A hike in Mesquite Canyon, located about an hour south of Loreto, Baja California Sur, Mexico, was on the agenda last year, especially after seeing photos about it on our friends Sandie and Karsten’s blog. They had told us how to get there, but our mistake was not writing down the instructions and neglecting to search for the approach on Google Map’s satellite image.
Hiking in the heat to find the trail last year – in vain
We found the correct entrance road in the spring of 2021, drove through the gravel pit area, parked, and explored two approaches on foot with Maya. One brought us to a gate, which we didn’t think allowed public access (it did) and the other gravel path brought us into the mountains after a couple of hot and rocky miles, before we believed this wasn’t right.
The gate was closed last year, so we didn’t proceed. The trail starts two miles past this point.
It was late afternoon by the time we returned to Zesty, so we spent the night in the peaceful environs of a gravel pit. Bummed, we gave up on this alleged incredible canyon hike. When we saw Sandie and Karsten again, they mentioned the trail started two miles past the gate.
Camped with Zesty near the gravel pit, last year
Needless to say, this hike in Mesquite Canyon was high on the list during our recent return trip to Baja California Sur. This time, we did enough research and were determined to find the trail. Except, it was Sunday and the access road to the canyon was blocked off. Despair and disappointment arrived.
Oh no, the access road is blocked!
But if we have learned one thing in Mexico, it’s to not give up and look for a different approach, even though signs say “propiedad privada” and “acceso prohibido.” We parked at the confronting words by the entrance to the commercial part of the gravel pit and walked to the office. A guard told us it was okay to explore Mesquite Canyon, so we hopped back in the truck and were waved through with a smile.
Driving through the commercial part of the gravel pit
Despite the shifted landscape, we remembered how to reach the gate from last year. It was open. We followed the gravelly road – relatively deep and strewn with boulders at times but doable with 2WD – for a couple more miles. When T&T couldn’t clear a tree and the rocks became unmanageable, we stopped and camped.
(As always, hover over or click on photos in galleries to read their captions.)
The next morning, we rose to an early start with a backpack full of water, snacks, bathing suits, soap, and lunch. We understood it was possible to make a loop hike of about four miles and opted for the climb and canyon rim part early in the day, when it was not too hot yet, and return through the canyon, traversing pools of water.
After walking in deep gravel for about a mile, we spotted the trail on the edge of the canyon, climbed towards the rim, and followed the spectacular crevice mere feet away from us, careful not to tumble down. At some point, we descended into the canyon. Going right would eventually bring us back to our starting point, so we decided to turn left first.
We negotiated the first pool of water and found ourselves surrounded by steep walls. For the next mile and couple of hours, we explored this wonderland of pools, greenery, shade, and total peace and isolation within a slot canyon and its wider counterparts. Incredible and gorgeous!
Maya loved bouncing off the walls, trying to keep her body dry, and eventually plunging in and joining us.
Our trio turned around at a sliver of water, surrounded only by rock walls. It was so deep I had to swim. Mark stayed behind, not keen on emerging in dirty water with no end in sight. Other pools were crystal clear and formed the perfect conditions to take a shower. Natural baths are the best!
Late morning, we backtracked through this playground and continued within the canyon towards our starting point. Small palm trees, prickly bushes, and pools of diverse size, depth, and slickness had to be navigated to continue our adventure.
The color of the water ranged from clear to milky to green, brown, and very brown. Rarely could we see the bottom as even the turquoise water got murky once the first person stirred it up by walking in. The bottom consisted of boulders, smooth rock surfaces, or mushy dirt with invisible but very feel-able plant life. We ate lunch at one of the clearer pools and our spirits were high.
Until we arrived at a point where we didn’t see a way to continue… To drop down a level into the next pool of unknown depth, we would have to jump, slide, or lower ourselves and Maya (we brought a harness and leash for her but no rope for us) about twenty feet. I was willing to try it, but to Mark’s point “How will you get back up if your path is blocked further down?”
The alternative was to scramble over a steep and crumbling rock face in the hopes of climbing down further along, past the dark pool. Too dangerous. Even if we wouldn’t have a dog with us.
