After Mark, Maya, and I finished our car projects and left the comfortable and safe haven of friend Graham’s driveway in Ibarra, we only had four weeks left to explore the central and southern part of Ecuador, before our three-month visas expired. We hadn’t gotten very far yet, after two months!
Our visited sites in Central Ecuador
Cotopaxi Volcano
We drove a bunch to pick up our trail from a month prior, south of Quito, the country’s capital. Our first stop was the impressive Cotopaxi volcano, which is often hiding in the frequent clouds at this altitude.
Thanks to our free iOverlander app, we found a peaceful wild camping spot near the national park. We failed to see the mountain, but we persevered, spending two nights at 12,000ft (3,650m) without internet, walking Maya in the paramo, meeting wild horses, running our heater at night, and waiting for a glimpse.
On our second evening, after the sun set, we spotted Cotopaxi’s snowy top. The light was not ideal for optimal viewing or photography. We crossed our fingers for a clear morning the following day as, unfortunately, we couldn’t stay longer due to the lack of cell service.
And, look what we woke up to on day three! Time for photo shoots – and to drive into the national park for an up-close view and feel of Cotopaxi!
Since dogs are technically not allowed in Ecuadorian national parks (which are free), Maya stayed in the car and camper during our visit. We first drove to a small lake with decent views.
Then, our heavy vehicle managed to climb the volcano itself, to the parking lot at 15,000ft (4,570m), from where visitors can ascend the mountain to a glacier and refugio (shelter/restaurant). It is possible to climb further to the top with a guide. As you can imagine, the air was thin here and putting one foot in front of the other laborious. Mark made it “up there,” but I had to turn around when dizziness and a serious headache threatened.
Quilotoa Lagoon
Quilotoa has been a highlight for many visitors to Ecuador, so we had to check it out. The road to the small town with the same name was paved and pretty, but realizing that hundreds of homeless, starving dogs are being dumped and now linger along this “highway” was heart-breaking.
Again, we climbed to an altitude of about 13,000ft (around 4,000m) and were really cold at night, with condensation dripping from the ceiling of our camper. Drops falling on our sleeping bag with plop sounds and on our dog freaked her out, so Maya slept with us. Just like when fireworks interrupt everyone’s sanity.
The clouds and fog cleared around dusk, so we managed to see this beautiful crater lake on our first afternoon. The following morning, we walked along some of the extinct volcano’s rim. Breathing was difficult, so we only hiked for a couple of hours.
On the drive back down to the main highway, we stopped at a viewpoint over a canyon. It was nothing special, but we had to take a selfie on the cute heart-shaped bench, since that day, July 6th, was our 16th wedding anniversary. A sweet coincidence.
We also paid a visit to a world-renowned artist, the 82-year-old Julio Toaquiza Tigasi, who operates the family’s art gallery in Tigua. Mark and I bought two small paintings by his son, Wilson.
Baños
Our next destination was the tourist town of Baños, a bit off the PanAmerican Highway. Friends had recommended this area to us. It is, indeed, beautifully located in a green and lush valley.
While the city itself appeared too busy and party-prone for us (more sleepless nights parked along the side of a street), we enjoyed some activities on offer, like good restaurants and markets, walkable streets and squares, and lit-up structures.
The natural surroundings were pleasing, as well as meeting fellow overlanders.
Oh, and I jumped off a bridge, too.
The main attractions of Baños are its heaps of waterfalls further afield. One morning, we made the wet and steep descend to Machay Waterfall. It seems like the rainy season never leaves here…
In the afternoon, we parked in Rio Verde for the night and the three of us hiked down to the main highlight of this region, Cascada El Pailon del Diablo, an amazing sight!
Once you reach the waterfall itself, you can crawl through a low tunnel and wet cave to arrive at another viewpoint. From there, it is possible to actually disappear behind the strong and voluminous cascade of water – and get soaking wet. We also saw some pretty butterflies before huffing it back up the canyon wall, happy that the afternoon had cleared up.
The following morning, we passed a few more waterfalls, before visiting another big attraction, La Casa del Arbol (The Treehouse).
This site is famous for its swings that allow you to “fly” over the valley below. Mark and I only tried the “self-serve” swings, while others were pushed to extensive heights, twisted, and manipulated by a park employee – a nauseating experience for this gal, who’s super prone to motion sickness!
