Ever since seeing photos of Monument Valley (was it on a calendar, a poster, in a guide book?) years ago, I’ve wanted to visit this Tribal Park in Navajo Nation. So, when Mark and I left Southwestern Utah to drive to a house sit in Albuquerque, New Mexico, we decided to make the detour and explore this park on the Utah-Arizona border. We read that the 17-mile loop drive is in horrible condition and that biking is the best way to see and experience the sites. Perfect! We’d taken Zesty on enough rocky roads lately.
As we approached the area, massive rock formations sprang to life along the road—a taste of what was to come. These eroded sandstone structures stood the test of time and had me awed. I couldn’t wait to get up close and personal, weaving our way along clusters of them at bicycle pace. We drove the four miles off the main road to reach the entrance kiosk and pay our $20 fee per car (up to four people). Since Monument Valley is a Navajo Tribal Park, National Park passes aren’t valid.
“It’s OK to ride our bikes on the loop road, right?” Mark asked to confirm.
To our surprise, the answer was “No!” The employee pointed at a sign on the window of the kiosk. It said: “No motorcycles/dirt bikes, no ATVs, NO motorhomes, NO RVs.” It didn’t say “No bicycles.”
“That’s a misprint,” the woman claimed, after being questioned about that. “You can take your camper.” I guess we are not an RV after all.
When the sign says “No RVs,” it means “RVs are OK” and when an activity is not allowed—like biking—there’s no notice about it. The conversation didn’t make much sense. The only options to visit this park appeared to be beating up our van or paying for a tour ($75 per person) on hard benches in the back of a pick-up truck.
Mark and I left and returned the four miles to where we’d spotted a Utah welcome center. We talked to a native woman who represents Monument Valley, does tours there, and provides info.
“Of course, you can bike in the park. I see tourists do it all the time. If it wasn’t allowed, they would fix the sheet at the ticket booth and they would put signs up.” That theory made sense to us, but what about the conflicting information?
“Just go,” she said. “It’s not that the FBI will chase you out.”
“We will blame you if we get in trouble,” I joked.
“That’s fine,” she replied.
With this new information, we returned to the ticket booth and paid our $20. We parked in the park and mounted our bikes.
It was a beautiful, quiet, and easy ride. So much more enjoyable—and environmentally-friendly—than in our van. The speed limit on the one-way road is 15mph and it wasn’t busy at all. We encountered one or two cars the first ten miles. We took photos, stopped at viewpoints, and enjoyed the scenery.
Then, we took one of the spur roads to another viewpoint. The parking lot had stalls selling indigenous artwork, like other ones.
A man in a fluorescent yellow vest called us over. He was hanging out with the Navajos selling souvenirs. “You have been reported by one of the tour guides,” he said. “You are not allowed to bike in this park, so you have to load your bicycles into my pick-up truck and I will escort you out.”
Seriously? We didn’t want to leave the electric bikes to fend for themselves, so we hopped in the bed of the truck as well. What followed was a very bumpy ride, as we held on for dear life. We collected bruises and scratches, but the bikes (and we) survived.
The reasoning behind the bicycle prohibition: it is for “our own safety.” We have rarely biked on a safer road than this one. Plus, there are NO signs or references anywhere saying that bicycling in the park is not allowed.
On the way out, we stopped at the Utah visitor center again. The same Navajo woman sat at her desk.
“Did you go?” she immediately asked. I explained what happened and her (and the two other locals’) mouth fell open. “That doesn’t make sense.” I know, right?
“Maybe sometimes bikes are allowed and other times they’re not,” I said. That created a giggle.
“Yeah, maybe they were all in a bad mood today,” she replied.
For a different approach and experience of Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park, check out Bespoke Traveler’s blog here.
(This post was created with the new WordPress Gutenberg editor, but I used the classic option for the photo galleries. Thank you, Hugh for pointing me in that direction!)
April 28, 2019 at 11:22
Shame. But what you did get to see looks fab!
April 29, 2019 at 15:59
Yep! We did “get away” with quite a bit. And, the later in the day, the cloudier the skies… 🙂
April 28, 2019 at 11:23
We never even thought about biking that road. Good for you guys for being adventurous and almost getting away with it! I’m surprised they just don’t charge more to do that, they seem to like to collect $ there.
