Mark, Maya, and I had just started our camp host duties at Las Lomas in La Paz, Bolivia, at the end of December 2023 and our Canadian friends Sheri and Jeff were with us in their truck camper. Jeff and I had done a couple of crazy things in South America so far, like jump off a bridge in Baños, Ecuador, and order patitas from a toothless street vendor in La Paz. If you follow our Roaming About page on Facebook, you might remember that shocking food discovery. If not, I suggest you Google what patitas are. 🙂
So, when Jeff was looking for an adventurous buddy to bike down the World’s Most Dangerous Road, which is located near La Paz, the only thing that kept me from joining was the tour price of around US$70. Then I remembered I still had gift money from my parents. The game was on!
Group shot above a valley
The two of us did a bit of research into tour companies (these daytrips range from $60-$120), picked a middle-of-the-road agency with good reviews (Vertigo), and booked our mountain bike tour for December 29th. There was one problem, however: the company needed at least three participants to set out on Death Road. Luckily, we had a full campground by then and I succeeded in arranging a group of seven people to participate: six bicyclists and one sightseer.
The official name of Death Road is North Yungas Road. Its other famous nickname of The World’s Most Dangerous Road was appointed in 1995 after 200 to 300 people died yearly in accidents, usually from vehicles falling off the steep cliffs. The road is gravel and narrow, single-lane in most places, with barely a guardrail or space to pull over.
In 2009, the government built a paved road nearby and the old, dangerous, gravel road turned into a tourist attraction. It is still possible to drive this part in a vehicle, but the track is dominated by tour groups on mountain bikes. Death Road is a 61km (38 miles) downhill adventure that starts high in the Andes at 15,100ft (4,600m) and ends in the jungle at 3,900ft (1,200m)!
Needless to say, it is a thrill to zoom down this endless hill on a bumpy, rocky road, where one fall or miscalculation of a bend in the hairpin turns can send you over the edge and cost you your life! Did I mention that I’d never mountain biked before?
The first hour of this adventure took place on downhill pavement with the usual pothole and passing car – to get used to the bikes and the speed (up to 60km or 37 miles per hour on this stretch). Then, we had breakfast, before starting the challenging part: Death Road.
There was plenty of opportunity to take a break – and photos – when the guide indicated stops. It was a fast ride – all we had to do was operate the brakes and intently focus on the track – and everyone seemed to ride at the same level and speed.
We crossed rivers and passed under waterfalls. The climate changed drastically as we descended and layers of clothing had to come off in stages.
This exhilarating trip stopped at a hotel with swimming pool, showers, and buffet lunch, before the three-hour journey back to La Paz. We left the campground at 6:30am and returned around 8:30pm! But it was an adventure to never forget. Another one for the books, Jeff! 😊
Here are some videos to get a better feel for this thrilling ride…
Curious about a previous ten-year chapter in our nomadic lives, which includes eight years aboard a 35-foot sailboat in the tropics with dogs, check out my compelling, inspiring, and refreshingly honest travel memoir:
February 10, 2024 at 14:38
Hey, there’s a guardrail in that third video. What a bunch of sissies… NOT. Quite the experience I’m sure. Good you went for it!
February 10, 2024 at 14:42
Haha, Leslie! Yes, that guardrail in that video (which is what the videographer is standing on) threw me off as well and made me change my original text of “no guardrails” to “few guardrails.” I did change that, didn’t I? 🙂 It was an awesome and exhilarating experience. Happy I went. And with a friend. Mark would never be game…
February 10, 2024 at 15:06
That would be a big nope for me… but how great that you had the experience!
February 11, 2024 at 08:56
Haha, Janis. Yeah, this thrill is not for everyone. You need to really trust in yourself – and the bike, especially the brakes!
February 11, 2024 at 22:10
Me, I trust. The bike’s brakes? Maybe not so much.
February 13, 2024 at 12:49
🙂 I totally get that, Janis! Especially in these countries.
February 10, 2024 at 16:03
Well, you lived to tell the story and show us some amazing videos!
February 11, 2024 at 08:58
That is a fact, Marian. It was an exhilarating experience! And, I was very happy not to end this day with a migraine, which is what usually happens after full day trips in which I exert myself. I guess bicycling downhill is not too much of an exertion! (But the heat and humidity in the jungle was a bit oppressive.) 🙂
February 11, 2024 at 07:40
Walking or running down it, yes, but don’t think I’d try it on a bike. I am not a thrill seeker. But since you are, that’s great you got a group together and did it.
February 11, 2024 at 09:01
That would be a super long walk, Alex, but I see how it might be more pleasant. At that pace, you could at least enjoy the scenery!
February 11, 2024 at 08:45
I cannot bear to watch the videos! I am dying inside just thinking about it.
February 11, 2024 at 09:02
Hi Anabel,
I think the videos are pretty benign, as we weren’t going too fast in those. But, the entire ride down the mountain was pretty crazy!
February 11, 2024 at 14:44
Wow!!! That is one incredible adventure. You are much braver than I will ever be (especially on bike). Oh, and I will also pass on the tomato-based stew of pigs’ trotters with chickpeas. I love travelling vicariously with you (safely from my comfy armchair). <3
February 13, 2024 at 12:43
Hi Donna,
I’m glad you are still enjoying our adventures – the mellow ones and the more exhilarating ones. 🙂
The patitas I had was a street food snack consisting of fried pig feet, including the tendons, bones, cartilage, and fat! So, an even grosser version of what Google told you.
