Roaming About

A Life Less Ordinary

Cusco & Surroundings in Peru – As Overlanders

Most overlanders (RVers, campers) who visit Cusco stay at the campground Quinta Lala above town. It’s possible to walk to the city center from there and then have a tough climb back home, at 12,000ft elevation, or take a $3 cab ride. 

Mark and I decided to spend our first handful of days closer to the historic district, at a free parking area, a few blocks from the main square, Plaza de Armas. It was the perfect location to run errands and explore the beautiful heart of Cusco.

(As always, hover over or click on photos in galleries to read their captions.)

We managed to get heaps of laundry done affordably (after hauling it up many steps to the drop-off store), but this required checking several of the numerous laundry places, as they cheat you with their scales, and multiple walks back and forth, since the task lasted longer than promised.

It took us a few days to find the right materials – in addition to parts brought from the US by a friend – for our Starlink mounting project. A couple of big grocery stores and the central market, as well as a wonderful bakery, Cosqo Maki, were within walking distance. 

And, our Italian friends Valeria and Davide joined us after their terrible radiator problem came to a happy end. We explored town together and shared a few yummy meals – and drinks.

We also met up with our friends Lauren and Ryan from Lima for drinks and to receive parts she’d brought for us from the US.

Of course, this parking spot – and Cusco – was not perfect. To get here, we needed to navigate incredibly narrow roads, something we consciously had tried to avoid. Luckily, no roof tiles, overhanging signs, or campers were damaged in the process.

We came down one of these roads with Thirsty Bella

Despite Cusco being tourist central of Peru – and therefore plenty of money enters this area – trash piles could be found anywhere, usually on sidewalk corners but also strewn about everywhere. You’d think this city could invest in some dumpsters to at least keep the streets clean and the loose dogs from making an even bigger mess.

Around the main square and the adjacent streets hawkers constantly barrage you with their offerings, from massages, to tours, to restaurant food, to trinkets and other souvenirs. Even after seeing our faces – and that of Maya, who is very recognizable – multiple days in a row, these “assaults” never stopped. 

The worst assault on our senses, however, happened at our parking spot. It was adjacent to where every bus driver stopped to pee behind his vehicle. Some car drivers did the same, relieving themselves behind their open door. It was so disgusting that we eventually had to leave; our noses couldn’t take the stench anymore. 

We’ve never been in a country (apart from India for me), where so many men pee in public. From the sides of the roads throughout Peru, to alleys and parking lots in cities like Cusco, to the grass of Plaza de Armas at night! And we – and our friends – were yelled at for walking on the grass or having our dogs stroll the sidewalks (on leash and being picked up after!). It was a bit surprising to feel unwelcome in this area, where locals rely on “tourist dollars.” Are some of the locals tired of the mass tourism in this region?

After about a week of living in Cusco proper, our trio moved to Quinta Lala to take care of camper projects, relax, and sightsee. The plan was to pay for six nights at the campground, but we ended up staying nine!

The main reason for this delay was both of us being pretty sick for a week. Still, we had a full agenda and to-do list, so we stuck to these tasks, albeit a bit slower than usual. We took the camper off to work on the truck and be able to use it for transportation. 

Changing a piece of our brake assembly

We replaced a part on one of the rear brakes and drove into town for more grocery shopping and an oil change. Like in Colombia, when you buy motor oil in Peru, the work is included. This was a disaster. Again. In Colombia, they had overfilled the oil reservoir, so Mark had to carefully and cleanly let some out the following day. Here, in Cusco, there were multiple issues.

First, the mechanic told us that the “professionals” in Colombia overtightened the screw of the oil pan, so it was stripped. He took the screw to a machine shop nearby and managed to get it cleaned up enough to plug the pan. We hoped the threads of the oil pan weren’t stripped as well.

Then, we discovered that the lady at the shop gave us the wrong quote for the Mobile 1 oil we requested. The total amount would now be much higher. She also blamed us for the mistake, while we – obviously – showed her the correct containers of oil we needed. We are very adamant about what we put in our truck. She did not agree to split the difference or come down in price, as she didn’t want to lose face – or her job – with her boss over the phone. It was clear by that point that she had made a mistake. 

