Salar & Valle de las Rocas in Bolivia
Salar de Uyuni
Salar de Uyuni – or Salar de Tunupa (the local Quechua people prefer to call the area by its original name) – is located 20 minutes north of Uyuni and is the largest salt flat in the world. It measures 12,000 km2, which, to put it in perspective, is a bit over 1/3 the size of Belgium and four times the surface of Luxembourg. For Americans, Rhode Island fits three times into this Salar and Delaware twice – and New Jersey is twice as big.
(As always, click on or hover over photos in galleries to read their captions.)
Many overlanders prefer to drive and camp on this white, vast surface, usually stopping when they can’t see anything but salt around them. A trip on the salt flat with your own vehicle offers a lot of freedom, solitude, and fun, but it also requires protecting the undercarriage from all that destructive salt and giving it a detailed and thorough cleaning in the end. In the dry season. Once the wet season has started in Bolivia, taking your own home on wheels is a bad idea, because the (wet) salt will get anywhere and destroy everything it touches, over time. Plus, some parts of this area are closed when (too) wet.
Reflection pool on the salt flat
With that in mind, Mark, Maya, and I booked a tour for the day. Even better, we arranged a private excursion for our little family to give Maya (who was recovering from a nasty dog bite) enough comfort and space, and to allow us the privacy and freedom of a trip tailored to just the three of us. We could tell our guide wherever we wanted to go on the Salar, what to skip or limit, and whenever we wanted to move on. And, to be honest, at twice the price of a group tour ($120 for the three of us instead of $60), we believed it was worth the splurge. 😊
Our tour started at 10:30am, would finish after sunset, around 8pm, and included lunch and drinks. We decided to skip stop one (the Train Cemetery where we had been living, exploring, and photographing for four days already) and made stop two (salt processing tour and artisanal markets) shorter, for an earlier start on the Salar. A massive rain storm was threatening, so I wanted to stay ahead of that!
Once on the salt flat, the fun could begin! We stopped by the Ojos de Agua, which our Spanish-speaking guide, Eusevio, called the “breath” of the Salar. Water bubbled up from below, as if something was breathing under the surface.
He encouraged us to employ a local guy to take “forced perspective” photos of us and Maya. Since that was affordable, we obliged.
Next, we drove over the white expanse until we didn’t see anything else but salt. It was a crazy sensation and perspective. After a quick stop by the stairs to nowhere, we were the first arrivals at an outdoor exhibit of statues created by salt blocks from the surface.
Eusevio drove us a different direction (how do you know where you are out there, without landmarks?) and stopped in the middle of nowhere, checking for the wind velocity. “Good for lunch?” he asked. Certainly! He constructed a makeshift dining table, chairs, and umbrella for an incredible and exclusive experience: a cooked meal, surrounded by nothing but whiteness and salt! The heat, strong light, and bright reflection – and the food (enough for six people) – made us tired. We concluded the dining session with another photo session.
Our next destination was the one stop we really requested: Isla Incahuasi. As a mirage, it appeared on the horizon, only slowly growing in size. Then, there it was, an island full of cacti and shrubs in the middle of the white desert! Just like when we were sailing in the Pacific Ocean and we “stumbled” upon a tropical island… But the blue had now been replaced by white.
The path ashore consisted of sharp, volcanic rock, but we all managed to climb to the top of the island, including Maya, realizing once again that we were still dealing with high elevations (12,000ft or 3,600m). The bright sun and exertion made me fear a migraine again.
On the drive back towards the edge of the Salar, we made one more stop for “forced perspective” photos, which were taken by Eusevio. And then, the weather turned and we could see a massive thunder storm approach.
We stayed dry while briefly visiting the Salt Hotel, the international flag display, and the Dakar Monument. There was not much left of those last two “icons,” which we both deemed not worth the visit. Therefore, we kept it short.
Our last stop of the day was a “reflection pool,” which is the area of the Salar that has a thin layer of water, this time of the year. As the rain storms would grow larger and more frequent, parts of the salt flat are closed off. And, during the dry season, this pool is nonexistent.
