After we departed the Sacred Valley and Cusco, we had less than two weeks left in Peru, so we headed towards the border with Bolivia, slowly. The idea was to obtain another 60 days or more to meet up with family from Belgium and friends from Canada back in Cusco, the end of November.
Laguna de Huacarpay
Our first night heading east was spent along a small and peaceful lake, enjoyed by local families that Sunday afternoon. The night was relatively quiet, until we were awakened by knocks on the side of the camper at 5am. It was a Peruvian man asking us if anyone else had been camped here in a tent last night. Not that we knew, but why was that important enough to wake up two gringos? We will never know.
Pallcoyo Colored Mountains
Then, we headed to what would become our favorite destination in this country to date. It was a tough one to get to. From the moment we turned off the main road and onto the one-lane side track, we had to back up for three tour vans. We figured in the afternoon, it would be quieter; hence our late start… These were tourists heading back to Cusco at 3pm, after two hours of driving down the mountain.
Luckily, we didn’t encounter anyone else on our way up this narrow, tricky road. After an hour of exercising steel nerves and concentration, we pulled over along the river. Our only company some locals passing by on motorcycles or cars, but mostly a shepherd and her flock of sheep, llamas, and alpacas.
The following day had one purpose: watch the traffic patterns on this tight, gravel road (to use that information for our drive to the top – and back down) and figure out if we would take the camper up or just the truck (leaving our home behind for half a day again). Or, to hitch a ride or pay our way with a tour van, which would mean less flexibility and a bigger crowd.
After deciding to take our entire truck camper up, we left at 6:30am to arrive at Pallcoyo Mountain, also called Three Colored Mountains or Three Rainbow Mountains, an hour later. I was impressed by the scenery along the way. It was as if we were driving through a nature documentary in the Andes Mountains (we were!) – stunning terraces, bucolic scenes like a kid tending to a donkey and a Quechua woman carrying a lamb in a bag on her back that jumped out as we passed, and spectacular yet barren mountain sides at this high elevation.
This site is not the main Rainbow Mountain (also called Vinicunca), which draws hundreds – if not thousands – of visitors every day, is more expensive, and more annoying as locals ask for extra money the further you walk.
After breakfast in Bella, we started exploring. Our entrance fee was around $5 per person, Maya was welcome to join us, and the first hour we had the place to ourselves.
The entire trail sloped upwards, so we took it slowly, breathing heavily, passing viewpoints and taking photos. At some point, we climbed one of the colorful mountains to take in our spectacular surroundings, including snowy peaks in the distance. The sun didn’t last long as clouds rolled in.
The highlight of this mind-blowing location was the Stone Forest. It required another climb and at some point, we even registered 15,600ft (4,750m) on our little phone gps! The jagged rocks were as picturesque as the rainbow mountains around us and we couldn’t get enough, staring at the expanses and taking photos.
Maya and me in the Stone Forest
When the cold – and the “hordes” of arriving tourists (a total of five vans, maybe) – got to us, we completed the loop, down this time, and back to the entrance of the site, passing by groups of llamas and alpacas.
The descend to our lovely campsite in the camper was a non-event. We were happy to have taken our entire home with us and to get the timing right.
Tinajani Canyon
Our next destination was Titicaca Lake and Puno, its biggest city on the Peruvian side. But we didn’t take the direct route. Instead, we veered south a bit quicker and drove through Tinajani Canyon, another lovely surprise.
The dirt road was in good shape and our first stop, around dusk, was a local cheese farm, where we affordably stocked up on Gouda, Andinos, and Parmesan. Oh, and some fresh butter as well.
Our free camping app iOverlander shared mixed reviews and experiences about camping in this scenic area. We checked out a few spots after gazing at the cool rock formations and were chased off once by a local Quechua lady. I tried to talk to her, but she didn’t speak Spanish.
Eventually, we settled further away from the mud homes. A friendly shepherd passed by, claiming we were parked on his property, so we gave him a “voluntary” amount of money. Everyone was happy and we could stay as long as we pleased.