The next issue was that we didn’t have enough cash on us… (Our extra money was in the camper.) We’d had plenty for the quoted amount but now that this had been upped a bunch, we were about 10 soles short ($3). She couldn’t even help with that, so Mark walked to a cash machine fifteen minutes away. 

Collecting all of our Peruvian cash – it’s not enough for the oil!

This is just an example of dealing with car maintenance in South America and how everything always takes much longer than planned with twice the energy. Having to argue in Spanish while you’re not feeling well is super exhausting!

Permanently installing our new Starlink satellite internet system was a three-day project, between the cutting of the dish, fixing it under a hatch inside the camper, and the tricky Ethernet wiring. During it all, we dealt with our second hail storm. 

I made sure all our clothes were washed (by hand) again before leaving the campground, we replaced a tail light of the truck, and Mark needed a visa to enter Bolivia (our next country), which was described to take fifteen minutes. We figured we’d do it here in Cusco and skip the one- to two-hour extra hassle at the border. Right…

Despite still being sick, I decided to join my husband for moral support or help with the language. Maybe good I did? Maybe not? The three of us jumped in the car for an early arrival at the Bolivian consulate on a Friday, before a long weekend. Even with just our (big) truck, navigating the tight city is tricky. 

After parking the car and leaving Maya in it (this would only take fifteen minutes, thirty tops, right?), we walked to the consulate and were greeted by a sign stating that the office was closed in the morning, due to staff training. It would open again at noon.

Mark and I hunted down an overpriced copy shop to make copies of documents that he had already sent in digitally, as requested. Then, Mark waited by the door, while I retrieved Maya. Staff was giggling inside the building, left to run errands, and greeted Mark while at it. The main guy (which we read many negative reviews about) left as well and locked the door. 

When he returned an hour later, he gave Mark a piece of paper with the amount to pay at a bank (US$160 for Americans; US$30 for most other nationalities needing the visa; Europeans don’t need one) and instructed him to return with the receipt. Progress! More people had now arrived, so he quickly locked the door and left again. It was 11am.

We took care of the payment and returned to the consulate as the line of visa seekers grew. Luckily, we’d gotten there early, so were first in line. We still hoped to be back at the campground by lunch; we had a lot to do.

At noon, nobody showed up. Grumpy Guy arrived around 12:30pm, took a photo of the massive line waiting for him (they only issue 20 visas per day), and opened the door. Mark walked over, handed in his passport, copied paperwork, and fee receipt, and… was told to come back at 3pm. 

We nearly lost it at this point. But when mentioning he wasn’t comfortable leaving his passport here, Mark almost got all the documents thrown at his face, so we quickly gathered our wits and told Grumpy we’d be back by 3pm. There went another day in Cusco. 

It’s all about (the wrong) expectations. If we knew this would have taken hours, we would have just dealt with the visa at the Bolivian border. Mark and I had a nice and affordable lunch out and found a park to walk our dog. It wasn’t all bad.

Maya and I waited in the car, while Mark picked up his visa (just a small sticker in his passport) before 3pm. Most other tourists had beaten him to it and, according to Mark, the scene was strange, with everyone at the office taking selfies and laughing. And did I mention that the ladies of the office also offered a pay service to “help” applicants with the online process?

During one of our nine days at the campground, we went sightseeing in the afternoon. The regarded Sacsayhuaman archeological site was next door, but we never found the time and energy to visit it. Instead, we focused on the other nearby sites: Q’enqo, Puka Pukara, and Tambomachay. Maya stayed home.

These destinations belonged to the Inca civilization and were each visited within half an hour. Q’enqo appeared like a group of massive rocks and offered passage through narrow areas resembling a maze. One room was intact, with stone benches and a platform for human sacrifices. A second site was free to visit and offered a park-like setting popular with locals.

Puka Pukara, also called the Red Fortress because the stones take on a red hue during sunset, was cool to climb. From above, we spotted the remaining walls of different rooms. 

Our favorite of the three sites was Tambomachay, which might have been a resort destination for the Incas, with its water features and terraced layout. The walls were well-preserved and – again – we marveled at the way the rocks and stones fit nicely together. None of the attractions around Cusco – or in the Sacred Valley – provide on-site information.