We partook in one more spectacular photo session and were faced with the decision of staying or going. Sunset was not for another hour (a bottle of “golden hour” wine was included in this trip), the thunder and lightning were getting closer, and I was feeling sicker and sicker – and definitely not up for staying any longer or drinking alcohol. These factors made us decide to return home, right through the storm!
The three of us had experienced an amazing day and we would enjoy that bottle of red wine another time! I just wanted to be home in my own bed to battle with yet another horrible migraine.
Valle de las Rocas
Before crossing the border into Chile, we had one more destination in mind: Valle de las Rocas along the northern most part of the infamous Lagunas Route. Initially, we were still contemplating traveling this reputedly beautiful, 300km, potholed, rutted, and washboard road at extreme high elevations. But, after experiencing less than 10km of it to reach de valley of rocks (which took us a bouncy and frustrating hour and a half), we both agreed we were not up for this route! We’ve done enough rocky, bumpy dirt and gravel roads in this last year! Plus, entrance to the park on the Lagunas Route was $20 per person; too steep.
After a quick stop at a canyon, we continued towards a playground of rocks and formations in all shapes.
We found a great camping spot and settled for a handful of days. The wind proved bearable and the sun was present on most days, except when a massive, rare rain and hail storm arrived in this desert landscape.
The following morning, all the mountains and volcanoes in the distance wore white hats!
All three of us loved just wandering among the stone structures, detecting shapes of animals and other forms carved out by wind and water.
The chinchillas were too fast for us to photograph well – and for Maya to chase (which we taught her not to do). She was happy enough sniffing around and finding bones.
One day, we decided to check out what looked like a “balanced rock.” It was as good a destination as anything else!
Another day, we drove to a different section of Valle de las Rocas – it was too far to walk there and back – and hiked a 5-mile (7.5km) loop trail among nature’s playground. No car could follow that track these days, even though we have friends who managed to do so in a Troopy (Land Cruiser).
And lest you think nothing lives in this desert scenery and climate, we spotted vicuñas, foxes, and chinchillas that afternoon. We actually had hoped to camp in this area, but no spot was suitable, so we returned to our original site before dark. It was the best one!
One of the reasons we wanted to stay in Valley of the Rocks – other than its peace and beauty – was to relax a bit after Uyuni and to eat most of our fresh produce, as fruit and vegetables (and meat, fish, eggs, and honey) are prohibited from entering Chile. So, when we were running out of food (who knew what else they would confiscate?), it was time to get going. Towards the next South American country!
Next up: Finally a Plunge book update.
Curious about a previous ten-year chapter in our nomadic lives, which includes eight years aboard a 35-foot sailboat in the tropics with dogs, check out my compelling, inspiring, and refreshingly honest travel memoir:
February 25, 2024 at 11:49
Salar photos are amazing and very amusing! Definitely worth whatever you paid. These two areas look like the best places in Bolivia.
February 25, 2024 at 14:28
Hi Marie,
I’m glad you enjoyed our Salar photos. We had fun with them and cherish that excursion. After a month and a half of “blah” experiences in Bolivia, and missing out on the World Heritage Site of Sucre, these two last – and practically only – destinations we visited in the country were certainly worthwhile.
February 25, 2024 at 12:48
So many juicy bits here, I’ll comment on just one: Your trip on the salt flats. I’m glad you thought about protecting the undercarriage of Thirsty Bella from all that destructive salt. When I lived in Pennsylvania, you’d see lots of rust on vehicles whose owners didn’t think to protect their cars’ chassis from the damage from salt during the winter.
February 25, 2024 at 14:32
Hi Marian,
I really wished we could have stayed longer among the rocky landscape, but we were running out of food and my negotiations with Mark for one extra day here failed! Of course, that changed every following day as every decision has its consequences. Especially relating to the weather.
Salt is the biggest enemy of metal on cars or other items. Just staying at a beach for a few days has us worried and run to a car wash afterwards!
We didn’t take Thirsty Bella on the salt flats, because of our fear for rust and distrust in others doing a good job with the protection and cleaning. And it was the rainy season already, so Mark double vetoed that excursion on our own. It’s why we took a tour. 🙂
February 25, 2024 at 15:31
Reading about the salt lake made me think about growing up in the Midwest when they used to put a lot of salt on the road to take out the slickness. I remember it was hard on the vehicles as rust was a common consequence.
