We had heard good things about it – hot springs, hiking, off the beaten track. We had seen the green blot on maps – including the words “cliff dwellings” in small print. We’d driven south of it multiple times, crossing the country, not having time for a detour, thinking it would take ages on dirt roads to get there.
Gila National Forest
Until this fall. When we left Massachusetts in our new set-up, Mark wanted to stop in the Badlands of South Dakota and I was finally going to find Gila National Forest’s treasures in New Mexico. We made it happen in early November of this year. Unfortunately, we only had three nights to spare in this expansive area. Fortunately, we have the means to return.
(As always, hover over or click on the photos in galleries to read their captions.)
In true Liesbet and Mark fashion, we had no idea what to expect. There were the recommendations of friends and the attraction of the map, but that was the extent of our knowledge about Gila. We didn’t research and we didn’t look at photos ahead of time. This way, we are open-minded and malleable. It allows for genuine surprises and discovering new-to-us treasures. It avoids expectations and disappointments.
Welcome to New Mexico!
Cebolla Mesa
When we entered New Mexico, right across the border from Colorado, we stopped at a remote but free campground on Cebolla Mesa for a couple of nights. To our shock, we found ourselves on the edge of a deep canyon, carved out by the Rio Grande. Mark and Maya braved the steep 2.6 mile R/T descend and ascent (770ft elevation gain). I turned back after a few switchbacks, fearing a massive headache from the exertion.
Black Rock Hot Springs
Another small detour brought us to the Black Rock Hot Springs, also along the Rio Grande. These natural pools are free but popular. We had them to ourselves for all but one minute. I unsuspectingly was in the middle of changing into my bathing suit when other tourists hiked down the path. Mark and I have been spoiled with solitude.
After quick stops in Santa Fe (to visit a couple we previously house sat for) and Albuquerque (to fix our camper platform for the second time), we finally made it to Gila National Forest. The road leading to the highlights of the park is slow, but – to my surprise – completely paved. We found ourselves in the mountains at a relatively high elevation (6,000ft). Also a surprise.
Gila NF Camping
The free campground we had picked in iOverlander had plenty of open sites, but only two that would fit us – the others required passing under low tree branches. The spot we selected was spacious, sunny enough for the solar panels, and along a brook with a little rapid to soothe our ears.
Gila NF cliff dwellings
After a quick briefing by a ranger at the beginning of the one-mile trail in this national monument, we were sent on our way, along a boardwalk, path, and many steps up towards the cliff.
There they were! Quite the discovery.
Not as impressive or extensive as Mesa Verde National Park, but these ones are relatively unknown, not overrun, free, and – the best thing – allow visitors to explore the rooms without booking a tour!
For thousands of years, different nomadic groups sheltered in these caves, but it was the Mongollon Pueblo peoples who modified and inhabited the dwellings for a few decades. Archaeologists have identified 46 rooms in the five caves along Cliff Dweller Canyon, and believe they were occupied by 10 to 15 families. Let’s hope visitors remain respectful of this site and continue to preserve these 700-year-old structures.
Gila NF river hike
The area around the Gila Visitor Center teems with trails, hot springs, and artifacts. When we stopped to gather maps and info, after visiting the cliff dwellings, it was too late in the day to embark on an epic hike, so we checked out natural hot springs nearby – way too hot and shallow to enjoy – and took it easy at our lovely campsite.
On our second – and last – full day, we parked at the TJ Corral trailhead around 9am and set out on an 11-mile hike called Little Bear Canyon/Middle Fork Loop. This trail sports 36 river crossings, all along the last half of the trail. This meant getting our feet wet! It actually ended up being a fun activity, especially for Maya. Mark was a tad uncomfortable in his submerged and sloshing hiking shoes, but my close-toed Teva sandals were the perfect footwear for this endeavor.
We followed the ridge of a hill, traversed a slot canyon, gawked at impressive rock formations, and contemplated a three-mile side-trip to Jordan Falls – a quintessential and super attractive soaking pool and campsite among superb scenery.
