After spending a few days at our friends Mark and Jen’s cabin in Maine – the perfect place to hang out, write an article, and arrange part of my parents’ upcoming visit – Mark, Maya, and I hit the road again. Our (late) summer destination: the Canadian Maritimes.
But first, we had to endure an evening of buzzing and feasting mosquitoes in a free beautiful, forested, riverside campsite. We had “planned” a two-night stay, but left first thing in the morning and crossed the border; an uneventful affair.
Welcome to New Brunswick, Canada
St. Andrews
Our first day in Canada was sunny and warm. We enjoyed an extended stroll in the historic town of St. Andrews.
The beach was nothing special, so we picked a shady park to rest our tired bodies and cuddle with Maya.
Relaxing in the park
A free campsite was found on a bluff overlooking a bay. It was fun to walk the beach at low tide. The fluctuation of the water gave us an idea of what was to come. The hungry, nibbling ants everywhere we walked, chased us off the following morning.
Deer Island
When we discovered there is no fee to take the ferry to Deer Island – you can’t often go wrong with free, right? – we decided to hop on (without the camper) and experience one of the Fundy Islands. Was this Maya’s first ferry ride? We will never know.
On Deer Island, we splurged on $5 worth of home-baked pastries from a bake sale, spotted a couple of deer, and failed to find the largest lobster pound in the world. Of course, my Lonely Planet from 17 years ago might be slightly outdated. The three of us walked around the area for a bit, had lunch on a quiet pier, and retraced our steps to the ferry when the drizzle turned to rain.
Saint John
The “Saint” in Saint John, New Brunswick, is never abbreviated to avoid confusion with St. John’s, the capital of Newfoundland. Our first free campsite of choice was in one of the parking lots overlooking the Bay of Fundy in Irving Nature Park.
From here, we could easily get on the extensive trail system. We took Maya for a 5-mile hike, circumnavigating the entire park. While the views were darkened, it was good exercise.
Late afternoon, the sky cleared up, until the fog rolled in. It would stay for days.
Arrival of the fog…
The one sight to see in Saint John is the Reversing Falls. It’s a funky phenomenon. As the tide of the Bay of Fundy rises, the water rushes upstream, because the river is located lower than the bay. Around high tide, this effect is most prominent, with rapids and standing waves preventing all boat traffic.
Slack tide – twice a day for 20 minutes – is when the Saint John River is navigable. It was foggy the entire time we spent in this area, so we never saw anyone go through the narrow entrance to the river.
Reversing Falls – slack tide
When the tide drops, the river runs outward, like a normal stream, but much faster. Even to the eye, the mouth of the river looks like it’s on a downward slope. This time, eddies and whirlpools cause dramatic effects. There are two Reversing Falls parking lots and each one allows free overnight parking.
One morning, we had a quick walk in the town center. Since the weather was all but enjoyable, we postponed traveling to our main destination in New Brunswick until the sun popped out again. Unbeknownst to us, the mist and drizzle were absent inland, which became clear the moment we left the city.
Fundy National Park
If we’d be “normal” tourists, we would have picked a site at a campground (ideally Point Wolfe) for a few nights and explore this beautiful park at leisure, hiking and biking around. But we are penny pinchers and desired to reach Nova Scotia sooner than later, so our one day at the park was packed with an enjoyable 5-mile walk to Third Vault Falls, driving through a covered bridge, checking out one beach, and stopping at one viewpoint. There are many trails and more waterfalls, but we were pretty spent.
Our campsite for the night wasn’t too shabby either. The view over the Bay of Fundy was spectacular, the hordes of mosquitoes not so much. Somehow – despite our netting – 40 bloodsuckers managed to squeeze in and we hunted and killed these creatures for two hours before heading to bed, missing two or three that kept us up all night.
Moncton
In the vibrant city of Moncton, we stopped to watch the Tidal Bore. Every twelve hours, this ripple moves upstream from the Bay of Fundy, bringing water with it. We saw a relatively “empty” river fill up after this wave came through. Another place to watch this phenomenon is Truro, Nova Scotia.
Memramcook
Our last stop in the province was this little town in the middle of Acadian country. A fortuitous stop again – because of a dump station close to an overnight spot, allowing us to give Maya a bath – that made us stumble upon an Acadian celebration that only happens every five years in different locations. We’d noticed an overpowering amount of Acadian flags (colors of the French flag with a yellow star in the first, blue, band), so could have guessed something was up.