I think of all the dogs we’ve owned and how none have had as adventurous a life as Maya.
February 25, 2024 at 19:12
Hi Pete,
We must have been reading each other’s posts at the same time! I hope you are both feeling better.
Maya – and our previous dogs – sure had an adventurous life and, luckily, it suits her. She is curious on one hand, but just wants to be with us wherever we are or go on the other hand. And, she does have a lot of fears, even though we have worked on that a lot, as well as on her other issues.
I remember when we were looking for a reliable heavy-duty pickup truck in New England, with low miles. It took six months to find one, during Covid! Most of the ones we checked out, even with low miles, had been used to plow snow and they were extremely rusty everywhere. And pricey. Salt doesn’t go well with metal!
February 25, 2024 at 15:58
Those are both amazing locations, but the salt flats edge it because I’ve never seen anything like that. Fabulous photographs! Your guided tour was definitely a good choice.
February 25, 2024 at 19:14
Hi Anabel,
I agree, the Salar was a super unique place. We had been to and on salt lakes before, high in the Andes Mountains, but this one was of an entirely different scale. And so bright! Salt is still mined and processed as well, so the flat is being used for several purposes. I’m glad you enjoyed the photos!
February 25, 2024 at 16:04
Your private excursion looks wonderful and was a great call. Awesome photos and life-long memories! <3
February 25, 2024 at 19:16
Hi Donna,
That private tour on the salt flat was one of those rare splurges that we feel was worth it. Usually, those splurges go to eating out, haha. But I kept thinking that if we would drive ourselves, the damage from salt would cost hundreds of dollars in the future, so $120 for a tour like this would be a better use of our money.
February 25, 2024 at 16:09
Wow, finally some spectacular scenery that wasn’t accompanied by stress and trauma. (Except for your migraine, of course – that must have been awful.) I loved the ‘heart’ photo you did at the reflecting pool! 🙂
February 25, 2024 at 19:18
Yes, Diane!
I almost got cocky after these two experiences, thinking that life on the road was finally starting to go our way. Haha. Famous last thoughts. Anyway, you will have to stay tuned for our latest “disaster” of which we are still feeling the aftermath – physically and logistically.
I’m glad – but surprised – you liked our heart photo. You do have a soft edge! 🙂
February 25, 2024 at 16:35
This looks great.. Love all the photos. Especially with Maya. So how do we hook up with Eusevio, the guide?
February 25, 2024 at 19:30
Hi Susan,
Many companies in Uyuni give you the choice of doing a group or a private day tour on the Salar and there is another option that was tempting as well: the company we used specializes in a three-day, two-night tour that follows the entire Lagunas Route towards the southern border with Chile, including hot springs and spectacular lakes. Not for the faint of heart, because of the washboard roads, but relatively affordable and a great adventure!
Anyway, after visiting different travel agencies in person, the company we used and recommend is called Discovery Colored Lagoons (https://discovery.coloredlagoons.com/), with Eusevio and other drivers, and Susana being our spokesperson in the office. If you want an English-speaking guide, you have to pay extra. With every company. It is possible to negotiate on the price. 🙂
February 25, 2024 at 16:37
I love how this post is full of beauty and positive experiences. I was a bit worried about you after reading of some of your past challenges. The salt flats and Valley of Rocks look amazing.
February 25, 2024 at 19:32
Hi Janis,
I feel like these two spots were our reward for putting up with Bolivia and its antics. 🙂 Both places were true highlights and we are happy to have given them a chance. Valle de las Rocas was initially not on the agenda, since we wanted to cross into Argentina and it wouldn’t have been on our route. So, the entire episode with the road blocks and hassles with the health certificate for Maya lead us into this direction.
February 25, 2024 at 18:31
We took a group tour through Salar that we booked on the spur of the moment in Uyuni to San Pedro de Atacama, Chile. We didn’t know about many of the amazing sights you got to see but we still thought it was one of the most thrilling tours we’ve done. Glad you had a blast except for the migraine.
February 25, 2024 at 19:34
Hi Annie,
That multiple-day tour to San Pedro de Atacama (our next big destination) sounded so attractive, especially since someone else would have done all the driving. I’m really glad you and Steve booked that trip, as we’ve heard amazing things about that route and its scenery. Did you return to Bolivia after that tour or get out in Chile and explored that country next?