Mark was the smart one – as usual. Just when I was about to get my feet wet for the first time in an attempt to add another 15 X 2 river crossings to our itinerary, Mark did the math. With the sun setting early (we had just lost another hour due to the end of daylight savings) and the slot canyon turning dark even quicker, we stuck to plan. I moped for a few minutes and then, we braced ourselves for our initial 36 river crossings!
Luckily, the daytime temperature was unusually warm for the time of year and a hot shower awaited in Temp. Unluckily, I forgot to switch my camera back to sunlight mode after turning the setting into the “shade” position, leading to not the greatest photos of the rock formations.
The three of us would have loved to stay longer, but we were meeting a friend in Benson, Arizona. We’d pushed out that date already a couple of times. Plus, there is no cell service/internet in the forest.
Silver City
Leaving this extensive, activity-rich area to the south, we passed through Silver City. “Wasn’t this on our list of potential places to live?” Mark asked. I checked my notebook; he remembered correctly… Over a year ago (remember my blog post about Bisbee, AZ?), he and I researched which towns in the US have perfect weather (summer and winter) for our warm-blooded bodies.
Ha! Well, none do, apart maybe from San Diego, which we could not in a million years afford or regions in Florida, where we never want to live. But our “try-out list” did contain a few mountain towns with a great vibe, affordable housing (back then), and relatively decent weather. So, we walked Maya around Silver City for an hour or so and marked it off our list. Bisbee might still be a contender, but at this point, we have pretty much decided that if we ever buy a little home, it will be abroad.
Have you ever heard of – or visited – Gila National Forest in New Mexico? Any other place I mention here?
Linked up with Natalie’s 50th Weekend Coffee Share. You can find her contribution of this week here.
December 16, 2021 at 01:36
I used to live in South Dakota so I’ve been to the Badlands many times, but I would love to see the cliff dwellings of New Mexico. It speaks to the ingenuity of the Native Americans that they found a way to work with nature to create a livable environment.
December 16, 2021 at 21:30
Hi Pete!
I remember you mentioning living in South Dakota – such an intriguing state with many attraction highlights. These Gila cliffs dwellings are not well known and the Native Americans only lived in them for a very short time – not even one full generation. It is amazing that they could live in this harsh environment and managed to build a life for themselves in the caves.
December 16, 2021 at 02:18
Lovely places to camp and hike, thank you for the photos.
December 16, 2021 at 21:31
Hi Rosie. I’m glad you enjoyed the virtual tour!
December 16, 2021 at 03:46
I have never heard of Gila. Impressive landscapes and cave dwellings. Love the idea of the hot springs, being able to enjoy nature around you whilst floating in a warm bath. I remember enjoying this type of experience in Iceland.
December 16, 2021 at 21:33
Hi Gilda! We love these little off-the-beaten-track discoveries. It’s not so easy to visit, despite the paved roads, so I think Gila NF will remain a tad “hidden.” I have yet to experience hot springs in Iceland (so far, I’ve only seen the steam from the plane), but it is on the mental list! I do think the experiences up north are more unique and mind-blowing, though.
December 16, 2021 at 04:38
In cold, damp NW England, those sunny scenes look so appealing!
December 16, 2021 at 21:34
You guys need to get that beast ready and head south!! Sending you some sun rays. It’s freezing in Phoenix tonight! Brrrr…
December 16, 2021 at 04:41
We visited in the area in 2005 and camped in Silver City for a week. I am so glad one can still walk into the cliff dwellings and 16 years later they don’t seem to show any damage from tourists. For such a small town, we liked Silver City, were surprised by several excellent restaurants and a theater, we suppose all products of the fact Western New Mexico University is located there. Living in D.C. at the time, I was told it was a favorite retirement spot for people from the C.I.A. but I have no idea if that was true.