We’d arrived in an area densely populated with Acadian people, a neutral race that had been caught between the French and British troops fighting for this fertile region in the 1700s. When the English came into power, these French speaking people were deported, families torn up, and their lands taken. The people who now live in these strongholds of Acadian culture are descendants of those who returned from exile or hid and survived in the woods during that time.
After reading about Acadian history in Monument Lefebvre, Mark, Maya, and I watched the celebrations at the beautifully located Chapel Sainte Anne. While a French dialect is the first language here, everyone is bilingual. Signs in New Brunswick (like in Quebec) are in two languages, English and French.
It would have been nice to stay for the free concerts in the afternoon and evening, but learning that fireworks were scheduled was enough for us to leave the province. Maya hates fireworks.
Free overnight parking at the monument
Have you ever been to New Brunswick? What were your highlights? Do you have any sightseeing tips for us in Nova Scotia?
August 26, 2019 at 08:11
Wow, what an adventure! Bummer about the mosquitoes. I would’ve bathed in Off at that point. And yes, the river really does look like a small falls.
August 26, 2019 at 13:52
Yep. Mosquito repellent has been our friend. Just annoying to put on, on shower day. 🙂 We’ve wisened up now and close the door before dusk, so no mozzies get trapped between the screen and the door. It’s cool enough again to close up early these days. 🙂
August 26, 2019 at 09:10
Wow! You all sure covered a lot of territory. Ugh…mosquitoes…I’m a magnet for them! Thanks for sharing your gorgeous photos, Liesbet. I’ve never been to New Brunswick. My parents visited years ago and they really enjoyed the trip. Stay safe!
August 26, 2019 at 14:01
I’m with you and Janis, Jill. I always tell friends and people around me that they are safe from mosquitoes when I’m around. Sweet blood! In general, I don’t care too much about the buzzing and being bitten, as long as the mosquitoes don’t carry diseases (which is no worry in North America). It’s usually half an hour of discomfort and itchiness. Other insects’ bites can be worse. No fun, though, regardless. I’m glad your parents enjoyed their time in New Brunswick. It’s good to be back in Canada. We are slowing down a bit now that we are in Nova Scotia! 🙂
August 26, 2019 at 15:14
Actually we have the West Nile Virus that mosquitoes carry. I just saw a report on the news about a little boy who recently passed away from the virus. Enjoy Nova Scotia…hopefully it will be bug free! 🙂
August 26, 2019 at 19:21
Thanks for that info, Jill. And, very sad about the boy! 🙁 I guess we should be a bit more careful and put more Off on. Nova Scotia has been much less buggy for some reason!
August 26, 2019 at 10:22
HI, Liesbet – Looks like a full and rewarding trip. I was wondering what kind of late-August weather you would encounter there. That’s a drag about the mosquitos! Being harrassed by copious amounts of annoying insects is much rarer where I currently live — I don’t miss them at all.
August 26, 2019 at 14:15
After our night in the woods of Maine, we thought we’d left the worst of the mosquitoes behind us. New Brunswick was surprisingly buggy. Coincidence or not, Nova Scotia appears to be better. 🙂 The weather has been a mixed bag. Never too hot anymore, though, which is good for Maya.
August 26, 2019 at 11:24
I’ve never been to New Brunswick so I’m happy that you are taking us along. Like Jill, I’m a mosquito magnet so I don’t think I’d be very happy there. Isn’t it nice to happen upon a celebration that you didn’t expect? Fun times!
August 26, 2019 at 14:19
Because of the celebration, we learned more about the Acadian culture than we would have otherwise. As far as mosquitoes go, they’re a pain, but bites from ants or horse flies, or no-see-ums are more painful and lasting. For me, anyway. In many other countries I’ve visited, they carry nasty diseases, so all in all, they’re more of a nuisance than anything else in these woods. When it’s too bad, we pack up and leave. Not ideal, but better than actually living there full-time. 🙂
August 26, 2019 at 11:58
Haven’t been to New Brunswick or Nova Scotia but we are looking forward to traveling year round now – so perhaps we will get there some time in the the future. I will have your post to refer back to. NB looks beautiful.
I hate it about the mosquitoes. We are adding new screens to our van – the one you are using. I ordered one from Amazon and when I went back to order the second they weren’t selling them any more! I found the manufacturer’s website and ordered one there but since they are Chinese I’m afraid I still won’t be sent (I am still waiting).