A woman at the bottom of the canyon, who didn’t see a way up – or down for us – shouted that the trailhead was just behind her. We had almost made it!
Admitting defeat was frustrating and disappointing for me, especially this close to completing the loop. Yikes! Worse, we now had to hike all the way back, through the pools and canyon – with more serious slipping and bloody cuts for me, as I was tired and annoyed and didn’t pay enough attention – and along the exposed trail in the heat of the day. I made sure to dunk myself completely several times before setting out on the rim trail soaking wet to avoid a headache.
We made it back to the camper thirsty, exhausted, and scratched up, but okay and headache free. Instead of an intended four miles, we had hiked nine! Our sandals (Tevas, Keens) proved to be the perfect footwear for an adventure of this kind.
This fabulous hike in Mesquite Canyon was such a highlight for us, that we repeated the endeavor with our friends Katherine and Brandon a couple of weeks later.
We followed the exact same trajectory and, because we met a group of Mexicans coming from the opposite direction, managed to finish the loop this time. We didn’t even need the rope we brought; there was a faint path on the canyon wall opposite to the one we tried on our first attempt. In a careful and slow manner, we reached the other side, past the deep and dark pool, a mere fifty feet from where we had started. Mission accomplished!
Curious about a previous ten-year chapter in our nomadic lives, which includes eight years aboard a 35-foot sailboat in the tropics, check out the travel/adventure/personal memoir I wrote:
May 3, 2022 at 00:29
What an amazing hike. I admire so many things about you — your perseverance and determination are at the top of that list. And how cool is that photo of Maya hiking down those step rocks?! She is a total STAR!!
May 5, 2022 at 14:11
Maya has one thing going for her (well, a few): she is agile and adventurous. Seeing her happy and wagging melts our hearts. So, we try to accomplish that often. Running around in nature (when it’s not too hot) is one of her favorite things to do. After eating. Anything. 🙂 We are now back in the forests instead of the desert and she is in heaven! So many fresh smells, cool rivers with snow melt, and off leash romps.
May 3, 2022 at 03:54
Mesquite Canyon – so good you hiked it twice! I’m not surprised – it looks absolutely stunning!
May 5, 2022 at 14:11
Anyone visiting the historic town of Loreto for a few days should make the day trip to Mesquite Canyon. If they like hiking and a little adventure. 🙂
May 3, 2022 at 08:08
You are brave souls. Glad you found the loop on the second attempt.
May 5, 2022 at 14:12
I had to pay with some scratches and sore muscles, but it was worth it! And so much fun showing this natural wonderland to our friends.
May 3, 2022 at 09:57
Without your adventures, I would still be viewing only the ducks on the lake and trees in the preserve. Your hike took me away from the here and now. I especially enjoyed the video. From the looks of Maya’s tail wag, she enjoyed the bath immensely.
I agree with Alex: You guys are brave souls indeed! 😀
May 5, 2022 at 14:17
The preserve behind you looks mighty nice, Marian. But thank you for your lovely sentiments about our adventures. I do hope people enjoy reading them and looking at the photos (and videos if I’m not too lazy or without decent internet to actually post some). Maya was a happy girl! And still is even though we have swapped the desert for the forest. Quite a difference!
May 3, 2022 at 12:00
Good on you for persevering. What an incredible hike. Such a shame you didn’t finish the loop on the first attempt, but the silver lining is that you managed to do it twice. Stunning!!
May 5, 2022 at 14:19
Hi Gilda! I think Maya is not the only stubborn one in our household. 🙂 The first time of exploring the slot canyon was magical – until I got frustrated, as we were really discovering the area and its treasures. The second time we hiked the trail, it was fun and enjoyable the entire time and special to show it off to our new friends.
May 3, 2022 at 12:58
Wow! That is such a pretty hike. I’m happy that you were able to make the full loop the second time.