Laguna de Colta – Chimborazo
Mark and I felt the pressure of time, so headed south with one more desire regarding this middle section of Ecuador: witness the snowy top of Volcano Chimborazo. Driving through the big city of Riobamba (appropriately dubbed Friobamba because of its relatively high elevation and cool climate), we could only see clouds above the base of the volcano. The oldest church of Ecuador was located along our route, so we added another, quick stop on a long day.
We allowed ourselves one night of being camped within viewing range of this mountain and lucked out. Around dusk and early morning the next day, we happily gazed at the volcano in its full glory.
What’s special about Chimborazo is that, despite not being the highest mountain in the world (that claim goes to Mt. Everest), it is actually the closest one to the sun, and therefore the furthest from the earth’s center. Why? Because Chimborazo is positioned near the equator, so the curvature of the globe pushes it up a bit. 😊
Here is a photo of my Canadian-French friend Marie, who climbed to the top of Chimborazo earlier this year. Crazy and incredible at the same time!!!
Marie on the top of Chimborazo at sunrise (Photo credit Marie Fraisse)
(If you are interested in how much everything costs on this South American journey, keep an eye on my upcoming expense reports.)
Curious about a previous ten-year chapter in our nomadic lives, which includes eight years aboard a 35-foot sailboat in the tropics with dogs, check out my compelling, inspiring, and refreshingly honest travel memoir:
August 4, 2023 at 21:19
Hi, Liesbet – I hope that you will turn these adventures into a second book. They make an incredibly fascinating read. I eagerly await more!
August 4, 2023 at 22:22
Hi Donna,
That second book might happen one day. After these years of South American travels come to an end and I find time to focus on writing fulltime again. 🙂 We will see…
August 4, 2023 at 21:28
You’re finally in the part of Ecuador that I visited! Cotopaxi was a fun climb, but we never saw the top from afar or while hiking. 🙁 Lucky you! Quilotoa was my favorite place, I think. I do not remember anything about stray dogs on that road! Maybe we went a different way, and I know we walked back to our lodging on a trail, so for sure we did not see sad, stray dogs there. Now that I’m typing this, I DO remember being scared to death by some dogs on another hike; they were so fiercely protective of their property!
Chimborazo looks so pretty, and I love the fun fact about the proximity to the sun. Are you now out of Ecuador? Great job cramming in all that stuff before it was time to leave.
August 4, 2023 at 22:27
Hi Lexie,
Those views of Cotopaxi are probably my favorite sights of Ecuador after exploring the country for three months. Yes, we left a few days ago and are now in Northern Peru. The sidebar of my website usually has our current location. Well, current country anyway. I can’t update it fast enough based on our unreliable internet availability.
Quilotoa was another favorite site, so I do think you focused on the best part of Ecuador when you were here. Maybe the stray dogs were not a problem yet? There is only one road to the town. When not realizing this issue, you might have seen some of the dogs and thought they were “normal strays” or lived in the area. Either way, I’m glad you didn’t witness this scene.
As for aggressive and protective dogs, we have encountered plenty of those as well, especially when walking Maya.
August 4, 2023 at 21:55
The most heartbreaking shots were of the abandoned dogs on the highway. I don’t know how anyone could do that to an animal.
August 4, 2023 at 22:31
Hi Pete,
I agree. Dogs are treated differently here by most locals. Colombia was a nice change to that, where dogs really are pets. Of course, there are better areas and worse ones. The more touristy towns usually have better-looking dogs. The indigenous communities have been the worst so far.
To be honest, having to witness skinny, hungry, sick, and unhappy dogs has been the biggest drawback of our travels. Today, when having an unhealthy dog walk with us through town, I even wondered if witnessing these situations would make me abandon my travels one day. 🙁
August 4, 2023 at 23:21
I just can’t get over these dogs. It made me so sad. I do want to wish you though a Happy Anniversary!
August 5, 2023 at 17:59
Hi Margie,
When we drove up the “dog road”, we noticed hundreds of them in the ditch and alongside. Some looked skinny and others were better off.
This was not the “normal” scene of a few here and there. Later, we found out why they were here and also that Ecuadorians visiting Quilotoa know about the phenomenon of people dumping their dogs here. This leads to two results: some locals take food up the road with them and give it to the dogs (we never saw this happen) and it’s now a known place to get rid of your dog and possibly think they’ll get fed here (we didn’t see that happen either).
August 5, 2023 at 21:26
How sad (and strange phenomena).
August 4, 2023 at 23:54
Wow, Liesbet, you sure packed a lot into this post! That volcano is gorgeous. How lucky you were to get such a beautiful day to take pictures of it and get up close and personal.
Those poor, abandoned dogs are heartbreaking. I imagine it was hard for you to pass them by.
