Roaming About

A Life Less Ordinary

A Trio of Quaint Historic Towns in Colombia – Santa Fe de Antioquia, Jericó, and Jardín (Our All-time Favorite)

All three towns have been declared pueblos patrimonios in Colombia (because they stand out for their cultural heritage) and are worth a visit. Medellin is centrally located for attractive day or weekend trips to these destinations in the Department of Antioquia. Or, in our case, for continued travels to explore Colombia. A fourth highlight, Guatapé, sits two hours east and was part of my Medellin post. Santa Fe de Antioquia can be found an hour and a half to the northwest. You reach Jericó after a three-hour southward drive and Jardin is a tad further away, about 3.5 hours to the south.

Historic towns around Medellin

Santa Fe de Antioquia

As a former capital of Colombia and a national monument, Santa Fe de Antioquia is a popular place. It is a beautiful, eye-catching, and photogenic city of 23,000 inhabitants. But there is one problem. For us anyway. Its climate is tropical and humid, due to its low elevation in the Cauca River valley and proximity to the equator. It was in the mid-nineties when we arrived (35°C)!

(As always hover over or click on photos in galleries to read their captions.)

Our first “meeting” with the town didn’t go well. Checking the map for the best route to a free overnight parking spot we had found in our free app iOverlander, we’d picked a one-way road towards our site, thinking it would be wide enough and less littered with haphazardly parked cars. We were right, but… the road went steep uphill and, without any indication, was blocked by road work! We couldn’t go around it. We couldn’t turn around. We couldn’t back up, down this steep and bumpy road without visibility. All the while, motorcycles kept passing us (they could go through) and lined-up cars behind us kept honking.

I enabled a neighbor’s help to open the locked gate of his driveway and guided Mark to safely turn around. We headed back the way we came and my husband was ready to abandon our planned visit. I persisted. We were all sweating (and panting), there was no shade anywhere, and options to camp were limited. On foot, I checked out a parqueadero (parking lot) that abutted the historic center. Big buses and trucks were parked there, so we would fit. We just needed to navigate one more narrow road. Mark obliged and we hid inside our camper, fans on full speed, for the rest of the afternoon.

When the temperature dropped slightly and darkness set in, the three of us quickly walked through the center of town. Unfortunately, the moods didn’t improve. Being kept awake all night by arriving and departing buses, garbage trucks, and dump trucks didn’t help the situation by morning. Mark had had it with this place, so I ventured back into the historic part early and for just one hour. Then, we moved on. Did I mention it was Mark’s birthday?

Jardín

Little did we know upon arrival that Jardín would become our favorite pueblo in Colombia. Mark, Maya, and I settled in Thirsty Bella along a quiet street on the outskirts of town and stayed for ten (!) days. A record on the road in South America. It rained a lot and the no-see-ums were relentless (long clothes offer the best protection), but other than that, we LOVED this place. Why?

The vibe is fabulous, the people are friendly, the houses are super cute, the sidewalks are clean, and the plaza is vibrant, attractive, and a fun place to be, especially in the evenings.

Plenty of high-quality restaurants and cafes abound, meals are affordable, fresh local produce is abundant, and our favorite grocery stores D1 and Ara were within walking distance, as well as an amazing bakery that produced decent baguettes and sweet and savory pastries.

To top it all off, plenty of hiking paths, waterfalls, mountains, and stunning scenery surround this little hamlet. The fact that we could just walk out the door and find ourselves in nature – or at a decent restaurant – within five minutes has been quite unique on our six-month Colombian journey. And it was all super enjoyable, as long as we could skirt around the rainstorms.

Jericó

There are shortcuts to reach Jericó from Jardín but with a rig our size, it made more sense to return the way we came, down the mountain, and then up and around to our third historic town in a row. Before we reached Jericó proper, however, we passed a small and jovial site famous for paragliding (Nube Extrema). I had decided to turn this activity into my postponed birthday gift and we paid for one night of camping. That evening, we met a hospitable bunch of locals, who took us out for dinner.