Our Starlink internet antenna worked great here, the scenery was attractive to walk in, and we worked on another big camper project. But the weather had turned windy, rainy, and ice cold. That, in combination with our breathing efforts at this high elevation, had us on the road again after a couple of days.
The gravel road brought us by some very interesting and rare plants called Puya Raimondii, and above 15,000ft (4,570m) again. It was a beautiful drive and once we cut over to the next paved east-west road, progress was smooth. Until we reached the unattractive city of Juliaca with its even less attractive “roads.”
Puno
We didn’t really explore Puno, but we were happy to be able to reach the Plaza Vea grocery store without issues, unlike in Juliaca. Our first night was spent at an old viewpoint, where it was level and quiet. We hoped to stay a few days here to work, but the following morning, an old lady was banging on our truck with a stick, asking for money and then bread. Mark and I gave her a few slices and I brought her home. This didn’t deter us from staying.
An hour later, a local farmer swung by, telling us he needed money from us to support a security detail that was surveying the area. Well, we hadn’t seen anybody, felt totally safe in this particular spot well out of town, and we had Maya. Because he was persistent and we don’t encourage people begging for money, especially when we are parked on public property, we didn’t feel comfortable staying anymore. So, we moved to a dirt pit of a soccer field.
Uros Islands
Uros is a group of islands entirely made out of totora reeds, floating in famous Titicaca Lake, which straddles the border between Peru and Bolivia. Lago Titicaca is the highest navigable body of water in the world (at 12,500ft or 3,800m) and, together with the Andes Mountains, it’s a place I remember learning about in high school in Belgium.
View of Uros from the viewpoint
This string of small islands is actually located quite close to shore; we could see them from “our” mirador (viewpoint). The best way to visit is by private tour, which is more affordable than you might think. Mark and I booked a three-hour tour with Yordy for less than $20 in total, which included the $2.50 p.p. entrance fee to Uros. Maya was allowed to join us and we were happy the rain clouds stepped aside for some sunshine.
Yordy and his mom, Rosa, brought us to their island, Suma Marka (every single floating unit has its own name), where he explained the method of island – and house and boat – building, according to the same traditions that have been around for ages. His spiel was in English, but once we had questions, it was better to switch to Spanish, which is his second language after Aimara, the local tongue. The funniest part was when Maya kept eating their island! She loved chewing on the reeds.
The main source of income here is tourism, so Rosa tried her best to sell us one of her handicrafts. We obliged. Next, the pair transported us to another, more touristy island, passing other parts of the reed village. Isla Capital contained a restaurant, a tienda (shop), an observation tower, and paraphernalia for visitors to take photos with. The lunches were overpriced, so we just hung out and marveled at our soggy, cushiony reed carpet that moved from the wake of passing boats.
Playa Moyapampa
After our visit to Uros and another night at the unattractive soccer field, we drove into Puno again to get Maya a shot at the vet and buy more food. Then, we found a quiet camping spot along the shores of Lake Titicaca. Here, we dealt with another camper issue, watched shepherds take their cattle to the expanse of fresh water for a drink, and mentally prepared ourselves for something I had been stressing and worrying about for over a month: our border run to Bolivia. The hope was to obtain more time in Peru as our three months were up…
Stay tuned for that “little” three-day border adventure, which I’d like to call “a shit show.”
Curious about a previous ten-year chapter in our nomadic lives, which includes eight years aboard a 35-foot sailboat in the tropics with dogs, check out my compelling, inspiring, and refreshingly honest travel memoir:
November 21, 2023 at 10:14
Wow, what incredible scenery! I agree, one of the best legs of your adventure so far!
November 24, 2023 at 15:53
Hi Marie!
I’m glad you enjoyed the post and the photos. And that you agree with our choice of highlight. 🙂
November 21, 2023 at 10:25
how stunning and other-worldly
November 24, 2023 at 15:53
It’s such a special place, Beth. It’s difficult to make the photos do it justice.