December 16, 2021 at 21:37
Thank you for sharing your memories and experiences of this area! I can’t believe that 2005 really has been that long ago. Sigh! But, yes, history is being preserved at the dwellings, thank goodness.
We probably didn’t spend enough time in Silver City to do it justice. I noticed the theater but had no idea a university is located there. How interesting about the CIA. We might have to investigate! 🙂
December 16, 2021 at 05:26
Wow, what a find! Good exploring guys.
December 16, 2021 at 21:38
Thanks, Leslie! Add it to your list if and when you head west in HaRVy again. 🙂 The only dirt roads were to enter the free campgrounds.
December 16, 2021 at 09:53
Hot springs, Hiking and Hidden make a perfect reciepe.
Hooray for Teva sandals! (Mine have done two full Caminos with me and have always come through).
I haven’t been to NM but it is on my list!
December 16, 2021 at 21:40
Oooh, I love your triple H comment, Donna! And, I love my sandals! I once had Keens, but they gave me a blister, unfortunately. These ones are awesome! Let me know if you ever visit New Mexico. It’s an undervalued state when it comes to tourist attractions.
December 16, 2021 at 10:01
I love how strong you are to do what you do outdoors. I pant after 30 minutes on my Treadmill! I love that Maia is the center of every activity.
December 16, 2021 at 21:45
Hi Jacqui!
My outdoor activities are hit or miss. Mark is a hiker and he walks fast. I always huff and puff behind him and often end up with a killer migraine by the time we return home, followed by hours in bed. Not fun!
Half an hour on the treadmill is respectable! Do you walk or run? I couldn’t do the running. Now that we are camped in an RV park with a gym, I’m trying to bike indoors for half an hour every evening. We will see how that goes. The room closes at 9pm, unfortunately, so I’m on my way there soon, followed by a shower. Then, an ice cold walk back to Temp to work, as it’s freezing in Phoenix!
Yes, Maya is the center of our lives. Except at the gym.
December 16, 2021 at 12:28
Thanks for this! The cliff dwellings look amazing!
December 16, 2021 at 21:46
They are pretty cool. You two should add it to one of your itineraries when heading west again…
December 16, 2021 at 13:12
Thanks for giving me a glimpse into a part of New Mexico I’m not familiar with. You, Mark, and Maya are all IN!
December 16, 2021 at 21:47
Hi Marian! I’m so glad we have these memories to go by these days, as December is far less fun and interesting. But more about that another time. I hope it’s warmer in northern Florida than in Phoenix right now. Time to turn the heater on in Temp! 🙂 Have a great weekend, my friend.
December 16, 2021 at 14:06
Glad you’re enjoying the southwest. It’s our favorite part of the US along with Yosemite, Yellowstone and the Tetons. Stay safe.
Steve
December 16, 2021 at 21:48
That’s a lot of US favorites, Steve! 🙂 But I hear you. We love it here as well. It was so nice to return to the desert southwest after a long spring and summer in MA. Happy travels and safe journeys to you both as well! And Merry Christmas!
December 16, 2021 at 15:50
Some great areas to add to your road trip, Liesbet! So much of North America to see and experience. I would love to visit Santa Fe (our family rented an AirB&B last fall and loved the area. Those rock formations and the area around Cliff Dweller Canyon look wonderful (and few tourists!). Happy Trails as you continue onward!
December 16, 2021 at 21:52
Terri, I am the happiest when I can discover new places and immerse myself in nature. Gila NF delivered. But, these places and times seem to be far and few between. Once we leave North America, true adventures will be had again. I’m so looking forward to that. Much more preparing (and even planning) has to happen first.
We really like Santa Fe as well, but are not the people who revisited areas often. We once did a month-long house sit near there and enjoyed our trips on to the old town a lot.
Thanks for the wishes. We’re stationary for now, but in January, we will forge ahead again.