Great lucking out on the festival.
I wonder if everyone is fascinated by water currents or just sailors? I remember waiting – sometimes over night – for slack tide.
August 26, 2019 at 14:23
So nice to read that year-round travel is in your near future, Duwan, especially since so many states and provinces are at their best during the summer.
So, your comment about not seeing the screen on Amazon anymore had us scrambling at our computers to find the previous order and link and research where to get them still, as ours got pinched a bunch in the door and has small holes now. We need a new one by the next buggy season. Mark wrote the manufacturer to see what the scoop is.
At one of the information centers, an employee was explaining to us everything about tides, like he does with everyone. I almost told him about our experiences in the South Pacific atolls and how dangerous it could be to enter a pass and lagoon in anything but slack tide. 🙂
August 26, 2019 at 15:22
We haven’t been to New Brunswick, but liked Nova Scotia, especially Cape Breton.
August 26, 2019 at 19:22
You know which places to choose, Anabel! Cape Breton is our main destination in Nova Scotia, after visiting our friends. Looking forward to it. We seem to always get stuck with friends longer than anticipated. 🙂
August 26, 2019 at 23:37
Really enjoyed your beautiful pictures of this trip to the great northeast. What a wonderful trip that brought back memories of our time on the road. Once we were traveling in Canada and quite excited to visit Yellowknife. We stopped at a visitor center and were literally chased by mosquitoes. So we didn’t spend a very long time in Yellowknife. Happy travels, Liesbet, Mark, and Maya.
August 27, 2019 at 04:35
Thanks for swinging by, Beth, and for traveling along with us, virtually. I’ll have to check out Yellowknife. I haven’t heard about it, let alone know in which province or territory it is located. Have a fantastic rest of your week.
August 27, 2019 at 14:58
Truly an amazing adventure with stunning photos, Liesbet. I have never stepped foot in Canada, so one of these days. Looks like you enjoyed a huge variety of sights and made more fun memories. Maya looks like she is having a great time, too. Sorry to read about all the ants and skeeters, I guess they come with the territory!
August 29, 2019 at 08:49
Once you get your travel trailer on the road again, ideally long-term, I’m sure you’ll enjoy the beauty and uniqueness of Canada, Terri. We love our life on the road, but – I’ve got to be honest – some challenges can get old (like biting bugs everywhere, flaky or non-existing WiFi, and uncooperating weather). This is why I’m thoroughly enjoying a mix of van life and “house” life, either house sitting or at the in-laws. If we wouldn’t have to make money anymore, I’d happily spend all my time traveling again!
August 27, 2019 at 19:12
What fun to see the Maritimes again! I lived in Halifax, NS for a year, and did quite a bit of exploration through Nova Scotia and New Brunswick. Your photos brought back a lot of memories! 🙂
August 27, 2019 at 22:01
Liesbet I have never been to this area, although I have always been interested to go there. Love all the photos of the falls, river, and particularly the Bay of Fundy. Largest tides in the world? Wow.
But, I have to say, Maya steals the show. I love seeing her so happy and enriching your lives as well. Nice to see her with a little buddy at the start of your trip.
Fireworks are the worst for cats and dogs and probably all animals. When we lived in Nicaragua it was even worse as people would set off firecrackers as well. The noise and the unpredictability of it all, was terrifying for our dogs. Good job on leaving….
Peta
August 29, 2019 at 08:56
Hi Peta!
The Bay of Fundy is quite famous for its highest tides. That being said, you’d have to take a photo of high tide and low tide and compare them, to really understand and see the difference. We saw the bay in many different stages, so the effect was not too obvious.
Maya is our number one priority, just like our previous dogs were. The fur babies always “decide” where we anchored in the past and where we go and what we do in the past and present. Fireworks are to be avoided at all times, as much as possible. For other anxieties, we try to ease her into them a little bit at a time.
I hear you about Nicaragua! We had the same issues in Mexico with our other dogs. The firecrackers happened all the time and everywhere. And, many Saints to be celebrated as well!
Maya is the star of the day, wherever we go. On every walk – in towns or on trails – she gets a lot of attention and compliments. She is a special dog, for sure, and a joy to have around. She’s adjusting really well and is one sweet, happy pup. 🙂
August 30, 2019 at 09:40
It’s fun to read about these places I have not been but want to visit someday. I have a dream of a trans-Canadian road trip, starting on the east coast, someday after my husband decides to retire (no clue when that might be!). As always, I also love seeing sweet Maya enjoying her new, lucky life with you guys!