November 21, 2023 at 11:43
The stunning views of Peru never disappoint!
Puno was an interesting town but I bet it has changed since 2011.
November 24, 2023 at 15:55
Hi Nilla,
I’m sure a lot has changed in Peru since you were here. Not sure about Puno, because it’s not too touristy. Maybe it grew in size a bit. If it wasn’t for the scenery, Peru wouldn’t get any recommendations from me!
November 25, 2023 at 04:46
The scenery is its saving grace!
November 25, 2023 at 10:27
Exactly!
November 21, 2023 at 13:04
I kept looking for a reference to meeting family from Belgium and friends from Canada. Maybe that will be in the next installment.
Happy to hear your Starlink works and that you saw some lovely handicrafts and scenery.
November 24, 2023 at 15:57
Hi Marian,
I think I’m about one month behind from real time with my blog posts. At the moment, my cousin and her husband from Belgium have joined us in the Sacred Valley of Peru. If the previous months were busy, these weeks are tenfold that! So, I’ll run behind with everything even more. But it is also nice to see familiar faces, have company, and splurge a bit more. 🙂
November 21, 2023 at 14:04
Sorry the next bit will be a shit show. The scenery there is just amazing. So many llamas. Hope Maya didn’t eat too much of their boat.
November 24, 2023 at 15:58
Hi Alex,
Maya eats about everything! But, the reeds are layered many feet thick, so nobody sank that day. 🙂
Yeah, Peru has been a serious mixed bag for us. I don’t think we will be back (if we don’t have to).
November 21, 2023 at 17:55
Wow, you really saw some one-of-a-kind things on this leg of your trip. What spectacular scenery! I think I’d be very stressed out by people banging on the camper and demanding money, though. You must have nerves of steel.
November 24, 2023 at 16:01
Hi Diane,
If there’s one thing almost a lifetime of travel has taught me, it’s to not be surprised by and about anything anymore. Mark was actually livid when he realized what was happening. Someone hitting your home with a stick… But, this lady was so old, fragile, and a bit off, that I quickly got my composure back and felt pity for her. The human mind works mysteriously! 🙂
November 21, 2023 at 18:21
The Rainbow Mountains are particularly impressive. I think I’d feel a bit uneasy on the reed islands!
November 24, 2023 at 16:05
Hi Anabel,
I guess you could compare the reed islands a bit with a soft plastic raft. A big raft. It was interesting to feel and see the wake of passing boats while sitting on the reed “floor.” 🙂
November 22, 2023 at 14:28
Great pictures and what sounds like a truly great trip.
November 24, 2023 at 16:06
Hi Mark,
Thanks for swinging by! The trip sure is adventurous and, recently, the scenery in Peru has been spectacular. A redeeming quality of this country…
November 27, 2023 at 12:38
Some amazing stuff that I have never seen in Peru! The colored mountains are really beautiful and cool, and that tall plant is quite intriguing.
December 19, 2023 at 20:42
Hi Lexie!
I now have a top three in Peru! 🙂 Pallcoyo is certainly in that list.
By the way, we finally ate at that cute and unique pizza place in Cusco with my family a couple of weeks ago, Chez Maggie. Very good and special. Thank you for the recommendation! I took photos for you, but forgot to send them. We have been insanely busy (and sick) lately.
November 27, 2023 at 21:52
Looks like you finally caught a break with some good times. Short lived? Then a shitshow? What next, lol. <3
December 19, 2023 at 20:45
Hi Debby,
Sorry for the late replies. It’s been extremely busy for us the last weeks, with family visiting, lots of work assignments, and some driving and sightseeing. But, I really, really hope things settle down soon as I’m seriously over-exhausted and don’t have time for anything fun anymore.
Anyway, I just wrote my post about that shit show and hope to publish it tomorrow, after another day of translation work!
November 28, 2023 at 09:47
Stunning scenery, the Rainbow mountains are so spectacular. Such a shame about being asked to move on or having people banging on your home, but these are the adventures you will always regret.