April 29, 2019 at 16:02
Did you do that road in HaRVy, Leslie? I know you guys don’t like to drive on dirt roads, so I’m surprised you didn’t consider biking it. The roads were pretty rocky and sharp.
Every time we visit a park, we calculate the distance of the loop road and sightseeing options, and consider saving our tires and fuel, by using our bikes. It doesn’t always work out, of course, but mostly because some national parks are just too big. Often, we drive halfway in the park and then bike a section of it.
Yep, they do like to collect money!
April 28, 2019 at 11:35
Seriously — who makes up these rules?! You should write and complain and insist on proper signage!
April 29, 2019 at 16:04
Nice thought, Donna. I talked to about everyone there in person about the signs – the security guy, the hotel clerk, the information boot employee, and the Utah welcome center woman. That’s all I can do, really. It’s up to them whether they take the suggestions or not. To be honest, I don’t think they care that much. And, maybe the rules change again one of these months. Who knows?
April 28, 2019 at 11:47
What an ordeal in navigating the rules, Liesbet! You definitely had an adventure and got some fantastic pictures (jealous again). Sounds like Navajo Nation staff is confused about the overall rules.
April 29, 2019 at 16:07
Hi Terri! In a way, I don’t think people in Navajo Nation care too much about rules and regulations in general. But when it comes to visitors, we’ve noticed some regulations. The reservation reminded us more of Mexico than the US – the garbage, the stray dogs, the dilapidated picnic bench in the park (yes, there was only one)…
April 28, 2019 at 12:07
As I read this, I was trying to make sense of your experience. I’ve visited Monument Valley a few times, before they charged for entrance, and once since they set it up as a park with entrance fee and amenities… What I do know, and I’m not sure they tell you now, since you didn’t mention it in your post: Navajo families live in Monument Valley, off that road. They don’t believe in fences, but they are very private people. So, if you get off the main road, you might find yourself in someone’s back yard, uninvited. In the old days, when they had fewer visitors, they just explained it all to us, and we knew to be aware and respect the locals, stay on the designated main road. The smaller roads, or tracks are not fit for normal cars anyway, but bikes could easily go down any of them. With so many tourists these days, I can’t imagine how those who try having a normal life living in the area can. So I’m guessing sometimes they complain; and those who run the park try to help them out, or try to strike up somewhat of a balance. All this being said, I’m sorry this happened to you, maybe you were just there at the wrong time; but you still saw most of the beauty you went there for, and hope you enjoyed at least part of your experience.
April 29, 2019 at 16:16
Hi Emese!
Thanks for swinging by and commenting on Roaming About!
You have a good point about Navajos living in the Monument. I think that might be a reason why they don’t allow visitors to bike the roads, in case we’d venture off. Although, the explanation we heard over and over again was “you can’t bike here for your own safety” – the soft bends in the road and the dust from the cars are dangerous, apparently.
There are MANY signs along the loop road and at every intersection and viewpoint that urge visitors to stay on the main road and not venture past the signs. There are even more signs saying “obey the signs.” 🙂 We respect the privacy of the locals and have no problem following the signs, if they are present.
Yes, we did get to experience and enjoy most of the beauty of Monument Valley. As a matter of fact, my husband even remarked that if this were to happen in a national park – us biking around while it wasn’t allowed – a park ranger would snatch us up at the earliest occasion. Here, we managed to bike for ten miles and sightsee for two hours or so, before that happened. 🙂
Thank you again for your insight!
April 28, 2019 at 12:56
It sounds like they need to invest in a new sign. Thanks for sharing your gorgeous photos with us, Liesbet. It doesn’t appear that the outing was a complete bust. 🙂
April 29, 2019 at 16:18
The outing was quite amazing, Jill, and the conclusion of our adventure a story to retell. 🙂 Sometimes, it is hard to reason with other cultures, which is OK. At some point, we have to accept it and move on.