May 5, 2022 at 14:20
Hi Janis! Yes, this was certainly a favorite hike of ours in the last few years. I’d go back and show friends or family around any time, now that we have it all figured out. 🙂
May 3, 2022 at 13:07
That looks fun, Liesbet. If it were a little less hot and maybe flatter, I’d be tempted! Was the water green? Or was that just photos?
May 5, 2022 at 14:23
Hi Jacqui,
The second time around, it wasn’t hot at all, because we managed to do the loop. Meaning the cool, refreshing water part when the sun got higher and stronger. The trail to get to the canyon wasn’t too steep either, but best done early morning. Then, parts of the rim trail are actually still in the shade of the mountain tops.
The water color ranged from clear to milky to green, brown, and black, depending on the pool we crossed. Some were more inviting than others, for sure!
May 3, 2022 at 15:12
Wow, what an adventure; and what spectacular terrain! I’m amazed that there’s water in such an apparently barren place. All in all, I was glad to enjoy your photos of the hike – much nicer (and safer) than attempting it in person. 🙂
May 5, 2022 at 14:27
Hi Diane!
I’m glad you enjoyed this hike virtually. Especially the photos.
We’ve been wondering about these puddles of water as well. We think the stagnant, darker ones are rain water that just sits there for a long while, but the clearer ones have springs near them. These are also the spots with more vegetation and palm trees. But those are assumptions. What do we know?
Some of the pools were really gross, though, turned brown by cattle poop, which we could smell. Some herds do get down there… I’m sure you were dying to know this fact. 🙂
May 5, 2022 at 14:36
LOL! It’s always good to get the whole picture. 🙂
May 5, 2022 at 15:32
Haha. I’m glad you think so!
May 4, 2022 at 12:19
Any hike that starts at 4 and ends as 9 is quite a challenge, but what a great payoff in the end! Very pretty and well worth the perseverance.
May 5, 2022 at 14:31
I’m sure you three have encountered hikes like these as well, where you think the trail is a certain amount of miles long and the truth happens to be double that – or worse.
Luckily, this was all doable and we had some supplies with us. A few years ago, Mark and I (before Maya) miscalculated a hike in North Cascades National Park, Washington – blame the crappy NP folder we had – and we got in a little bit of trouble when a 7-mile hike turned into a 13-mile one. It was a one-way deal as well, so we had to hitch a ride back when darkness fell…
May 4, 2022 at 15:57
Stunning! I love a slot canyon.
So funny Maya didn’t want to get wet.
And you saw a tarantula. So cool!
May 5, 2022 at 14:33
It was a spectacular canyon and experience. Darwin uses to be funny like that as well, not wanting to get his toes wet on grass covered with dew or rain but he loved to swim. Maya wanted to find a way around each pool first to eventually dive in each time. It was so funny and cool!
May 5, 2022 at 07:46
I’m smiling at Jacqui’s comment. Yes, if it was flatter, an easier trail, not as hot, and shorter, I’d do it too. Hahaha. No, the fact is that it was wonderful to hike with you – virtually so to speak – with mouth open. Incredible. And Maya!! She IS superdog.
May 5, 2022 at 14:38
Hi Pam,
Maya has a way of stealing people’s hearts with her antics! Or with her mellow personality. As long as she’s happy, we are! 🙂
In general, this Mesquite Canyon hike was not that hard at all, but there was slippage danger as I and Brandon can attest to. Katherine had to overcome her fears of not seeing the bottom in any of these pools. And, to be honest, to bottom sometimes felt really gross and mushy, even when wearing sandals.
So, there were plenty of mental discomforts to deal with but the physical challenge was fair. We’ve certainly done many more challenging (and steep) hikes, which I wouldn’t recommend to anyone (even myself).
May 6, 2022 at 11:57
Okay, you convinced me. I WOULD go on that hike. With you (and Mark. and Maya!). I never touch bottom at a lake or pond, and I love to swim, so no problem with that part. 🙂
May 8, 2022 at 22:42
Our friend Katherine was the same. She was a bit grossed out and freaked out by the darker pools and preferred to swim instead of touch the squishy bottoms.