December 17, 2021 at 07:26
I so enjoyed joining you for these hikes and excursions. No, I sadly never heard of Gila, and you have made me want to visit. I think my guy and I need a road trip next November – sounds like the timing was good for you weather-wise. And I agree with you, I like a little of planning to go somewhere, but not so much that I have expectations that could be dashed. It’s a balance. The photo of you three (and the background setting) are delightful. 🙂
We were in Yosemite this past early November and the weather was perfect AND the crowds were gone. November might be a good time throughout the country.
Lastly, I have a friend (your age, lives in FL) who is working on a memoir. I bought and mailed her your book PLUNGE as a great example of a memoir. <3
December 18, 2021 at 16:50
November can be chilly in California, Arizona, and New Mexico, but I think this year was seasonably warm. It sure looked like you enjoyed Yosemite. I do think November is a good time for a road trip out west, for the reasons you mention, Pam.
Everything in life seems to need a balance – including planning versus being impulsive. It’s a work in progress for me, haha.
Thank you so much for buying another Plunge! And for sending it as a gift to an aspiring memoir writer. That was so kind of you and I’m humbled by your words about my book being a good example of memoir. Wow! Talk about a compliment for a non-native English speaker who never took any literature or writing classes. 🙂 You are too lovely, my friend!!
December 19, 2021 at 08:15
<3
December 19, 2021 at 08:17
Sending you a huge heart of gratefulness for knowing you, meeting you and Mark and Maya, and following you as you follow your heart.
December 19, 2021 at 21:16
Beautiful words that will pull me through the awful times we are currently having. It’s hard to follow your heart when it’s being thrown off by life’s punches. But, we will recover, move on, and survive.
December 21, 2021 at 10:06
Yes. xo
December 17, 2021 at 10:03
I love that river-crossing hike! I have heard of Gila National Forest but knew very little about it – thanks for the heads-up on a new idea for future trips!
December 18, 2021 at 16:53
I had a feeling you’d love that hike! It was the right length and elevation gain for me, but might not be strenuous enough for you, Lexie! I think the southern part of New Mexico has a lot of treasures and would make a fantastic one-week road trip from Houston! 🙂
December 17, 2021 at 10:09
Liesbet, this is not likely a part of the country I will ever see, so thanks for sharing. You lost me at hard to get to…I’m glad you guys enjoyed the experience.
December 18, 2021 at 16:54
The beauty of following travel blogs is that you can make certain trips virtually, Suzanne. New Mexico is a tad far from Florida, but it happened to be along our way to Baja California. I really enjoy stopping at new places, even though we have crossed this country heaps of times.
December 17, 2021 at 11:10
Hi Lisebet! Nice to see some of your current adventures. We’ve driven through parts of Gila but not done those cliff dwellings (did the ones at Mesa Verde). But we have friends in Silver City and did like the town because of the arts and culture there but imagine it has gotten pretty expensive in the last 5-10 years like so much property in the southwest. New Mexico does have some beautiful and unique places but not somewhere we’ve considered living. Right now Mexico is near the top of our list! ~Kathy
December 19, 2021 at 02:05
Hello Kathy!
It is so good to hear from you. I hope you are doing alright. Thank you for taking the time to read and comment (while recovering) on your vacation in Mexico.
Mesa Verde was much more spectacular than these “underdog” dwellings. If you’re ever visiting your friends in Silver City, it might be a nice day trip to hike in the forest, to the caves, or through the river. I’m not sure if there is any accommodation for longer visits, though, other than campgrounds…
I can see why Mexico is high on your “to live” list. It is on ours as well. But, we still don’t have an urge to commit. 🙂
December 17, 2021 at 15:06
We have friends who spent a season volunteering at the cliff dwellings and loved the experience. they certainly are one-of-a-kind and surrounded by beautiful scenery. I second your thoughts on Tevas. I have tried other hiking sandals and found nothing as reliable, or comfortable. They provide a lot of confidence when hiking on slippery surfaces. Finally, I think you’re right about San Diego – it’s the only place that has year round great weather and is also a place no one can afford to live. 🙁
December 19, 2021 at 02:08
Now it’s my turn to agree with everything you write, Laura. We have enjoyed house and pet sitting in San Diego before and have a few friends who live there, but that is – and will be – our extent of expertise and experience in that lovely city. I think we have to head south, and quite a bit, to find perfect weather and inexpensive living! 🙂
December 18, 2021 at 12:19
Hi Liesbet.