April 28, 2019 at 14:01
It’s a shame you weren’t allowed to continue on your bicycles Liesbet, what you did see and were able to photograph looks absolutely stunning! 💜 xxx
April 29, 2019 at 16:19
Now that’s the exact summary of our feelings, Xenia! 🙂 We were bummed about not being able to finish our bike loop, but the scenery we found ourselves in as long as it lasted was stunning indeed.
April 28, 2019 at 14:10
That was really crappy. A bike would do less damage to the road than a vehicle if that is their reasoning.
April 29, 2019 at 16:21
You’re right, Alex! Apparently, biking is not safe there. From our experience, we can claim the opposite, but that doesn’t matter. We are visitors on Navajo land, so we have to obey the rules, even when they’re not written anywhere! 🙂
April 28, 2019 at 14:23
Hi Liesbet,
It seems like one hand does not know what the other is doing…or they are simply interested in collecting $$$ for the tours.
Sad.
April 29, 2019 at 16:26
I have to smile, imagining two hands doing opposite things, Nancy. 🙂
I think you are correct about the tours. Few people took their own car on the roads – they are pretty sharp and bouncy. I totally respect the rules in Navajo Nation, but when it comes to exorbitant fees for activities or entrance, we usually pass out of principle. This place was no different in regards to taking the tour. And, we did consider leaving that first time. I convinced Mark to visit.
We also missed out on the amazing Navajo slot canyons of Waterhole Canyon and Antelope Canyon, which are only accessible by tour and cost %55-$75 a person. Oh well.
April 28, 2019 at 15:30
That’s just nuts. I imagine some dirt bikers might try to ride outside of the trails and risk doing damage but clearly that wasn’t your intention. Unfortunately a few “bad apples” can ruin it for every one. Your electric bikes sound like the perfect way to see the park.
April 29, 2019 at 16:27
Hi Janis! We love our electric bikes and thoroughly enjoy exploring parks and natural formations with them – the slower pace and their environmentally friendly impact just add to saving money on diesel and extra miles on our van. We tried! 🙂
March 14, 2021 at 08:05
Do you think the “ban” applies to non-electric bikes as well? Perhaps the ranger categorized yours as motor bikes. I was disappointed to learn of your experience, as riding my road bike through Monument Valley is on my to-do list.
March 14, 2021 at 16:37
Hi Neal! When we were in Monument Valley, now a few years ago, no bikes at all were allowed in the park. The only two options of getting around was in your own car (and maybe motorbike as well, I don’t remember) or on a tour. My thinking is that they keep these rules – and the roads in bad conditions (this is private property) – to encourage tourists to pay for tours.
April 28, 2019 at 16:10
How bizarre! We took a tour then drove round again in our hire car. I can’t remember what it was, probably a 4×4 though. The second time we drove straight past and went to Valley of the Gods which was similar – but free!
April 29, 2019 at 16:29
I have to check out Valley of the Gods Anabel. You mean we could have had a similar – less confrontational – experience for free!? 🙂 I guess it pays to do more research than our “happy go lucky” approach allows…
April 30, 2019 at 00:49
Yes! Maybe not as spectacular, but still interesting. A few pics here:
https://glasgowgallivanter.com/2015/03/12/mexican-hat/
May 1, 2019 at 07:32
Thanks for the link, Anabel. I love that name “Mexican Hat” and have seen it on the map. Now I know why it’s called that. Nice photos. We might have to try and fit that corner of Utah in, but there’s no straight road from Kanab East. One has to go around south and past Monument Valley again. 🙁
April 28, 2019 at 19:20
The rules and signs do not make sense at all, Liesbet. Definitely confusing. I haven’t noticed whether you use watermarks on prior photos. I have heard mixed viewpoints on this. The photos are exceptionally stunning!
April 29, 2019 at 16:34
Hi Erica! I’m curious to find out what you’ve heard about using watermarks. Especially the cons.
