company takes tourists into Ojo de Liebre lagoon to observe the grey whales. The price for tours is the same (but they last two hours) and – like the other place – most people book their tickets in town and are brought down in a van.
It is possible to camp here for an extra fee of 200 pesos ($10) per night and you need a permit to pass through this salt mine. Yet, the campground is just a parking spot. While our boat driver did more effort to attract and find the whales (successfully!), getting here with your own vehicle is a hassle, less attractive, and more pricey.
But… how it was worth all that!
Breaching whale
Blowing bubbles. Can you see all the barnacles?
Close encounter
Approaching whale
Whale head close by
Yes, we could pet these gentle giants.
Two more curious grey whales – at one point, we had eight of them around and under our boat!
The highlight was being able to enjoy this experience with different senses as we touched their soft skin, shook when they bumped the boat, and were drenched by their spray.
Truly a top ten wildlife encounter!
April 5, 2021 at 01:07
Talk about up close and personal! I’m glad it was well worth it. It’s remarkable to see all of the barnacles growing on the whales. I’ve read that they can even grow on human skin. Yipes!
April 5, 2021 at 18:17
Until watching the whales that closely, I thought barnacles only grew on boats and other lifeless things like buoys that sit in the salt water for a long time. On human skin? Wow. I wonder how long you’d have to be lying in the ocean for that. Can’t be healthy. Even before barnacles accompany you.
April 5, 2021 at 04:10
Such awesome creatures and you managed to get so close to them. I am so envious, your photos are gorgeous.
April 5, 2021 at 18:19
It was a fantastic experience, Gilda, to observe them for a long time around our boat and to be able to touch a few of them. They loved the attention and seemed to frolic and play, spinning circles underneath us and upon approach. We mostly saw them on their backs.
April 5, 2021 at 07:46
That is very cool! Boy, were they close. Do they sometimes overturn boats by accident?
April 5, 2021 at 18:30
Alex, I have not heard of boats having capsized because of the friendly nudge of a grey whale in this lagoon, but they do bump the boat often, usually from underneath. Or, their spray bubbles up against the bottom of the boat. Everything about these encounters is super cool!
April 5, 2021 at 09:54
Wow – so cool! Whales seem so prehistoric to me (in a good and fascinating way). Glad you got to see them up close!
April 5, 2021 at 18:32
You’re right, Lexie. When you look at these whales up close, they look weird and bulky. Their eyes are tiny compared to their size. And, who knew they had two blow holes? This is what creates the V-shape of the spouts. I’m thrilled about this experience and happy to have spent the money, which is always hard to do for us…
April 5, 2021 at 10:26
Oh my. Definitely worth the money, crowd, everything. They’re almost tame, or domesticated.
April 5, 2021 at 18:35
It used to be different here, Jacqui, when they were hunted by American whalers, like Scammon, and blood filled the lagoon. 🙁 Whale tourism is certainly the way to go and has restored the numbers of these grey whales to the numbers of the 1800s. When we were there, over 400 whales were present in Ojo de Liebre! So very cool!
April 5, 2021 at 11:20
How lovely that you were able to get that close!! The photos are terrific!
April 5, 2021 at 18:36
Thanks, Deb. Once my camera became the victim of a whale spout, I stopped taking photos and just enjoyed the presence of these amazing creatures.
April 5, 2021 at 12:22
We have ospreys here in Florida, but no whales. The osprey is the motif for the University of North Florida about 6-7 miles from here.
Awesome whale shots, Liesbet!
April 5, 2021 at 18:38
I didn’t know about the importance of the osprey to the University of Florida, Marian. They are amazing birds and Baja is full of them. We would often hear their shrill cry and see them fly, nest, or eat prey. It’s that abundance of wildlife that makes this peninsula even more attractive to us than the scenery. We will have to go back soon. 🙂
April 5, 2021 at 14:03
Fantastic! Including the ospreys too.
April 5, 2021 at 18:39
I love those ospreys, Anabel! Have you ever seen or heard them? They make a very distinct, shrill sound when they cry. Throughout Baja you find poles especially put in place so they can nest.
April 5, 2021 at 18:46
No, we haven’t been so lucky. We’ve seen the (huge) nest but tbr birds were out!
April 5, 2021 at 18:50
Patience. 🙂 Maybe their habitats will get restored in Scotland as well and they’ll reproduce and become more prominent (again)…
April 5, 2021 at 14:15
Top 10 wildlife encounter is quite an endorsement. Glad you got another up at it and got some good pictures.
Love how you they drive you right up to the boat in a truck. Mexican ingenuity! Who needs a dock?
April 5, 2021 at 18:44
Anytime we can be within inches of majestic creatures (usually underwater ones), we seem to be in heaven, Duwan. 🙂 Of course I haven’t been on an African safari yet. Whenever that happens, other experiences might drop down the list!
When we arrived at that second spot and saw all the boats on the dry at low tide, we wondered how they did whale watch tours from there. The next morning, we saw the pickup truck with wooden steps lined up and had our “aha” moment. Yep, Mexican ingenuity. Can’t wait to go back.
April 5, 2021 at 15:04
Very cool. Glad you went back for a second try. Now you have great memories and can check it off the list! 😉
April 5, 2021 at 18:47
No lists for us, Leslie. Just activities we come across when we travel and then deciding to do them or not. Mostly, we don’t because of the price. This was an exception and super worth it. To be honest, being among these whales is addictive. We might want to go again next time we are in the area.