It was my first time to jump off a mountain with an instructor in tow. We waited until the weather cleared and off we went for a 25-minute soar over and into the Cauca River valley. From high(s) to low(s). From cold to steaming hot. From feeling healthy to being incredibly motion sick. The extremes of fun and discomfort, packaged in a $50, 2-hour event. The speedy, windy ride back up the mountain was the worst part, but I’m glad to have experienced paragliding in such a beautiful environment and with such a highly skilled, friendly, and caring instructor named Juan Carlos.

Video of Liesbet and instructor Juan Carlos taking off into the valley
Video in the air

After all that excitement, the three of us moved to Jericó’s mirador (viewpoint) for a couple of free and relatively peaceful nights. From the Christ statue, we had a decent view over the hilly town. Walking down to the village center, we passed through an attractive botanical garden.

Once emerged into the historic center, we enjoyed strolling the colorful streets and different levels that make up this attractive town. Maya’s toe nail was still not healed, so she and I took a one-dollar tuk tuk ride back up the mountain, while Mark walked. He loves his exercise more than me!

Curious about a previous ten-year chapter in our nomadic lives, which includes eight years aboard a 35-foot sailboat in the tropics with dogs, check out my compelling, inspiring, and refreshingly honest travel memoir:

Plunge – One Woman’s Pursuit of a Life Less Ordinary

Available on Amazon and elsewhere

eBook: US$ 5.99

Paperback: US$ 13.99

28 Comments

  1. Wow. Such cute towns. And the landscapes – so lush and green with those rolling hills, they just seem like picture postcards.

    And, of course, your flight was amazing. Sorry you felt sick. What an experience. What a perfect place to try paragliding.

    Love all the pics.

    • I think the historic pueblos are what stand out in Colombia. There are so many and it’s difficult to pick a favorite. But, if we ever settle in this country, it will be in Jardin. And, yes, we did check out a few properties online. 🙂

  2. Thank you, Lisbet. I love reading your travel experiences. My wife Ursula and I traveled South America in a VW Bus in 1974-75. One of the best decisions we ever made. The takeaway from your blog is that: in general not much has changed, it just got more expensive. We did 60,337 km in 13 months for $5,991 (including the shipping from Colón to Cartagena for 3 people + the van).

    • Hi Heinz,

      Welcome to Roaming About and thank you for following our adventures and engaging in the comments.

      Wow, you explored South America in the year I was born. That is a long, long time ago. I’m glad you had an amazing time and that you think not much has changed since then. I’m sure the population has grown and facilities have expanded. And of course, life got more expensive. We have even seen an uptick in prices during our recent six months in Colombia.

      Mark and I (and two dogs at the time) explored Mexico and Central America in 2006 and back then is was even much different than now, especially regarding resources to find camping spots and the lack of internet.

  3. Loved your Paragliding experience/videos!

  4. You did jump! You brave soul.
    Sorry Mark’s birthday wasn’t much fun. At least the other towns were really nice.

    • Haha, Alex. When I have something holding me up (the sail), I don’t have to be brave to jump. It’s a tad more scary to jump out of a plane and even more scary to bungee jump. 🙂

      Luckily, we had a nice evening on Mark’s birthday, after a few trials during the day and no-see-um wise. We persevered to have a nice dinner and drinks out.

  5. This does all make me wish for a slower, easier lifestyle. I am thankful my life isn’t as complicated as it used to be!

  6. Hurrah for tropical scenery, adventure in paragliding, and Mark’s birthday! Fie on blocked roads and noisy nights.

    • Hi Marian,

      All in all, we loved Colombia and it taught us to be determined, hardy, and tolerant. 🙂

      If we ever return it’s to explore the areas we didn’t visit and to live in Jardin for a bit.

  7. Hi Liesbet, Wow!! You know how to fit a lot of life into everything you do. How brave to be gliding around. Sheesh, I probably would have passed out for the whole thing. 🙂 But the scenery you saw was spectacular. I love all the pictures and hope Maya’s nail is healed soon. Happy Belated Birthday to Mark.

    • Hi Lea,

      Thank you for visiting, still following along, and commenting again! I’ve missed you. 🙂

      I sure feel like we have been very busy the last few months, what with keeping our life going, sightseeing, driving, dealing with difficult situations, work, writing, and so much more. Never a dull moment here, but, as I’ve told myself so many times, I will never ever get bored!