Your adventures remind me of several of my own. I too like going somewhere with minimal planning to just let the place tell its own story. But I’ve also arrived at a place completely unprepared for what would have been wise to be ready to take advantage of what the place had to offer. One time, I honestly forgot to pack food for a multi-day visit. That was just plain stupid of me.
Once again I enjoy seeing your trip through your eyes and lens.
December 19, 2021 at 02:13
Hi Gary!
Thanks for coming along for the (virtual) ride!
You are correct about that balance between preparing and not. It’s a mixed bag. For example, as I’ve gotten older (and lazier), I like arriving in a city and then just roaming about and exploring the sights as they show them to us. The flipside is that this place might have some attractions that nobody should miss and without reading up about them, we would (and most certainly have) miss them! So, I hear what you say.
Forgetting food, though, that is an interesting twist! The first thing I always think about is food – and we are used to packing and bringing our own everywhere. I hope you managed to purchase meals wherever your trip took place!
December 18, 2021 at 14:11
We have heard of Gila but not been there. We love New Mexico. So scenic. We would like to return and experience the International Hot Air Balloon Fiesta.
Enjoy and happy holidays!
December 19, 2021 at 02:16
I’m not surprised that you love New Mexico as well. Close to Texas too for when you “hop” across borders for a visit. 🙂 While we have been to Albuquerque a few times (house and pet sitting), we never experienced the Hot Air Balloon Fiesta. But, living there on the mesa for the time being, those colorful balloons were a daily, early morning sight. Happy holidays to you both – and the pups – as well!!!
December 18, 2021 at 18:46
Liesbet, Thank you for the tour and for linking up with #weekendcoffeeshare. The cliff dwellings and rock formations look amazing. I’d love to visit NM one day. Merry Christmas and happy New Year to you, Mark and Maya!
December 19, 2021 at 02:19
I think New Mexico is not well known outside of the US. It’s more like an “underdog” state, but if you know where to look, there are plenty of varied and amazing attractions and activities. I hope you will be able to experience some of them yourself one day, Natalie. Happy holidays to you as well – enjoy your blogging break and time with family!
December 18, 2021 at 20:43
No, I have never been to this region and most likely never will, so it has been especially nice to see it through your eyes, Liesbet! Those cliffs and caverns look quite a place to shelter, 700 years ago and came up well in the photos.
I didn’t realize that you were hunting for a place to settle down, eventually. You mentioned abroad, have you any on your shortlist?
December 19, 2021 at 02:24
Haha, “hunting” for a place to settle down is a strong sentiment, Amanda! Let’s say we are gingerly keeping an eye out for a place that might become our base. I have happily been a nomad for eighteen years and still don’t see the need for a change. My husband, who is five years older, would be pleased with a little unmoving structure to call “home.” 🙂
Nothing on the shortlist yet, but we did come close to buying a casita on the Baja peninsula in Mexico last spring. It would have come in handy during these extended pandemic times and our difficulty of changing RV gears this past year. But, now we are 100% focused on traveling in South America, so who knows? Maybe we find an attractive expat community there…
December 19, 2021 at 13:23
That is so very beautiful. Very nice. #weekendcoffeeshare
December 19, 2021 at 21:17
Thank you for visiting and commenting and liking! 🙂
December 19, 2021 at 14:04
Wow, what spectacular scenery! And it’s a treat to see photos of you in shorts and bathing suits splashing happily in water while we’re surrounded by snow. Happy travels! 🙂
December 19, 2021 at 21:18
Yikes. Snow!? 🙂 The times of shorts have passed for now – and bathing suits in hot springs too. But, hopefully not for long. Happy holidays, Diane!!!