Initially, I wasn’t going to try this tour a second time, but now – of course – I’m glad I was persistent. Mark didn’t want to take Zesty down that crazy gravel road and, to be honest, if I knew the condition of it ahead of time, I wouldn’t have wanted to go there either. Luckily, it all worked out in the end.
April 5, 2021 at 15:08
Birthday money well spent! Experiences trump things every time. Glad you took the second tour.
April 5, 2021 at 18:49
This is why I save all my birthday money, Suzanne, for occasions like these. I totally agree that experiences trump stuff every time. Most every time. I couldn’t live without my camera or tablet. 🙂
April 5, 2021 at 22:43
Magnificent whale views, Liesbet! As they say, well worth the price of admission! Stunning shots, bet the 2nd experience made your day!
April 6, 2021 at 15:46
That second tour sure was the cherry on top, Terri. It made my week, if not the entire two months we were in Baja. I can’t believe I actually spent the money for two tours. But, so worth it, as you point out. 🙂
April 5, 2021 at 22:54
Oh Liesbet, what a thrill. I can only imagine how spectacular this must have felt in person. This is my absolute dream vacation thing to do. What glorious creatures they are. Thanks for sharing.
April 6, 2021 at 15:49
Hi Lea! I hope you get to make it to Guerrero Negro in Baja California one day as this, truly, is a prime destination for whale watching and interacting! When part of a dream vacation, the price for this tour isn’t too bad. Unless you become a repeated costumer like me, of course. 🙂 I’ll start saving money to do this again next fall if we end up returning to Baja!
April 5, 2021 at 23:57
Wow, what a fabulous experience! I didn’t realize you could safely get that close to whales – love your photos! 🙂
April 6, 2021 at 15:52
I never realized that these tours involved such close encounters until I saw photos on the Baja Facebook groups and when talking to friends on the road who’d had the experience (and sent me photos!). Until then, my idea of a close encounter with whales was swimming with them in Tonga (I keep dreaming), something I looked forward to when we still had intentions to sail there on our catamaran, Irie. One day… 🙂
April 6, 2021 at 16:06
What an AWESOME experience. You have been very lucky with your bear encounters and your whale encounters. Gorgeous photos!
April 6, 2021 at 23:20
Luck or determination, Donna? 🙂 To me, being in nature and observing wildlife are two top pleasures. I can’t get enough of it. The older I get, the more I appreciate (and respect) these encounters, nature, and absolute silence and peace…
April 8, 2021 at 10:58
Oh my goodness, this beats the sightings we’ve recently had of porpoises in the waters of Swansea Bay.
It must have been an amazing experience Liesbet. I had no idea humans could get so close to these sea creatures.
April 9, 2021 at 21:08
These grey whales are total “gentle giants,” Hugh. Seeing porpoises is special as well! I will ever tire of seeing those anywhere, anytime. As long as they live in the wild. 🙂
April 8, 2021 at 19:18
What an amazing experience and birthday money well spent, Liesbet. Seeing wildlife in their natural habitats is a thrilling and humbling pleasure in life. Thank you for sharing your photos and videos.
April 9, 2021 at 21:13
You say it so well, Natalie, being surrounded by wildlife is, indeed, a thrilling and humbling experience. I love Mother Nature as well as respect her. Now that we are back on the busy east coast and temporarily living in a city, I crave those moments even more. Have a fun weekend!
April 9, 2021 at 14:06
Liesbet I am so glad you went for the second tour. This is the kind of experience we remember from our time in Magdalena Bay. Out of the five days we camped with the guides ( 2 boat outings per day) only once did we have a disappointing time. It was the trip of a lifetime, camping there on the deserted shores with these gentle giants and babies close by. Loved your photos and videos.
April 9, 2021 at 21:19
Sue, I still have to look up where Magdalena Bay is. One day, I was staring at a map of Baja California in the office of the campground in Mulege (thinking about your extended whale watching trip) and I didn’t see it. I will Google this for sure from the moment I finish replying to your comments. That experience you had sounds beyond awesome. You must have been able to hear the whales breathe from shore, being camped so close by. We havent managed to hear them from the beach yet, despite being camped on the beach in Zesty and perking our ears. 🙂
April 19, 2021 at 11:30
Such grand sightings of whales. You got to pet one too…that’s amazing..what a moment it must have been! I’ve never seen a whale up-close yet! Have to put it on my bucket list.
April 21, 2021 at 13:34
Hi Monica! Thanks for swinging by and leaving a comment on Roaming About! I do hope you manage to do a whale watch tour one of these years. It is a mind-blowing experience. The only place I have been where you can touch them was in Baja California in the lagoon we frequented. The thing on my bucket list is to swim with whales in Tonga one day. 🙂
June 25, 2021 at 12:30
When we were in Maui, we kayaked with the humpback whales. Apparently, many of the humpbacks where I live on the west coast of Canada divide their time between Hawaii and the Canadian coast. Because they had just had their young, we stayed well back from them when we were kayaking.
Jude
June 26, 2021 at 07:18
That must have been such a magical experience to kayak with whales, Jude. I’d love to do that one day. On our tour in Baja, the boat drivers would “park” their boat in the vicinity of a huge pack of whales (you could see spouts in any direction for miles) and there, we would wait. Often, nothing happened, but a few times, some of the more curious whales came by to say hi by nudging the boat or looking us in the eye, spraying us with their breathing, and inviting touches. So cool!