February 25, 2024 at 18:45
Love the photos from the Salar and the private tour sounds perfect. Thank you for sharing!
February 25, 2024 at 19:37
Hello Tracy (I hope that’s your name :)),
Thank you for swinging by Roaming About and leaving a comment. I’m glad you enjoyed the photos of the spectacular Salar in Bolivia. I’m very happy to share our experiences – the good, the bad, and the ugly – and photos and I hope you’ll continue to follow along!
February 26, 2024 at 06:23
I had never heard of the Solar de Uyuni and am amazed at its size. Just beautiful! Oh, and the forced perspective photos! What fun! Love the one of a giant Maya and you two looking up! The salt statues were fascinating out in the middle of nowhere. If you didn’t have photos of Isla Incahuasi, I would not believe a place like that could have existed in the middle of all that salt. Sorry to hear about another migraine. What beautiful photos of the desert landscape. Some of the formations were fascinating. Thank you for sharing. Jim
February 26, 2024 at 08:06
Hi Jim,
The Salar de Uyuni is a spectacular place and Bolivia’s pride. 🙂 Yes, we sure had fun with those perspective photos. It was trickier and more tiring than expected, especially for the photographer, I think. We did luck out with Maya sticking her tongue out at the moment of the photo shoot. And, that island in the midst of the salt flats did look surreal. Apparently, there are others like Incahuasi – but not touristy – which is where most overlanders go and camp when they take their own vehicle on the salt.
March 3, 2024 at 18:03
I love these photos! Like you I’m not really interested in expensive tours but this one seemed like it was really worth it. What an amazing splurge. I love the whole concept of touring the salt flats and taking creative photos. I think it’d be amazing to camp on the flats but I’d really never thought about how the salt could damage your rig. My favorite pic is the giant Maya towering over the two of you. She poses so well!
And I loved the Valle de las Rocas. It’s so reminiscent of being in the US Southwest in all the different places we’ve visited with rock formations. What a great camping spot!
March 4, 2024 at 19:56
Hi Duwan,
Yes, we did splurge on the Salar Tour. What happened was that a virtual overland friend of ours, Geneva from “It’s not a slow car, it’s a fast house” posted about their private experience on the Salar and recommended it to us, especially with a dog. But, her tour was crazy expensive. So, Mark and I said to each other, if we can do it for around $100, it’ll be worth it. Plus, we won’t damage our truck. So, that’s what happened. We shopped around (all in Spanish, of course :)) and managed to do it our way at our price. 🙂
Valle de las Rocas was one of our favorite camping spots on this trip so far. We lucked out with the weather as well, which helped.
March 6, 2024 at 07:21
These has to be my favourite places of all that you have visited, Liesbet. Those salt flats look like they are on another planet. And who have thought that there is an island in the middle of them with lots of plant life. I love all the photos, well worth the money as was the private tour.
And those rocks! Wow! How on earth is that rock balanced like that on top of another one? It always amazes me where wildlife and plants survive.
Good to see you guys wearing hats in the sun, protecting yourselves and covering up.
So pleased that Maya joined you on the salt flats tour, too.
March 11, 2024 at 14:37
Hi Hugh!
I’m so glad you enjoyed the photos of the salt flats and the rocks. That was all near Uyuni, the miserable town where Maya got bitten and where garbage and dust collects… So strange, right? Natural beauty around a “shithole”.
I have to agree with you, those natural sites were pretty high on my list of adventures and locations as well. I’m glad we persevered in Bolivia, as the country didn’t do much for us as a whole. These places were its redeeming quality. 🙂
We are impressed by balanced rocks as well and often like to walk around them, to understand the law of gravity. Usually, there is a view/angle of a wider base on one side. Still impressive!
Yes, we are very careful in the sun, especially Mark, who is extra prone to some cancers. We always, always wear a hat and I’ve gotten better wearing sunglasses over the years. Mark puts sunscreen on at least once a day, especially when we plan to be outdoors. And, we always favor the shade when walking.
One of the main reasons we opted for a private salt flat tour was for Maya. She is often the defining and deciding factor in what we do and where we go. 🙂