May 5, 2022 at 15:35
Okay, Liesbet. I was all right until you showed me the tarantula on the rock wall. Yikes!
It is truly amazing the power of water on rock. Truly interesting rock sculpture and layers. It’s like a work of art. All best to you!
May 8, 2022 at 22:30
Thanks Victoria. Nature is a fascinating wealth of beauty! As you know. 🙂
May 5, 2022 at 16:11
It must have been satisfying to make it right round the second time! Loved the video of Maya.
May 8, 2022 at 22:31
Yes, the second time brought satisfaction, fun, and completion. But, the first time around brought awe, adventure, and respect.
May 9, 2022 at 02:44
All good feelings.
May 11, 2022 at 19:07
For sure!
May 5, 2022 at 19:34
A truly stunning area in which to hike, Liesbet! What amazing slot canyons. Looks like you had it all to yourselves. That water is such an amazing color! Glad you made it through the first hike, then you went back! That’s fortitude!
May 8, 2022 at 22:34
Hi Terri,
This hike truly is off the beaten path, so you rarely see another person. I know how much you love slot canyons and I still often think about your adventure in the Valley of Fire.
At the end of last month, we thought we’d drive the length of Nevada, but then that changed… One day, I’d like to check that one out, since Antelope Canyon is cost-prohibitive for us.
May 5, 2022 at 23:22
Liesbet,
I am in awe of what you, Mark, and Maya accomplished on both hikes through the canyon. I don’t think Steven and I could ever have managed the hike through the slot canyon so I appreciated your efforts all the more.
May 8, 2022 at 22:36
Hi Annie!
This was a fascinating hike. Not that difficult per se, but it took some effort to get there and explore big portions of the canyon. The entire loop is only three miles or so, if you can park close by the trailhead. But we happened to venture deeper into the canyon and/or turn around the entire length, haha.
May 6, 2022 at 11:16
Well done for completing that loop, even if it was a second attempt. Love the video of Maya trying to work out how to get to the other side without having to swim.
Was the water in those pools all the same temperature? I was wondering if the temp of the water had anything to do with the colour? I guess it was freshwater rather than salty? In any case, some of those pools look refreshing.
Another beautiful place on our planet that I had no idea existed, Liesbet. Thank you for sharing it with us all.
May 8, 2022 at 22:40
Hi Hugh,
I’m glad you liked the video. I’ve actually been filming some parts of our adventures, but I never do anything with it. One day… 🙂
Good question! The water in the pools of the canyon is fresh and all the same temperature: chilly! Which was very surprising in the desert with daytime temperatures of around 80 degrees Fahrenheit and night time temperatures in the upper fifties. We kept wondering why it was so refreshing. Even in the stagnant pools. Maybe because most of them are in the shade all day?
We took a shower in the clearest one. Of course, we still had to wade through murkier ones afterwards.
May 6, 2022 at 17:20
Liesbet, This looks like a cool hike, and it’s great that you were able to do it twice. Thank you for sharing your photos and video with us.
May 8, 2022 at 22:42
Natalie, I think this hike would be right up your alley! It contains many elements for a perfect day out. 🙂
May 11, 2022 at 17:30
Love the video and the photos, Liesbet. What an incredible landscape!
May 11, 2022 at 19:08
Thanks, Deb! It was a special hike and an even more special experience…
May 11, 2022 at 20:07
What gorgeous scenery. And who could blame Maya for finally caving. I’m sure she was plenty hot, lol. <3
May 12, 2022 at 17:21
The water cooled Maya down, but she’s so funny about getting her feet wet… On the other hand, she can’t stand being separated from Mark, so eventually that wins. 🙂
May 13, 2022 at 11:45
Too cute. Maybe she doesn’t like dirty feet, lol 🙂
May 13, 2022 at 17:06
Right… I know we don’t like (her) dirty feet! 🙂
May 12, 2022 at 11:51
Seeing the pics was a joy. Thanks for sharing. 🙂
May 12, 2022 at 17:22
My pleasure, Anna. Our extended travels in Baja California this past winter were “blissful.” 🙂