As overlanders, Mark and I are not city people. Being camped in nature without any human presence or noises is our happy place. Yet, the three of us spent a full two weeks in Santiago de Chile, a capital city of 7 million! This was our all-time “stationary” boondocking record after a year and a half in South America. Jardin, Colombia, is now the runner-up at nine nights. What happened?
Well, this lifestyle is full of surprises. Bad ones and good ones. It had been a while since fate smiled down upon us, but Santiago – which is expensive and not even an interesting tourist destination – ticked some of our required boxes. With ease. We were quite happy there. Read on to learn why…
Group shot in the park
(Photo courtesy of Richie Gubler)
Why back to Chile?
If you’ve been following our blog, you might have noticed that some hardships were encountered in Northern Argentina. Nothing disastrous, really, but after getting tired of similar issues in Peru and Bolivia, mostly regarding loose, aggressive dogs, dusty and dirty surroundings, and third-world living conditions, we had hoped for a reprieve of those in Argentina, especially after finding cleanliness and modernity in Northern Chile. When not finding that quite yet, we opted to return to Chile for a bit.
Another consideration was Maya’s international health certificate we obtained in Chile, the end of February. It was valid for sixty days, allowing free entries and exits for our dog between Argentina and Chile until the end of April. We figured we’d take advantage of that permit again, three weeks before it expired.
But the most important reason for our little sojourn back into Chile was truck maintenance. Imported parts are much cheaper there than in Argentina, as we realized when buying our first set of two new tires in Iquique a couple of months ago. Unfortunately, we didn’t purchase four at the time.
That being said, we chose Santiago to replace the other two tires, install a new battery, and do another oil change. Yeah, our expense report for April won’t be pretty again…
Our Providencia neighborhood in Santiago by night
(Photo courtesy of Richie Gubler)
Our fantastic camping spot
The biggest surprise that greeted us in Santiago was the place we opted to wild camp at, based on reviews in iOverlander. It was easy to see why every overlander seemed to flock here!
(As always, hover over or click on photos in galleries to read their captions.)
We parked along a quiet street next to Parque Metropolitano with the hill Cerro San Cristobal, which provided us with walking trails, green grass, public toilets, trash cans, and even water fountains when in need of drinking water. Which – at some point – we were, since we never expected to stay put for two weeks. This spot was also within walking distance of the biggest Jumbo grocery store we’ve ever seen.
Not only is this unofficial camping area in the upscale neighborhood of Providencia free and safe, but the neighbors were friendly, not minding the international company and big rigs. As a matter of fact, it felt like we were quite the attraction during the busy weekends, when locals and tourists alike inspected all the campers, took photos, and chatted with their inhabitants.
The only issue we faced here was the lack of sunshine. Fall has arrived in the Southern Hemisphere, which means the sun sits lower in the sky and doesn’t linger long. On top of that, ample trees alongside the road stole away the little bit of sunshine that was left. In turn, we had to run our car engine often to keep our camper battery charged enough to use computers and Starlink internet for work.
Our little family in the park
(Photo courtesy of Richie Gubler)
The truck projects
From the moment we arrived in Santiago and before we even got settled, Mark and I stopped in an industrial area to look for the right-size battery and the correct synthetic oil we needed for the car. We were not successful on any of these accounts, but we managed to get our bearings and shop at a grocery store.
During the following days, Mark ordered the car battery from a shop online (using fake credentials to make the order go through and then, we had to call to provide the correct information) and – lo and behold – it was delivered to a neighbor’s address, but we managed to intercept it right in time!
We drove the camper back into the capital for an oil change that came with a caveat. Under no circumstance are we having mechanics do this for us anymore. Both previous times, in Colombia and Peru, the changing of the oil was included in the purchase price of the product and the employees messed things up. They overfilled the reservoir and, once, the mechanic misthreaded the bolt for the pan, making the fill challenging the second time, causing that mechanic to add tape to the threads, which had us worried about shredded pieces thereof entering the oil and ruining the engine!
In Chile, the work is not included when you buy motor oil at a garage. We talked to the cashier about doing the job ourselves. We still had to pay the service fee, but that was okay. Of course, once we stepped into the workshop, in shorts and flip flops, we were met by raised eyebrows. It took some convincing, before Mark was allowed in the pit! He needed to assess the “tape situation” and he wanted to add a foolproof bolt, with a valve, for future oil changes, to end the misery of unprofessionalism when retightening the bolt for once and for all.