August 5, 2023 at 18:03
Hi Janis,
I’m trying to wrap up my Ecuador posts, which now each cover about two weeks of experiences. 🙂
Yes, we got lucky seeing Cotopaxi. We know of other overlanders who spent six days here, in the cold, before they got a glimpse of the majestic mountain. It has been very rare for us, the last nine months, to see blue skies like these!
Some of the dogs along this super long road looked okay, all things considered. But the fact that people drop them off here and that they might not find food is devastating. And that there are so many (and only multiplying, of course) is super heartbreaking. I made Mark promise me that if we were ever to live in Ecuador as expats, we’d come and “shop” here to pick out two dogs and take them home.
August 5, 2023 at 01:02
I really enjoyed this post, since I have never been to Equador it was great to travel vicariously. The volcano is incredible, sounds like you lucked out to see it fully and particularly its top.
The altitude is hard, I remember struggling with it when we did some hiking at high altitude in Peru.
I am looking forward to following along with your travels in Peru. Safe travels 😀
August 5, 2023 at 18:09
Hi Gilda!
I’m glad you enjoyed this Ecuador post. And I hope you and Brain get to visit one day. I can come up with a highlights itinerary for you. 🙂 Those photos of Cotopaxi are my favorites of our entire three months in this country.
It is possible to get used to the altitude a bit – I was extremely surprised I didn’t have a headache at the 15,000ft parking lot and even considered trying to hike higher – but then, when spending time at lower elevations again (just like with getting used to sea sickness and then being anchored in calm harbors), it all resets!
Today, we hiked at 8,500ft (low by our standards now) but it was relatively tough, because we’d spent a week at less than 5,000ft. And, there was a 1,000ft elevation gain down and back up a steep canyon over 1.5 miles of distance.
August 5, 2023 at 01:04
Great seeing so much more of Ecuador through your eyes than we were able to or chose to see, Liesbet. I just have to remind myself that we can never see everything and have to leave some places for a return trip if we’re lucky enough to go back.
Happy that you were rewarded with great views of Cotopaxi and stunning waterfalls on your hikes. Looking forward to reading about your Peru travels!
August 5, 2023 at 18:13
Hi Annie,
You are right, we can’t do everything we want to do when visiting countries and areas. Mark and I missed out on a lot in Ecuador and mainly stuck to the sites along the PanAmerican Highway, which is not usually our approach.
If we would have had more time (and criminality reports would have been more favorable), we would have loved to check out the coast and Amazonia. Both came recommended, but the detours were just too extensive to fit into our plans. Mark left for three weeks as well, so that took precious time away from our stay.
Peru so far hasn’t been great, but we count on improvements! 🙂
August 5, 2023 at 08:04
I didn’t realize you had a limited amount of time before your visas expired and you had to leave. Glad you were able to see the Cotopaxi volcano. I know how you feel because we spent 7 days waiting for the moment we could see Denali in Alaska. We were fortunate to have a 2 hour window on our last day to finally see it. Love your photos of the mountain. The dogs you saw on Quilotoa is the main reason Carmen is afraid to travel in Mexico. She thinks she will have to stop for every stray dog and our trailer would ultimately be filled with dogs. Crater lake is beautiful. Love the photo in front of the large heart. ❤️ Wow, Baños is beautiful. You JUMPED off the bridge?! Liesbet, you are NUTS!!!! Just watching the video gave me the chills. Damn!
August 5, 2023 at 18:22
Hi Jim,
Every country down here has a maximum amount of time you are allowed to stay as a tourist. Sometimes, like in Colombia and Ecuador, those three months can be extended by paying a fee and figuring out the paperwork.
For Colombia, the cost was around $20 each and well worth it, so we dealt with the hassles and stayed six months. For Ecuador, this fee was $160 a person and – to us – not worth it. We would have happily spend another month in the country, though, or for me to get the time back that Mark left for (three weeks), which he still has now for Ecuador.
We heard that extensions are not allowed anymore in Peru and we only received three months at the border (hoping for and requesting six). This is a huge country with many sights, so we hope we are able to do a “border run” at some point to get another three months. We will see.
I remember your patience to see Denali and how you lucked out on your last day in the area, at a viewpoint. Happy for you two!!
Yeah, the strays are difficult to digest, even in Mexico. To be honest, I find that the hardest part about traveling in less developed countries. And the trash. I can see how this would affect Carmen. You really have to try to ignore those poor pups and tell your own just how lucky she (Maya) or he (Pico) is! And then you give them extra cuddles and try to make up for the lack of love the other dogs receive.