With our intended projects and chores finished and with a good feel for Cusco and its environs, we loaded camper Bella back on truck Thirsty and headed into the Sacred Valley, Peru’s most popular and touristy destination…

Next up: The Sacred Valley as overlanders. (Or our monthly expense report for October 2023)

Curious about a previous ten-year chapter in our nomadic lives, which includes eight years aboard a 35-foot sailboat in the tropics with dogs, check out my compelling, inspiring, and refreshingly honest travel memoir:

Plunge – One Woman’s Pursuit of a Life Less Ordinary

Available on Amazon and elsewhere

eBook: US$ 5.99

Paperback: US$ 13.99

44 Comments

  1. Hi Liesbet! Great report (and photos) about your time in Cusco–including the good the bad and the ugly!!! Interesting to see how even in a pretty and popular town there are still really strange customs. Do they have much of an expat community? I can see where some of those customs would make it difficult for most westerners to live there. And bummer about getting sick. That makes EVERYTHING more difficult. Hope you are both feeling healthy again. ~Kathy

    • Hi Kathy,

      Expats in Peru either seem to live in Lima (mostly for work) or in Cusco, which appears to be the most attractive city in the country. There are a few expat Facebook groups, so I’m quite sure this is where they congregate. The climate is alright, despite its altitude at 12,000ft. It’s warm during the day and chilly at night. Plus, the surroundings of the Sacred Valley makes day trips easy.

      I have come to realize that our experiences in a camper and as an integral part of the landscape and towns is very different from staying in hotels, Airbnbs, or apartments. So, I have to imagine that life as an expat in Cusco is much more comfortable – and probably, enjoyable – as well. 🙂

      We are feeling better now. Thanks for asking!

  2. petespringerauthor

    October 26, 2023 at 13:43

    Very strange not to feel welcome when tourism should be an essential part of their economy. The whole consulate experience sounds like a nightmare. Dealing with the language barriers and a system that seems to prey on foreigners must have been terribly frustrating.

    • Hi Pete,

      Most people in Cusco are friendly, luckily. We just found it more ironic than unwelcoming how we were told to not do certain things – like stepping on the grass – while (drunken) locals pee on that same grass at night. Or, when we are frowned upon walking our dogs on the sidewalks (on leash), while hundreds of strays do the same, pooping and barking all over. Oh well.

      The Spanish language barrier can get tiring, but at the same time, I wish I was fluent at it. Speaking and reading are okay these days, but understanding everything remains hard. We are pretty tired by nightfall, each day…

  3. Lots of differences from a home country. I hate change so wouldn’t do well with the need for flexibility. You did well.

    • Hi Jacqui,

      This lifestyle thrives on change and flexibility. It can get tiring at times. Luckily, we have our own home and bed with us and we can shut the door – and lock it. We even have a decent fan to block out most noises. 🙂 I feel like I don’t remember much of our home countries, haha.

      The luxury and convenience and comforts of the US and Belgium can be attractive at times, but the feeling of entitlement and taking things for granted can become bit appalling at other times.

  4. I’m glad to hear you’ve had a few positive experiences, but all in all I’m not getting a good impression of South America. Fingers crossed that things go smoothly for you for a while!

    • Thanks, Diane. We admit we liked Colombia and Ecuador better than Peru. But, we have discovered some real gems in this country. They (almost) make the challenges and disappointments worthwhile, haha. Stay tuned! 🙂

  5. I’m sorry you faced so many challenges in Cusco… at least you didn’t mention firecrackers.

    I hope the two of you are feeling better and that the Sacred Valley lived up to its billing… there is a reason it’s so touristy, of course 🙂

    • Hi Janis,

      You are so right! Few firecrackers. At the campground, we didn’t hear any, but during the weekends, big “real” fireworks were launched at the Plaza de Armas in Cusco. Once just after we had let Maya pee in the grass (without leash, as people are not allowed to walk on that grass) and we had just put her back on, when a salvo exploded above our heads. Maya was super freaked out, but we were so happy and fortunate to have her attached to us by then, or she would have bolted, who knows where to!

      (On the same, sad, topic, overlanding friends of ours recently lost their dog in Bolivia, because she got spooked by firecrackers, bolted to a highway, and was killed by a car. Our worst nightmare…)

      In general, the firecrackers have been manageable. But, this last week, people shot them off right next to the camper a few times. We will see how it all progresses as this year comes to an end!