And then, Mark realized our two older tires didn’t have as much life left as he thought two months prior, so we tackled that project. Because, you know, we were in Chile and that’s where parts might be available. We did find the right size tires, but they were 50% more expensive than the ones we bought in the free zone of Iquique in February. Just like before, installation was not included.
We took the camper off the truck (to not repeat the stress and worry at that garage in Iquique) and tipped a parking attendant for making sure nobody blocked Bella, so we could load her up afterwards. Then, we braved Santiago traffic, just in the truck, to buy and pick up tires and have them installed somewhere else.
Being super proficient at adding the camper back on the truck by now, we happily returned to our parking spot next to the grass. The truck to-do list was completed!
Downtown Santiago
One day, Mark, Maya, and I planned to take the teleférico (cable car) and funicular up through the park and down to the edge of the historic center, walk around the city, and take a cab back. That plan failed. The cable car station was closed unexpectedly for repairs and when trying to take a taxi back, the driver dropped us in the wrong place, so the three of us ended up walking everywhere; a total of 10 miles (16 km).
Part of the walk was nice, alongside parks and green spaces, of which there are many in greater Santiago. We even stumbled upon a super colorful, fresh, and attractive produce market, but still had the entire day ahead of us, so only bought precious Brussels sprouts.
Once we reached the congested parts of downtown, graffiti was smeared everywhere and there definitely was an unsavory and unsafe element to certain areas, especially Plaza de Armas, which is usually the nicest part of any city.
As luck would have it, a massive demonstration was taking place in the center of town, with a massive police presence and lots of roads and sidewalks blocked off.
In general, there is not much to see in Chile’s capital and we were glad to return to our pretty, clean, green, and safe neighborhood for the rest of our time here.
Parque Metrolopitano
Santiago Metropolitan Park is huge and consists of many hills and regions. It is the largest urban park in Chile and the second-biggest one in South America. San Cristobal hill was the closest landmark to us.
On a clear day, we did manage to finally take the teleférico to the top of the park with Maya and some friends. We walked to the statue of the Virgin Mary and had a prepacked picnic lunch, before following forest trails back down the hill.
Another day, a dog event took place, which we partly joined with other friends, before continuing a walk with just our little group. Because it was Sunday, the trails were extremely busy with hikers and bikers.
Museo Ralli
Ever since I read the Lonely Planet section about Santiago, I’ve wanted to check out the Ralli Museum, which has branches throughout the world and is free. After an hour-long walk from our home, I happened to time my visit with that of hordes of school children, so it wasn’t the quietest experience.
Yet, I enjoyed my me-time in the museum, especially when observing the statues of Salvador Dali and the colorful paintings of new-to-me Chilean artist Mario Gomez.
Meeting friends
Our main reason to visit Santiago was car projects, but the social scene is why we stayed an extra week! A few days after we arrived, Marcia, Kilian, and kitten Finnley from Gato Goes Global pulled in to do a big city shopping spree.
The same evening, Richie, Abigail, and daughter Zoe, the Meat Around The World crew, joined our row of campers. We had not seen them for over a year, after meeting in Jardin, Colombia. It was a fun reunion.
Because of truck issues, the family was forced to spend almost two weeks here as well, so it was nice to be there as a distraction for them (offering mental support and ideas) and to share many happy hours and dinners in the park. Plus, Bryce and Cristina, a wonderful American-Chilean couple and followers of this blog, swung by for an entertaining visit and chat about the nomadic lifestyle as well.
Just when we were ready to leave the capital city, we heard the Vermonsters (Heather and Jon) were headed our way, also to get their truck fixed. Since we had hoped to meet up with them for ages on this continent already (they’d passed us by ship, starting further south and following an opposite route), we gladly extended our stay.
We had a nice community going and – despite health and vehicle issues – managed to have a wonderful time together, hoping to repeat that again in Mendoza or elsewhere in South America!
Our fabulous group of friends until the end of our stay – Mark, Richie, Abigail, Zoe, Heather, and Jon
Next up: Another not-so-pretty monthly expense report for April 2023!