February 11, 2024 at 22:07
What an interesting way to be thrilled. I’ve seen bikers go down at fast speed and twisty mountain road from a volcanoe/ national park in Hawaii. Glad you enjoyed biking down Death Road.
February 13, 2024 at 12:48
Hi Natalie,
Yes, in the past I have seen cyclists go down mountains (which we drive down with our camper) at high speeds as well. I would never see myself do that. Opposing traffic or passing traffic would scare me. I guess this adventure was somewhat different, since there were only a few vehicles we met during the three hours of downhill thrill and they always pulled to the side.
February 12, 2024 at 02:34
Liesbet you are a daredevil!! Such an exhilarating experience, with great scenery all around. Well done indeed to you and your group of cyclists.
February 13, 2024 at 12:50
Hi Gilda!
This was a thrill for sure. Once in a while, I “need” an adrenaline rush like this to feel alive. Most of our adventures are pretty mellow compared to biking Death Road, haha.
February 12, 2024 at 13:12
Wow, that’s more adrenaline than I need. The mountain biking would be scary enough – I can’t even imagine what it must have been like to drive that road in a vehicle!
February 13, 2024 at 12:53
Hi Diane,
I think it was mostly bouncy for the person who went as a sightseer in the van. Those vans are pretty narrow and our driver had been driving this particular road for twelve years, every day.
But – I agree – I wouldn’t want to drive anything wider than a jeep down or up that road. Jeff and I had a good look around and I concluded I would never take our Thirsty Bella on that road. He was convinced his truck camper could clear anything. Nope. Way too narrow – and low – at times, plus, no space to pull over anywhere when there’s an opposing vehicle.
February 12, 2024 at 19:20
That sounds so up our alley! We had planned on a month in Bolivia in July but just got a pet/house sit instead in Bequia. Will rearrange our schedule but defiantly want to have this experience. So you totally recommend the tour company you went with? Thank and happy traveling!
February 13, 2024 at 13:01
Hi Susan,
I think you two would love this ride and adventure. It’s a lot of fun, as long as you concentrate and are in control. Yes, I would recommend the tour company Vertigo. My first choice was Barracuda, but I couldn’t get a hold of them, so gave up after a while.
We know people who enjoyed the tour with Barracuda as well. The price is similar, but with them, there is a slightly uphill part to bike, to reach the hotel (with pool and buffet), which they work with. While for us, with Vertigo, we stopped at the bottom of the hill and got a ride to the hotel (with pool and buffet) they work with.
Also, but maybe that’s because our group all knew each other and were all from the same spot, the campground, we got to decide when the van returned to La Paz, arriving back in the city around 6pm or so, while the groups of Barracuda didn’t arrive back in La Paz until two hours later.
Your house sitting plans sound awesome. Let me know if you’d like to meet friends of ours who live on Bequia when you are there… 🙂
February 12, 2024 at 20:18
Woman! You are a daredevil. With 37 mile drops, hairpin turns and so many deaths on that road you went. Must have been exhilarating. 🙂 <3
February 13, 2024 at 13:04
Haha, Debby. What’s life without a good thrill once in a while? I’m actually happy I still get to do exhilarating things like these, especially since Mark had no interest at all. He has fear of heights and he walks, rides, and drives a bit more careful through life than me. That’s why it’s perfect that he is Thristy Bella’s driver! Because, believe me, driving in some of these countries is crazier than biking Death Road! 🙂
February 13, 2024 at 15:50
Lol Liesbet, I’m with Mark. 🙂
February 16, 2024 at 11:24
🙂
February 13, 2024 at 01:11
The picture with the folks sitting at the edge of the cliff is perhaps the most stunning. I would consider doing something like this, but I would have to talk myself into it.
February 13, 2024 at 13:06
Hi Pete,
I’m glad you liked the cliff edge photo. Some of us didn’t want to sit down in that spot.
I understand how you would have to talk yourself into doing an adventure like this, but I would actually recommend NOT putting too much thought in it, as your mind would convince you to reconsider and not to do it. Because the ride down is pretty insane. But, then again, it’s safe enough and very popular! 🙂
February 21, 2024 at 10:07
Death Road sounds like something out of a sci-fi movie. Not for me, I’m afraid, but well done for doing it. I’d not have even be able to look over the edge to take any photos. Heights and me do not mix well.
February 23, 2024 at 13:03
I had a feeling Death Road wouldn’t make it on your “to do” list, Hugh. I don’t think it’s many people’s cup of tea, especially when you are afraid of heights and a cautious person by nature. Like Mark. As for me, I need a little adrenaline rush once in a while. It makes me feel super alive. 🙂
March 4, 2024 at 17:48
I might be tempted to drive down this road in a small nimble vehicle, but I just don’t feel comfortable on a bike going that fast!
What a fun tour!
March 5, 2024 at 11:49
Hi Duwan,
It was a crazy bike ride, for sure. I’d say only for experienced mountain bikers or daredevils. 🙂 I think you’d have more fun taking creative photographs on the Salar!