      Maya’s toenail has healed by now. I’m still about two months behind with my blogs. We have just arrived in Ecuador, after six months in Colombia!

      • Liesbet, I love following your blog, commenting and having conversations with you. I just have a hard time keeping up with … well everything these days. But even if you don’t hear from me for a while you aren’t getting rid of me that easily. LOL! 🙂

        You are the adventurer. Your life is so very different from mine. I’ve mentioned before I’m a caregiver to a loved one. We are pretty much homebound. Not complaining, just explaining.

        I’m happy to hear that Maya’s toe nail is healed. Enjoy Ecuador!! I’m looking forward to reading about your adventures. Be well and safe travels.

        • Lea,

          I’m delighted to have you here and to keep having you as one of my most trusted and supportive followers. 🙂

          Yes, you’ve mentioned the caregiving part before. It’s so very tough – I have a lot of respect for you and I feel Mark and I will be in your shoes one day. So far, we’ve only cared for loved ones to a lesser extend and for shorter periods of time.

          Ecuador has been lovely. I can’t wait to catch up with my Colombia blog posts, so I can start showing photos of this country. My next expense report (of May) will cover our last week in Colombia and the first three in Ecuador.

          Hugs from very close to the equator!!!

  8. Very pretty towns. I can see why you liked Jardin.

    • I’m glad you agree, Anabel. I often wish more people I know could experience these cute Colombian towns, but then again, everyone will want to move here and it would get too crowded or gringofied! 🙂

  9. Hi, Liesbet- I am continuing to love following the candid highs and lows of your travels. I can see why you especially liked Jardin. Clean, friendly, vibrant, super cute — it sounds awesome!

    • Hi Donna,

      Jardin is pretty awesome, except for the rains and bugs. Between you and me, we might come back here for a longer period of time. But, let’s see how the rest of South America pans out first. 🙂

  10. I have no idea what no-see-ums are. But I’m guessing they are some kind of biting insect given that you wore long clothes. And 35C and humid? Nightmare time for me.

    But what beautiful scenery and views from your photos, Liesbet. Looks like you guys are having plenty of fun times too even when things like blocked roads get in the way.

    Well done on the paragliding. I think I would have wasted my money by keeping my eyes closed all the time.

    • Haha. You’re funny about the paragliding, Hugh. It’s actually a very relaxing experience as you float in the air. Much less scary than skydiving or bungee jumping. A friend of ours with a fear of heights managed to enjoy it as well, recently. As long as you don’t get motion sick!

      Yes, no-see-ums are tiny biting bugs that leave welts and itchiness for weeks after feasting on you. They are also called no-nos (in French Polynesia), gnats, and sand fleas (down under). Maybe in the UK you know them as gnats.

      I guess the crazy encounters on the roads are what is keeping our lives exciting right now. We all know that this lifestyle can’t all be glorious and fabulous, right? 🙂

  11. It’s interesting how little things can make or break an impression of a place! Jardin does look lovely, and everything just came together for you there. Glad you found a spot to hunker down in for a nice long stretch. And paragliding! I have done some adventurous stuff, but for some reason paragliding always gives me pause. Good for you for making that your birthday gift!

    • Hi Lexie,

      Of all adventurous sports, I think paragliding is a benign one. You just float in the air and someone else is in control. It’s much, much, much less scary than skydiving or bungee jumping and it’s less exhilarating than whitewater rafting. You might like to give it a try one day.

      And you are right about the little things – and often our moods play a role as well – making or breaking a place. Sometimes, it’s just a feeling, sometimes things line up, and sometimes nothing seems to work out, which makes us leave and not with the greatest impression.

  12. Great paragliding video. We had our experience in Medellin and loved it. Its so peaceful up there! Glad you got to see these 3 historical towns. Jardin was one of our favorites as well.

    • Hi Susan,

      Haha. I was surprised to see a new comment on an “old” blog. I’m glad you enjoyed your visit to Jardin with your mom as well. We have been thinking about that cute pueblo a lot and even considered returning there once Mark comes back from the US. But, it’s a long drive from Ibarra (three days) and we are not ready to just “sit and be” for a while, as that’s what we would focus on back in Jardin. And, look for property. We are not ready for that either. 🙂 Time to explore a bit more next month!

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