Regarding the jump – I might be getting too old for that. I didn’t realize the rope didn’t give much when I got jerked back up. My body wasn’t happy for a few days afterwards! But I do believe it’s still healthy for us to get out of our comfort zones and do something crazy still, once in a while. 🙂
August 5, 2023 at 08:10
Liesbet, as much as I wanted to scroll ahead and see all your beautiful photographs, I couldn’t because your writing is so captivating in this post. From volcanos, stunning waterfalls, an art gallery, meeting new friends, and a bridge jump of all things! Such a variety of wonderful experiences. Now that, is what it’s all about.
August 5, 2023 at 18:24
Hi Suzanne,
I’m glad you liked this post – photos and text! You are so right: life is about experiences and this set has been diverse. I have to admit, though, that it’s important for us to just sit for a few days in one spot, once in a while. Especially since we have more on our plate than just sightseeing and driving these years. 🙂
August 5, 2023 at 09:59
It is amazing you two found each other, with this lust for life and travel. Just amazing pictures.
August 5, 2023 at 18:27
Hi Jacqui,
I know we probably take it for granted, but it is incredibly important, fortunate, and awesome that Mark and I want the same things in life – and even on this South American adventure.
We had some conflict a couple of months ago about how much time I want/like/need to spend online, while he would rather be active outdoors or rest. But now that he has found a steady job, we both need to spend more time online. Of course this means we have to find decent internet pretty much every day and need to plan around that too.
August 5, 2023 at 15:06
You are giving me a glimpse of sights and sounds I’ll probably never experience. Thank you, Liesbet.
Even though the experience must have turned out okay, my heart was in my throat during the dive!
August 5, 2023 at 18:29
Hi Marian,
Thanks for watching me jump off a bridge! 🙂
It was an interesting experience and – to be honest – one that my body wasn’t too happy with afterwards. Mentally, it was all great, though. But it was yet another activity that made me nauseous (in addition to driving windy mountain roads and swinging at different locations).
August 5, 2023 at 16:09
Wow, what spectacular scenery! I was gasping for breath in sympathy, thinking of you trying to hike at those crazy altitudes.
And speaking of crazy… bridge diving!?! Yikes! It looks like it would have been a blast, but I’m not sure I’d be brave enough to try it. 🙂
August 5, 2023 at 18:33
Hi Diane,
I’m expanding my horizons, even at almost 50, haha.
The bridge diving was less of a blast I thought and than bungee jumping. The free fall was over way too fast and way too jerky as the rope didn’t give much. And, the swinging made me nauseous. Just like every new activity that I try, apparently (like the swinging over the valley and the paragliding). Sigh.
I might have to stop the craziness, so my nausea is restricted to motion sickness when driving the windy mountain roads, hiking at high elevations, and getting migraines.
August 5, 2023 at 17:46
Beautiful scenery, especially Cotopaxi. I could not bring myself to jump off that bridge however securely I was held. No, no, no!
August 5, 2023 at 18:36
Hi Anabel,
Mark couldn’t even watch others dive off the bridge and got queasy from just looking down the gorge from above. It was a deep canyon and the bridge shook whenever a big vehicle drove over it.
I tried to not put much thought into the decision of going for it. My mind was doing fine, yet, when I stared down to my feet before jumping, my legs were shaking. That was an interesting discovery. My body knew this was not a good idea! 🙂
August 5, 2023 at 18:07
Sorry, not diving off any bridge.
The mountain is spectacular.
And it would be so hard to see all of those homeless dogs.
August 5, 2023 at 18:38
Hi Alex,
Cotopaxi was one of my highlights this year, for sure. And, on the flip side, spotting so many homeless dogs one of the lowlights.
I don’t think I ever thanked you officially for putting Lynn from La Vita and me in touch. We have become friends and writing partners, thanks to you. My gratitude!
August 6, 2023 at 11:35
This post was just epic! Enjoyed every bit, and the photos! Such beauty! Good job on the jump, too! Book Club meets tomorrow and I’ll sure be sharing this part of your adventure with the ladies! Thank You!
August 9, 2023 at 21:59
Hi Carol!
I’m glad you enjoyed this Ecuador post and that you are still following along and sharing our stories with your fellow Book Club members. I hope you all can live and travel vicariously in South America with me. 🙂
August 6, 2023 at 17:07
I love your last tidbit about Mt Chimborazo being closest to the sun, Liesbet! You guys hiked at a very high elevation! It was heartbreaking to see the homeless dogs along the highway. We saw a lot of that in Baja. Your shot of Cotopaxi was worth the wait. What happens when your visa expires…can you renew or do you need to leave?