      The Sacred Valley was pretty incredible! 🙂

  6. The ruins are really cool.
    Such a mess with the Visa. And the oil change. Once again you have convinced me touring South America that way is not for me. Europe, now that I would do!

    • Haha, Alex! Yes, Europe sounds much more straightforward and comfortable. But, crazy expensive! We are used to the challenges of this lifestyle and, luckily, the good outweighs the bad, still. Sometimes, we do get exhausted and fed up.

  7. Hi, Liesbet – I am sorry you and Mark have not been feeling well. Sending warm vibes that you are both better soon. Your incredible patience and talent for dealing with convoluted and frustrating situations is remarkable. I remain in awe. <3
    See you in The Sacred Valley!

    • Hi Donna,

      Thank you for the well wishes. I’m happy to report that we are feeling much better now. I can admit that there is sometimes a lot of cursing in this household (usually in the car) when things go wrong. 🙂

      Happy to have you come along on our (first) whirlwind trip through the Sacred Valley!

  8. Hi Liesbet, I enjoyed my stay in Cusco and visits to Sacsayhuaman and Tambomachay several years ago. At that time there was no visible trash in and around Cusco and I found local people friendly without being pushy. It’s too bad that things seem to have changed for the worse there. I hope you enjoy the Sacred Valley. Safe travels!

    • Hi Natalie,

      Yes, we enjoyed our two-day trip through the Sacred Valley, visiting the highlights with our tourist pass. And, we look forward to returning. But more about that later. 🙂

      I think the mass tourism is getting a bit much in that region. As for the garbage, this is how they collect the trash in the entire city of Cusco, including the historic center: on the corners of the sidewalks. As opposed to other cities, like Puno, where dumpsters can be find throughout town.

      It’s so strange and counterintuitive to me. The garbage truck workers already have a nasty job when the trash is in cans or containers. Now, they have to pick everything up by hand and sweep up the small particles as well. It’s such gross and demeaning work. 🙁

  9. Cusco looks like a beautiful city, sorry to hear they were not very welcoming. Wow, how fortunate you two were that Lauren and Ryan could bring parts from the US. Once again you mentioned unleashed dogs running around. It breaks our heart to see this. Carmen experienced the same ‘open urinating’ while she grew up in Italy in the mid 1960s. She too couldn’t understand how it was allowed and how disgusting the smell could get while walking down the road. Tambomachay is fascinating! Thanks for sharing. Jim

    • Hi Jim,

      Cusco is a very popular place. And, yes, we’ve been quite lucky with all the friends we’ve made and who are actually returning to or visiting Cusco soon. Next month, there will be four sets of people/friends flying into Cusco from abroad – two from Canada, one from the US, and one from Belgium.

      But, even though we need a few parts again, shipping to Canada is expensive and there is the import duty, one friend I might not be able to make it back for, the Belgians are family and Amazon is just not the same there, and we don’t want to overburden the Americans with more than small parts.

      I have a feeling that one of us will have to fly back to the US within the next six months, not in the least because Mark’s computer has serious issues….

      Just today, we had Peruvians pee by a lake, within view of our camper. It’s just a thing here, unfortunately. But that parking area in Cusco was truly disgusting. When we go back, we need to move further away from “pee alley.”

      Most dogs in South America move around freely. Many are actually owned. Some of them appear happy as well. Luckily, it’s not all a sad scene with the strays and loose dogs. The worst is all the dead ones we drive by along the busy roads…

  10. Liesbet, your photos of Cusco are a wonderful walk down memory lane for us. We loved our time there, and luckily, were able to enjoy all the good stuff without all the mechanical and visa grief you guys had to endure. In addition to the architecture and laid back atmosphere around the plaza, I remember a small restaurant near our hotel that sold grilled chicken and huge baskets of french fries that were wonderful. I was sure they were laced with some magic drugs because they tasted so good.

    Your account of your experiences, both good and bad, make you and Mark the poster children for adventure travelers. Buen viaje. ~James

    • Hi James,

      I’m glad my post about Cusco brought back good memories for you. I have certainly come to realize that traveling by plane and visiting the highlights as a tourist on vacation is very different from exploring the countries (in depth) by vehicle. That’s certainly less of a vacation, haha. But, of course, financially this mode of travel makes the most sense for us. So, we have to take the bad with the good. The food in Cusco – as in Lima – is wonderful!!