Curious about a previous ten-year chapter in our nomadic lives, which includes eight years aboard a 35-foot sailboat in the tropics with dogs, check out my compelling, inspiring, and refreshingly honest travel memoir:
May 1, 2024 at 12:47
I like so much about this post! I love seeing Maya content. I love that you were able to camp by a nice park for weeks and the neighbors didn’t give you grief! And that you made so many friends.
Santiago looks quite modern with all the tall buildings and the historic district looks nice. And that museum with all the Dali sculptures! I’m not sure I saw that many sculptures in the Dali Museum in Florida.
I’m impressed that Mark got into the pit. Has he ever been in a pit like that before. I’m also surprised that they let him do it. That would never fly in the US. I wonder if he will be allowed in the pit for your next oil change in your next country.
You will need to elaborate on the whole battery buy and delivery business in your next expense report. I’m curious about the fake credentials and the interception.
May 3, 2024 at 07:52
Hi Duwan,
I actually enjoyed writing this post, because Santiago was such a positive experience. All of it. We even dealt with the annoyances (like not having enough power and water) with a smile. 🙂 And, we all love grass, which is not so easy to find at boondocking spots.
Santiago has a few upscale neighborhoods, which is the best place to be for walks in parks and visits to museums. The downtown had a grungy aspect to it and many homeless people were gathered along the river and in parks there.
This was the first time Mark ever went into an oil change pit and the mechanic helped him find the right tools. There were discussions about him not being able to get in, because of liability reasons, but we managed to convince the bos. 🙂
In the future, we will do the oil changes from underneath the car, like we were used to in the US. This time, because Mark didn’t know the condition of the plug and was worried we might be stuck somewhere if it was really bad, he wanted to be at a garage. Since he replaced the plug with a valve, we now don’t need garages anymore.
I’ll try to remember elaborating a bit on the battery buying process in my upcoming expense report. It’s not a simple process to buy things online in foreign countries.
May 1, 2024 at 13:59
Lots of work on your truck but you certainly picked a beautiful spot.
May 3, 2024 at 07:53
Hi Alex,
Our stay in Santiago was a nice balance between work and pleasure. 🙂
May 1, 2024 at 19:05
What a wonderful community you are part of. I’m glad that you were able to extend your stay. And as a bonus, I am delighted that Maya has been so contented!
Once again, I look forward to your next post (the adventure that is)!
May 3, 2024 at 07:56
Hi Donna,
The overlanding community is very different from the sailing/cruising community which is a closer-knit bunch. We haven’t been able to bond with many and most meetings turn into just acquaintances. So, when we find kindred spirits, it is always special. 🙂
I might disappoint you with my next blog posts, because what we are actually doing right now, to some extent, is biding time until we head to our home countries. It’s too cold south of here, so we will slowly mosey our way to Buenos Aires by June.
May 1, 2024 at 20:48
Amazing how all the pieces seem to fit together for you. Love following along!
May 3, 2024 at 07:57
Hi Jacqui,
That’s a nice summary of our time in Santiago. It really felt like things worked out and we had the right moods to deal with whatever would come our way. Having lots of time helps!
May 2, 2024 at 09:52
What a great couple of weeks! Productive, social, attractive, relaxing … I could go on. Happy you got a really nice break in a place you would not have expected it.
May 3, 2024 at 07:58
Hi Lexie,
You sum up our stop in Santiago very well. It was a nice mix of elements and because we weren’t in a rush and managed to get “emergency water and electricity” and didn’t feel unwelcome by the local community, we could stay as long as we felt like.
May 2, 2024 at 10:34
Your posts are finally landing in my blog notifications. I didn’t know Santiago was so huge, but at least you got things done. Hans and his brother stayed in Santiago (near family) 10 years ago to bring home their older brothers ashes after 5 days of negotiations. At least Santiago acts like an urban city. Your images are stunning of the various vistas of the city. Glad you are all doing well.
May 3, 2024 at 08:24
Hello Terri!
Welcome back! Not sure which games WordPress is playing…
I forgot Hans spent time in South America before. Was his older brother living in Argentina?
Yeah, one of the reasons why we like Chile – especially since we haven’t really seen any natural highlights in the north yet – is for its western appeal. The roads are wonderfully paved, most people are educated, dogs behave, and parts are available there.