August 9, 2023 at 22:06
Hi Terri,
Every country in South America seems to be a mix of sadness and beauty, good and bad, and positives and negatives so far. 🙂 I guess it’s a reflection of life. I’m glad you enjoyed the photos.
In some countries, like Colombia and Ecuador, you can renew the three-month visa once. We did this in Colombia for $20 and decided to not do it in Ecuador ($160 per person), which meant we had to leave. We made sure to have a few days left of our “allowance” in case we want to return within a year and buy that extension after all.
In Peru extensions are not possible. For some countries just crossing the border and returning the same day or later, resets the maximum amount a visitor can stay, like in Chili and Argentina.
August 7, 2023 at 23:19
Wow! What an education. This stuff needs to be in a book in a few years from now. Just keep taking the pictures! Those waterfalls are incredible. And that looked like a scary jump in Banos. Now doesn’t that mean bathroom? Lol. Keep on enjoying the dolce vita my friend! 🙂 xx
August 9, 2023 at 22:09
Hi Debby,
Banos, indeed, means bathroom. The full name of Baños is Baños de Agua Santa. Mark kept thinking about bathrooms every time he saw the name of the city spelled somewhere and I keep thinking about the town each time I now see the sign baños for toilets.
Yes, I’ll keep taking photos (way too many) and writing diaries! 🙂
August 10, 2023 at 09:48
That’s such an interesting name. And maybe seeing those signs everywhere may stimulate the bladder, lol. P.S. are you still in Ecuador? I saw the news where a presidential candidate was assassinated yesterday. You guys keep safe!!! <3
August 12, 2023 at 15:23
Hi Debby,
We left Ecuador about two weeks ago. Sad about the presidential candidate. Not a good time to travel in that country the coming months as new elections will take place… We have a few friends who hopefully can travel there and make it through okay. Unfortunately, we were “feeling” a negative change there during the last two months of our stay.
August 13, 2023 at 11:53
So sad, the world is closing in everywhere it seems. I’m glad you got to see it and have left. Stay safe. 🙂 x
August 14, 2023 at 21:16
Thanks, Debby. We feel we traveled through Ecuador at the right time. Some of these South American countries are still unstable. I didn’t quite realize that before we arrived. Mark says he did. I know Africa is like this, but I guess it’s not the only continent with instability and insecurity.
August 15, 2023 at 10:01
How true Liesbet. I’m glad you’ve left Ecuador now. Looks like some big political problems are in fruition there too. Stay safe! <3
August 18, 2023 at 12:27
Thank you, my friend.
August 8, 2023 at 09:33
Are you crazy? You jumped off a bridge? You have more adventure in you than I do. Just looking over that bridge would have had me heaving.
So sad about the abandoned dogs. I just do not understand how any human could be so cruel to an animal. I’d want to collect them all and give them a loving home. It must be so unsafe for them being left on a highway.
So pleased you got a great view of that volcano on your last morning. What an incredible sight.
August 9, 2023 at 22:29
Hi Hugh,
Sometimes I am a little bit crazy. At least that’s what some people think. I call myself completely sane, but a tad adventurous and sometimes that means trying new things and expanding my horizons. 🙂 Of course, my aging body didn’t quite agree with that jump/dive! Mark had a hard time looking down into that canyon from this high bridge that shuttered each time a heavy vehicle drove on it.
There are so many stray dogs in these countries it would be impossible to save them all. It’s a heart-breaking reality that really bothers me. I’d easily say that this part of our travels is the hardest!
August 9, 2023 at 16:33
There is so much fun packed into this post. But I think I like the idea of stalking volcanos best of all! What amazing pics. Your patience paid off.
I love the lagoon and your new paintings of the volcano and lagoon!
Too bad you didn’t have more time in Ecuador. You make me want to visit. Oh, yeah! I’ll be there in less than 2 months!
August 9, 2023 at 22:32
Hi Duwan,
Mark and I were so excited to wake up to that view of Cotopaxi. It was similar to the volcano we spotted in Colombia (Nevado del Ruiz) earlier this year. We knew from experience that the early bird catches the worm in these cases. Usually, by 9am, the tall peaks have disappeared again.
You will enjoy Cuenca, but I preferred Vilcabamba. We would have loved to have one extra month in Ecuador to check out the beach and the Amazon, but were not willing to pay $160 each for that.