  11. These are great memories. Thank you for sharing them. I really enjoyed reading your post and the photos.

    • Hi Carol,

      Thanks for swinging by and leaving a comment. I’m glad you enjoyed the post and my putting things in perspective, as always. And, I hope you’ll keep following our adventures. 🙂

  12. Great post and your photos brought back many memories. I really enjoyed Cusco and can fully believe the “paid” visa service. Scams are everywhere in South America but we’ve spoken about that subject. We stayed in Cusco acclimatising for the 5-day Salkantay trek to Machu Picchu.

    Not unlike boats, something always needs repairing in a motorhome/campervan. We had the starter motor die in Reg in Pozzuoli (near Naples, Italy). The mechanic was fixing the van under torchlight at the camping ground!

    Hope you guys are feeling better. My partner picked up some sort of bug in Argentina at the start of the 10 months in South America, but it stayed with him for almost the whole time. He lost so much weight and couldn’t keep any food down or stop running to the toilet. The Dr there gave him a course of antibiotics and it stopped briefly but then came back. Although he got a full check-up when we returned to Australia, the Dr couldn’t find anything wrong – bizarre.

    • Hi Nilla,

      So cool that you did the Salkantay trek! I’m actually hearing more about that hike than the formerly popular Inca Trail these days.

      You are right about campers being similar to boats when it comes to fixing things. Yet, we feel that on land, our list usually can get completed, while on the sailboat, from the moment we fixed something, another part would break. The salty environment is so darn harsh. Plus, life is easier on land than on the water. But, of course, we miss certain parts of the sailing life. Like you, I assume.

      So sorry to read about your partner’s health situation down here. That was a long road. Luckily, this didn’t happen to us and we are feeling better. Still suffering from the high altitude once in a while, but that is our own choice. We are sleeping at 14,000ft these days and that can be tough. And really cold! Time to descend to a Arequipa soon!

      • So true, life on land is easier than life on a boat, but yes, I do miss that lifestyle. Although I’m making up for it with more travel. 😉
        The Salkanty trek wasn’t as popular as the much-traversed/thrashed Inca Trail back in 2011, so I can only imagine how busy it is these days.
        I remember the Salkantay trek as if it was yesterday.
        I love Arequipa! Check out my post if you have the time.

        • You sure get to see more places and countries when traveling overland. And, the weather isn’t as big of an issue. Will check out your Arequipa post. We are taking the “slow road” from Puno to Arequipa – a three-day gravel road through amazing scenery. Tonight, we are camping next to a salt flat, surrounded by vicuñas, at 14,300ft. The highest we ever slept, I think. Let’s see if we can breathe throughout the night, haha.

          • Agree but you don’t get to see those untouched islands, beaches, reefs, etc., that you see when you’re on a private boat.

            Ah, Puno, we travelled there also and may have an old post on Puno on my site, just do a search or go to Destinations>South America and it’s there in the 450 posts somewhere! 😉
            Safe travels, I’m off to volunteer today.

            • Hi Nilla!

              What you get to see when sailing is super unique and precious. Maybe we will return to that lifestyle again, once we “forget” all the challenges, haha.

              I’ve been checking and reading your posts about Peru, but for some reason, the “like” button doesn’t appear/work on your site. I can’t believe you hiked Colca Canyon! That’s where we are now, but doing some trails at the top is all I can muster!

              • Ha, ha, loads of challenges, but worthwhile – think I’m missing living on a boat! 😉

                Thank you for reading my posts on Peru. They’re in the old WP format so the formatting is mucked up – I’m apologising in advance.
                Ah, that issue with the Like button should be fixed now as it was a conflict with a plugin. Technology!

                The Colca is an amazing trek. We did that one first, then 2 weeks later, did the 5-day Salkantay trek. Talk about masochists!
                I believe Yudy still runs those treks and is still a guide. If you haven’t already booked, I can hook you up on FaceBook as she will look after you. I believe she hails from the area and knows the Colca like the back of her hand. 😉

                • Hi Nilla,

                  We are not doing any treks in Peru. I can’t handle the headaches that come with this kind of exertion and we are on a pretty tight budget, which has been hard in Peru, because of the high fuel costs and all the driving we are doing – and some unexpected expenses. But thanks for the recommendation.