August 31, 2019 at 17:46
Hi Lexie! I think you would thoroughly enjoy a driving tour around Nova Scotia! So many cute villages and sea/bay vistas. Good roads, not too much traffic, and friendly locals. Sweet Maya is happy here as well. 🙂 Running on the beaches off leash is a close second after roaming the woods. Your husband needs more poking!!
August 31, 2019 at 14:31
Except for the mosquitoes, I envy you the less humid, cooler weather.
I’ve been to British Columbia, Alberta, Ontario, and Quebec, but never New Brunswick I think Prince Edward Island is the setting for Anne of Green Gables. I do know Shirley Showalter, whom you have often seen in my blog comments, honeymooned there 50 years again and then her whole family traveled to the same locale to celebrate their Golden Anniversary..
Although it’s hard at times, you are certainly savoring the Good Life! 🙂
August 31, 2019 at 17:49
You are right about the setting for Anne of Green Gables, Marian! I never read the book, or even heard about it (you know I don’t have a US literary background or education at all), until I read my Canada guidebook. Prince Edward Island is on the “agenda” in a week or so. 🙂
No humidity here, for sure. A “healthy” mix of rain, sun, fog, and many clouds instead. I’m going to need your weather this winter!!
September 2, 2019 at 09:52
Hi Liesbet,
So glad you were able to post a bit from your recent travels. We’ve been to many of the places you mentioned, including Deer Island where we vacationed several times, renting a cottage right on the water with our sailboat at mooring out front. Overlooking Lubec, ME. We took the free provincial ferry with the boat, but also the ferry from Campobello to Deer Island which pulls up and loads cars right from the beach at low tide.
Seen the reversing falls…loved New Brunswick in general.
RE mosquitos…do you guys have/use a Thermacell device? We swear by ours.
September 4, 2019 at 13:05
That’s pretty cool that you managed to rent a cottage and have your sailboat on a mooring in front of it. Talk about a vacation with options of leisure! 🙂
We would have liked to check out Campobello as well, or even better, Grand Manan, but rain and bad weather was predicted, so we opted to go to Saint John and hang there for a few days. Lots of rain in Canada and one really has to plan around it to be able to enjoy the sights. It’s one of the reasons why we sometimes move fast.
I have no idea what Thermacell is, so I’ll add it to the research list for when we have internet again.
September 2, 2019 at 18:36
Oh thanks for the wonderful mini tour of my east coast, Liesbet. I can only imagine how chewed up you were from that excursion, lol. Oddly enough, I don’t remember learning about the Acadian people, so thank you for that. I’ve been to New Brunswick once in my life, and at the time, once was enough. 🙂
September 4, 2019 at 13:07
We had no idea about the Acadian people as well, Debby, until I read about them in my 17-year-old guidebook. And then the museum. Quite a fascinating history and people! At the moment I type this reply, we are in Cheticamp on Cape Breton (NS), another town known for its Acadian population.
I think a one-time visit to New Brunswick might be enough for us as well! 🙂
September 4, 2019 at 01:29
We have never been to Canada, so no, we have not visiited New Brunswick. But we would love to. The scenery looks very beautiful. But of particular interest to us would be the Reversing Falls & the Tidal Bore. Both these phenomenons would be incredible to see! But, the fog for days you can keep 🙂
September 4, 2019 at 13:10
Hi Estelle! I hope you’ll get to visit Canada and its phenomena one day. We actually saw the tidal bore again in Truro, Nova Scotia a few days ago. Pretty cool, but the reversing falls were more interesting. No fog but rain these days! 🙁 And, we just noticed we might be in the path of hurricane Dorian…
September 4, 2019 at 11:55
Wow! What a trip. I’m proud to live in such a beautiful country. 🙂
Anna from elements of emaginette
September 4, 2019 at 13:11
Canada is amazing, except for the rain. Never have we traveled where it rains so much – these days on Cape Breton. But, the scenery is fantastic! 🙂
September 5, 2019 at 20:51
Liesbet, I have been to Saint John NB only once for a few days. The highlight of my stay there was taking in a Gordon Lightfoot concert.
Jude
September 6, 2019 at 18:38
Hi Jude! A concert in Saint John sounds nice. There really is not much else there that stands out, in our humble opinion.