In the past, I’ve done the effort to put them on photos, but that happened many months ago, maybe even a year, certainly before you started following my blog. With the amount of photos I post – and every mark has to be applied individually – it adds 30-60 minutes to the creation of my posts. Yet, I’m not a fan of people stealing my photos. I resize them quite a bit already (and always have), but figured now that I made the change to the new Gutenberg editor, I might as well return to watermarking. What’s another 40 minutes on top of the extra hours to get used to the editor? I’m half joking, of course… 🙂
April 29, 2019 at 21:19
Hi Liesbet, I am still a very new blogger, therefore on a steep learning curve. A blogger I really respect said that she was advised to put watermarks on her photos. Photos are “borrowed” from blogging sites. I did put watermarks on a few of my photos for posts. Then I stopped. I do not know whether there are cons, except for the time commitment. I am not a professional photographer. I just enjoy taking photos. You have been to some very unique places, difficult to access sites, Liesbet. Your photos are spectacular! If someone wanted to “borrow” your photos, you should be given credit. It is also a question of integrity.
May 1, 2019 at 07:27
Thank you for all that, Erica. I agree with being given credit. That’s the polite and professional thing to do. I was wondering what the “mixed” reports were about watermarks. People could potentially cut the watermark out, because photographers want to put them in a benign corner of the photo. But, by adding the personalized mark, they show they’d like to be credited and that they took the photo. If only there was a way to “bulk” watermark, but since every photo is different (and I am not aware of programs doing this), we will have to keep putting them on individually.
April 29, 2019 at 07:42
What an odyssey. Crazy that the sign showed prohibited activities that are allowed and not activities that are actually prohibited and that there was conflicting advice depending upon who you spoke with. Whatever the case, you got some seriously incredible snaps of the place. Read Bespoke Traveler’s post earlier but was unaware of the tips from Hugh’s blog which I am off to read now. I created a whole post in Guttenberg and then had to recreate it with the Classic editor due to gallery limitations.
April 29, 2019 at 16:40
You’re a world traveler, Lisa… Are you really surprised at this whole signage thing? As I mentioned before to someone else’s comment, traveling through Navajo Nation for a few days reminded us more of a third world country than a western one.
Sorry to hear about your Gutenberg experience. It sounds VERY similar to how I felt after the first time I tried the editor (for The Wave post), which I’m not entirely happy about. I really had to be patient and determined not to start all over again in the classic editor. I was this close! But that would mean all the work I had accomplished and the things I’d learned in Gutenberg (amounting to about six hours or so) would be wasted. Maybe it’s stubbornness…
The trick to the galleries is to select a block with “classic formatting”. I think it’s listed under the formatting heading. In that block is an icon at the top that brings you to the image library in the old way. There, you can use and add the gallery just like before Gutenberg. Try it out and if you have questions, let me know. I’ll reply to your other email later today. 🙂
April 29, 2019 at 10:47
Well, that’s just crazy. It’s a shame you didn’t get to finish the ride because it looks like a great way to explore the park.
April 29, 2019 at 16:41
Hi Ellen! Welcome back. 🙂
Monument Valley is an amazing place and we love exploring with our bikes, especially when we don’t have to lock them up for hikes or grocery shopping! In this park, there are no walking trails and the viewpoints are all accessible by bicycle.
April 29, 2019 at 15:58
Sounds about right for what’s going on in the US, nothing is at it was. But you managed to circle around and take some stellar photos! 🙂 x
April 29, 2019 at 16:46
In times like these, one has to cherish the sights and enjoy what nature has to offer, ignoring any human involvement. Being out and about with nobody around is our happy place, Debby. This wasn’t quite that, but we are glad we managed to snatch half of the ride on our bikes. The rattling drive back was less pleasant. 🙂
April 30, 2019 at 07:45
I have said many a time that I’d like the job of redoing signs in different parks and other tourist spots. I know your problem was not simply sign-related, but it certainly didn’t help! In so many national parks and other outdoor areas, we have been appalled at the deficiency of the trial maps and other information provided. On a happier note, the views you did get are excellent!
May 1, 2019 at 07:36
Ha! You have noticed as well! I’d hire you to redo the signs and maps, Lexie! By the way, the map/brochure we received for Monument Valley was quite pathetic as well. The route wasn’t quite accurate – definitely not to scale – and some of the numbers and names (of viewpoints) were wrong. We also saw a speed limit sign facing the opposite direction on a one-way road. 🙂
April 30, 2019 at 08:54
Well, I got to congratulate you first on creating this post using Gutenberg. It looks terrific, and the images using the classic editor fit in so perfectly. As with other posts I’ve read that have been created with Gutenberg, I find not only the layout of the post far better on the eye, but it makes the whole post far more comfortable to read. I’m more likely to read them.