December 21, 2021 at 13:17
Thanks – happy holidays to you, too! 🙂
December 23, 2021 at 13:38
Merci beaucoup!! xx
December 19, 2021 at 16:24
One line from your post here reminded me of something, so I thought I’d share…
December 19, 2021 at 21:18
No way!? Who would have thunk? A song about Benson!! Thanks for sharing and brightening my mood.
December 20, 2021 at 06:07
Glad to have brought a smile to your face 🙂
December 23, 2021 at 13:32
🙂 I needed it. We all need it right now!
December 19, 2021 at 17:53
Those pueblos are impressive. I’m surprised to learn that it’s free to explore. I hope I get to visit and if it’s not free…I’m don’t mind paying a fee to check it out :-P.
December 19, 2021 at 21:21
Some national monuments in this country are still free, which is a nice touch. You feel like it’s a great reward after making the long drive or the long climb. 🙂 Of course, we happily pay for national and historic treasures as well. When it’s not too expensive! 🙂 We usually have an annual national park pass when exploring the US, but things are all messed up now because of Covid and continued changes of plans.
December 19, 2021 at 23:19
Spectaculr views. This national parks deserves a visit by anybody who loves to be with the nature and to experience good things first hand!
December 20, 2021 at 01:49
Thank you for the visit and the comment. Yes! These natural treasures are the best.
December 20, 2021 at 23:55
I’ve never been to New Mexico, and your photos are fascinating! Thanks for sharing.
December 23, 2021 at 13:34
My pleasure, Deb. New Mexico has a lot to offer, but not many are in the know of that. 🙂
December 21, 2021 at 00:53
36 river crossings – woo hoo
December 23, 2021 at 13:35
Ready for wet feet? 🙂
December 21, 2021 at 10:10
Since I grew up in West Texas, part of my heart will always be in the American Southwest! Lovely storytelling and photos from the country of my home. We too have recently discovered the joys of road-tripping, and your blog is making us anxious to get out there again! Hope you two have a lovely Christmas.
– Susan
December 23, 2021 at 13:37
Thanks for the lovely wishes, Susan. It’ll be a quiet Christmas for us as we’ve had some struggles to deal with. We hope 2022 will be better for everyone, in terms of travel, behavior, and sanity!
We didn’t grow up in the American Southwest, but it is our favorite place to be in this country. That being said, we are dying to leave! Hopefully soon.
December 25, 2021 at 20:35
OK, so it took me a while to read this one because I’m starting to have travel envy. You know how it is when you are in a situation you didn’t think you’d be in and it seems like you will never get on the road again. Maybe in a months time I’ll be back out there. I hope!
We have been to the Gila Cliff Dwellings which we really enjoyed but didn’t stay to explore the forest because it’s pretty cold there in February. But perhaps we will have to return in warmer weather some time. New Mexico definitely needs to be explored more.
December 26, 2021 at 17:01
Hi Duwan!
Yes, you will be back out here in no time. And, yes, we’ve had multiple situations in recent times, where we felt stuck for a while without being able to do what we love best: travel. Right now, we are itching to hit the road again as well and finally leave this country.
We were lucky with the weather in Gila, this fall. Even people who hike there often said that it was twenty degrees cooler during the day, the year prior. So, it definitely depends on the time of year to have enjoyable explorations in the forest. We will see you soon in Baja!
December 28, 2021 at 13:08
We have visited the Badlands in South Dakota, but never went so far to New Mexico. The park looks so beautiful, all those rock formations are so inviting for an adventure, especially with so many rivers to cross🙂
Christie
December 28, 2021 at 22:56
We really enjoyed the Badlands in South Dakota as well earlier this year. That area and the Gila NF were our “fall favorites” of 2021! I hope you’ll be able to visit New Mexico one day. It easily has enough sites to keep one happy and entertained for a two-week road trip!