                  We’ve done a lot of short hikes to viewpoints, ruins, and such along the Colca Canyon. I think we will camp here one more night (it’s been cold!) and then slowly return to Cusco.

                  • That sounds like a great plan.

                    I remember when we sailed to Venezuela, the diesel was very cheap (in 2008), but you needed an “agent” to buy the drums of diesel as a foreign boat couldn’t buy it directly from the wharf pumps. Of course, the agent added his cut, but it was still cheap.

                    I really enjoyed the Colca Canyon trek albeit the 5kms almost straight up was pretty hard.
                    Enjoy Cusco again…

                    • Thank you. This time, we will be able to take our time in Cusco and hopefully relax a bit with my family. It’s sounding like somewhat of a vacation to me, but we will see…

                  • Sounds lovely. I didn’t know your family live in Cusco – lucky you. 😉

                    • No family in Cusco, Nilla. My cousin and her husband will join us here for two weeks of explorations and “vacation.” 🙂 Then, they return to Belgium and we get on the road south again, to Bolivia.

  13. One of my favorite cities and environs ever – sorry it was not quite so appealing overall for you guys. I should have sent the name of my favorite pizza place/bar!Surely the Sacred Valley towns were a hit?! One of the most peaceful and naturally gorgeous places I’ve been.

    • Hi Lexie,

      I was actually thinking about you on our drive yesterday, and how you are a part of our voyage because of your sticker on the ceiling! 🙂

      We totally understand why tourists love Cusco and the Sacred Valley. We just always seem to see all sides of each destination we visit or travel through. For good or for bad. We immerse ourselves. But, you are right, The Sacred Valley towns and ruins were a true hit! 🙂

      Feel free to send me your favorite pizza place/bar in Cusco, as we are going back for a while soon!

      • Hope this is not too late … we’ve been busy reorganizing our entire lives. (Dramatic, but true). The pizza place is Chez Maggy, just off the main square. Tiny little hole in the wall.

        • Hi Lexie,

          Thank you. It’s not too late. We plan to return to Cusco for a few weeks this coming weekend. We’re camped by the Colca Canyon right now. We will definitely check out Chez Maggy. A hole in the wall sounds just perfect!

          Now you made me curious about this reorganization of your lives. Are you moving to Colorado? Elsewhere?

  14. Wow, what a journey. You guys have had sooooooooo many obstacles on that continent. Yet you are warriors. 🙂 I hope you are feeling better. <3

    • Hi Debby,

      Other than having to blow our nose still (maybe it’s the high altitude?), I think we are pretty much healed from our being sick in Cusco.

      Yes, this continent has been challenging, but that’s why we are conquering it while we are still “young.” Haha! I guess I’m feeling a bit better mentally these days, after a pretty tough month.

  15. I can’t understand why those people would want to make you feel so unwelcome when their livelihoods depend on tourism. How strange.

    As for trying to get a visa to enter Bolivia, it sounded like a nightmare. Mr Grumpy sounds like a jobsworth. I think the power has gone to his head.

    Your photography is amazing. I almost feel like I’m there with you.

    I hope you’re both feeling much better now.

    • Hi Hugh,

      The Peruvians have been an interesting bunch…. Very different from other South American people we have met. I think a lot has to do with lack of education. Seriously, the stories and experiences we can share (but won’t) about that…

      A lot of officials love (and abuse) their power. It’s a strange thing, but one that can leave you frustrated and helpless. Some things (and people) we just have to deal with. While getting the visa for Mark took all day and was an ordeal, it did come in handy when we needed it at the Bolivian border, recently… But that’s a (stressful) story for another time.

      Yes, we are healed now. Thanks for the well wishes! xox

  16. Wow! I didn’t realize that you actually cut into the Starlink. You all are crazy brave. Glad it worked out and hop it is still working well for you!

    I’m trying to catch up! I started readying this blog when you published it but got interrupted and never made my way back.

    Any ways, I hope you are updating iOverlander with the honest laundries. I admire you tenacity to find the most honest one.

    I love the ruins.

    • Hi Duwan,

      Yes, the Starlink project was a big one, as much for the hardware “adjustments” as the wiring inside the camper. But, it has really paid off! We have been able to get internet pretty much everywhere – and love it!

      We are adding a lot of new comments to iOverlander, mostly about camping, because a lot of entries haven’t been updated since before the pandemic.

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