Sorry to read that you were escorted out of the park for riding your bikes. Given that we’re all supposed to be cutting back on our Co2 emissions, it goes against the grain to ban bikes. We’re being encouraged to ride them more and more, plus it helps keep us all fit.
Great scenery on the photographs. Reminds me of some of the scenes from the old western movies.
Thanks for the mention, Liesbet.
May 1, 2019 at 08:55
Hi Hugh!
Good eye in regards to the old western movies. I think a few have been shot around here. And, there were several viewpoints where one could pose on a horse in front of the scenery for a photo, which one would have to pay $5 for.
Yeah, I still don’t know what the real deal is about bikes in Monument Valley. I’m not sure the Navajo know themselves, because it would be OK for them to get around by bike, since some of them live in the park.
This post worked out well in Gutenberg, thanks to being able to use the classic editor for my photo collages. My previous post – about hiking The Wave after winning the lottery for it – didn’t look as good. I hated the way the photo galleries were done. Live and learn! 🙂
April 30, 2019 at 23:37
What a shame, and so frustrating. Sometimes rules just don’t make sense.
May 1, 2019 at 08:56
How do we even know that they are rules if there’s no sign of it, or about it? Oh well… If we would have read about it in the brochure or on a sheet of paper or on a sign, we wouldn’t have taken the bikes in. As a matter of fact, we would have left, since we have principles. 🙂
May 1, 2019 at 11:25
That’s crazy! And how disappointing that your tour was so rudely cut short. But at least the FBI didn’t get you.
By the way, I figured out why your site was occasionally blocking me from commenting: Sometimes I use HTML character code to correctly render a long dash or an ellipsis in my comments, and apparently that’s what was being rejected. Now I’m only using my regular keyboard input and everything is fine. Mystery solved! 🙂
May 2, 2019 at 17:01
Yay! I’m glad you figured out the glitch. Thanks! Can I hire you for my own commenting issues on other people’s blogs? 🙂 Well, you ARE the queen of mystery solving. But, why do we get in trouble for using the right characters in these situations? WordPress should be created by writers! And tested by English majors.
No FBI yet.
May 1, 2019 at 14:16
The last bit couldn’t have been much fun, but the photos are awesome as always. 🙂
Anna from elements of emaginette
May 2, 2019 at 17:01
Anything for a good story, right? 🙂
May 1, 2019 at 15:46
Hi Liesbet
I can’t believe this! I’ve seen many photos of people riding bikes in Monument Valley. Maybe it’s in a different location. Also did you say your bikes are electric? If so, maybe that’s why. At least you got partway.
Beautiful photographs, by the way.
Laura
May 2, 2019 at 17:05
Hi Laura! For some reason you show up as “anonymous” instead of your usual handle…
I’m glad you liked the photos. Having electric bikes had nothing to do with the “rule” as nobody recognizes them as electric (they’re pretty nifty) or said anything about that part. Plus, they are “peddle-assist” which means you always have to peddle like on a normal bike.
May 2, 2019 at 13:33
The first time (only time) I went to Monument Valley – over 30 years ago – I was in completely awe. We had just come from the Grand Canyon and I thought Monument Valley was better. I have been passing it up for the last three years because of the cost. I’d love to take Greg there, but so much money. I didn’t even realize that a tour was $75 a person! Wow!
So sorry you got kicked out! But you got some great pics anyways and a good blog post with an intriguing title!
May 2, 2019 at 17:37
You know, Duwan, after being turned away the first time, Mark really wanted to leave and go elsewhere. On principle. We have many of those… I wish we would have known about “Valley of the Gods” back then, as it appears to be similar. If you go in your own vehicle, it’s $20 for up to four people, so not too bad. But, yeah, a tour would be crazy expensive, like the slot canyons in Navajo Nation… Looking forward to hearing about your kayaking adventure!
It took me a while to come up with this title, since Mark suggested that the word “bike” or “biking” should be part of it. Great story nevertheless.
See you soon!!!