I remember visiting Puno and the reed islands, such a fascinating place and way of life for the Uros people.
I am looking forward to the next blog post, sounds like the visa run was not for the faint hearted.
November 28, 2023 at 09:50
I meant “these are the adventures you will always remember ( not regret)”, sorry spell check doing something silly.
December 19, 2023 at 20:47
🙂 Yes, we will remember the challenges as well as the biggest joys!
December 19, 2023 at 20:46
Hi Gilda,
I’m so glad you can relate to some of these Peruvian sites we have been exploring recently. Sorry for the late reply, but it’s been insanely busy here for us. Crazy, actually. More than ever before. But, I have been able to finally write about that tricky border run and hope to post about it soon!
November 29, 2023 at 14:04
Beautiful landscape and scenery, Liesbet. I’m glad you got to experience some nice areas in Peru. The visa run at the border sounds stressful. I hope it all worked out by now.
December 19, 2023 at 20:54
Hi Natalie,
Sorry for the late reply. But, the positive is that everything, indeed, has worked out in the end, and especially today, when we finally – and permanently – left Peru! 🙂
We did experience some amazing vistas and sites those last two months. Peru is a mixed bag, but the scenery in some places is truly stunning!
December 10, 2023 at 10:10
What a magical place. I love the rainbow mountains and the stone forrest. But I must ask, why did that local Quechua lady chase you off?
You guys are great at getting to all the tourist hotspots before the tourists arrive. That’s the best way to do it.
Hope everything is ok, Liesbet, and that you have safely made it to Bolivia.
December 19, 2023 at 20:58
Hi Hugh,
My apologies for the late reply to your last comment. Life has been crazy busy, exhausting, and even sick. But, today, we turned the corner and a page, I think! 🙂
The Quechua lady was in her nineties and didn’t have all her marbles anymore, I think. I brought her home safely and then chatted to her son-in-low, who made it sound like she goes for these little walks every day, swinging away with her stick!
One of the biggest advantages of traveling the way we do, is that we have time and we can choose when to visit certain places to avoid the crowds.
Funny thing, Hugh… When you wrote your comment, we were long not in Bolivia. But, guess what? We just crossed the border into this new country a few hours ago! 🙂
December 20, 2023 at 07:35
Good to hear you’ve turned a corner, Liesbet. I hope you’re feeling very better now.
So I’m guessing you’re actually in Bolivia now and will be for Christmas and the beginning of 2024? I hope your Christmas is much better this year, given what happened to you last Christmas Eve.
December 20, 2023 at 14:36
Hi Hugh,
Haha! Yes, we crossed into Bolivia yesterday.
We are actually traveling with the same Canadian friends from last year in Colombia and I told them that they could pick a place for Christmas this year! 🙂 While we prefer quiet areas this time of the year (to avoid fireworks for Maya), it is looking more and more like we will be spending the holiday period just outside of La Paz, the capital of Bolivia…
December 27, 2023 at 21:54
I think the Colored Mountains and the Stone Forest are my favorite too. But it is all so stunning. I love the Puya Raimondii and adore a boat ride – to reed islands, how amazing.
And those decorated llamas. What a great picture! I think having llamas and alpacas in your campsite would be so much better than cows (No offense to Bella).
Oh, but that elevation! We are huffing and puffing at 7000 feet.
January 3, 2024 at 14:31
Hi Duwan,
I guess Mexico City is pretty high as well. But, it has nothing against La Paz in Bolivia, haha. We are living at 12,000ft right now, for a month. Which is not much different than the previous months.
The scenery in Peru is amazing and its “saving grace.” The Colored Mountains is one of my three highlights of Peru. Together with Machu Picchu and the Cordillera Blanca. We are happy the rainy season hadn’t started yet, so we could make it up there and visit in decent weather. Our friends Katherine and Brandon had to abandon that pursuit.
We’ve been loving the presence of llamas and alpacas everywhere. Much more interesting than cows, for sure. Even Bella agrees. 🙂