May 2, 2024 at 16:18
Two weeks in one place!!! Congratulations! Sounds like you got a lot done there… truck maintenance> Tires! Battery! Oil Change! Your camp spot sounds and looks excellent! Interesting finagling to get your battery… creative!!! Your stay sounds like a beautiful experience. Glad you had time with friends. Jim
May 3, 2024 at 08:28
Hi Jim,
Isn’t that part of your 4-3-2 rule? Staying put for two weeks? We did it! Unplanned, haha. It certainly is a weight off our shoulders to get all the car maintenance done. For now anyway. Too many I erkenders get stuck in garages and campgrounds, dealing with issues. We hope that with preventative maintenance and anticipations, we don’t get into those “stuck” situations.
Sometimes, it’s nice to be social for a while and have friends around. But, we like our solitude and peace as well, so a balance between the two is our goal.
May 2, 2024 at 16:28
Sounds good! Lots of jobs done and friendships made / renewed.
May 3, 2024 at 08:29
Hi Annabel,
Yes, Santiago was a good stay for many reasons. But, we still have to be impressed with Chile’s natural beauty and highlights… Next austral summer! 🙂
May 3, 2024 at 10:30
Self hosted sites don’t play well with WordPress dot com. Rudy lived in Santiago. All the kids were born in Colombia but moved to Chile before moving to San Diego.
May 3, 2024 at 11:23
That’s right! Thanks for refreshing my memory, Terri. Colombia has been our favorite country in South America so far!
May 5, 2024 at 13:07
It’s nice to hear that you’ve had some more enjoyable times! Here’s hoping for more sunshine for you. 🙂
May 7, 2024 at 10:05
Thanks a lot, Diane! Winter is coming, so I hope we will be able to get that sunshine – for our moods and our camper battery! 🙂
May 6, 2024 at 19:44
What a wonderful journey – bumps and all. <3
May 7, 2024 at 10:06
Hi Debby!
Good point! The bumps were minor in Santiago and I think that’s one of the reasons we enjoyed it there so much. 🙂 Enjoy spring!!!
May 7, 2024 at 10:29
Glad you’ve found your comfort spot. 🙂 Happy spring to you too!! <3
May 9, 2024 at 14:13
Thank you, dear Debby! Except it’s fall here and pretty darn cold, haha.
May 10, 2024 at 08:28
Lol, my bad, hard to keep up with everyone’s different climates, let alone my own! 🙂 🙂 🙂
May 10, 2024 at 12:08
Haha, Debby! No worries. I am usually a northern hemisphere girl! 🙂
May 8, 2024 at 07:15
Santiago is a place I have always been fascinated with, but I’ve never known why, Liesbet. But I’m glad you stayed for so long and found a lovely spot for Thirty Bella. It looks like all your meals were with the group in the park rather than going out for meals. But given that Jumbo supermarket, I don’t blame you stocking up and eating in the autumnal sunshine.
I’ve said it before, but thank goodness for Mark knowing his way around the mechanics of Thirty Bella. You guys must save a fortune with him doing many of the repairs.
Shame the cable car was out of action, but all that walking is certainly keeping your step count up. Hopefully, it all means good nights of sleep, too.
May 9, 2024 at 14:43
Hi Hugh,
Mark being able to fix everything (or learn from YouTube) is such a big help, money saver, and factor of being self-sufficient! It’s super important in our lives and lifestyle, for sure. Especially when we were sailing before.
Interesting that you had a curiosity about Santiago de Chile. Maybe it was because of its name? I had been drawn to this city as well, not knowing why. To be honest, there is nothing much to see, but I was happy we spent two weeks there, just to soak up the atmosphere, western mentality, and life in a capital city.
May 10, 2024 at 16:59
Just a note, about halve way down the photos do not load up. Also tried on 2 other browsers.
May 12, 2024 at 12:18
Sorry to read that, Susan. Maybe the internet had a hiccup? Glad to read that they eventually all loaded. I always resize my photos a bunch so people can load them easily, but when I post many photos, it still takes a while.
May 10, 2024 at 17:02
Never mind, they downloaded. Cheers!
May 12, 2024 at 12:18
Great! Thanks for letting me know the photos eventually downloaded, Susan.