When Mark and I met Jon and Gail on a remote, gorgeous beach in Baja California, Mexico, this past spring, we hit it off immediately. Jon Crane is a renowned, accomplished, and outstanding painter and his lovely wife, Gail, had just published her book Mystic Travelers around the same time I released Plunge. The four of us had a lot to share – stories, food, drinks, and art.
The couple spends half a year on the Baja peninsula in their truck camper and the other six months in the Black Hills of South Dakota, where they built an incredible home based on Jon’s vision and skills. Ever since I read about their place in Mystic and saw a photo of their unique house in Gail’s book, I’ve wanted to visit. So, when we found ourselves in the Badlands, two hours east of the Black Hills, we got in touch with our friends. Would they still be home mid-October or had they already left for Baja?
We were in luck. Jon and Gail were still around for a couple of weeks and more than happy to see and host us. But there was one problem… They live in the middle of nowhere, deep into the black hills, and the first snowfall of the season had arrived when it rained in our neck of the woods. No worries. We’d amuse ourselves for a couple more days and assumed the snow would be melted when we ventured into the hills.
We stopped in Rapid City to do some shopping and say hi to a bunch of presidents.
(As always, hover over or click on images in galleries to read the captions.)
Then, we left civilization and were greeted by this. Yikes.
Mark and I are warm-blooded humans. We don’t do well in cold weather and we certainly didn’t plan on seeing any of that white stuff when driving across the country, except, maybe, if and when crossing the mountain passes in Colorado!
The road condition deteriorated the further we drove.
Jon met us at the trailhead in Mystic. Yes, the only way to reach their property in winter is by following the old railroad bed which is now a famous bike trail called the Mickelson Trail. It is 109 miles long and runs from Deadwood to Edgemont, SD, passing through Mystic, Hill City, and Jon and Gail’s property.
Jon and Gail got married in the chapel of Mystic.
And thus the adventure began…
Following Jon on the trail
Following Jon on the narrow George S. Mickelson Trail…
Through the forest
Brushing snow-laden pine trees….
Over the narrow trestle
Crossing a trestle (railroad bridge)…
Between the rocks
Slow and steady did the trick, Thirsty locked in 4WD mode.
Until we reached the driveway. Up to that point, we fit nicely in our friend’s tracks, but at the turn, we slipped and slid back down the hill. Since our wheelbase is longer than Jon’s jeep and TT is much heavier, we sank into the snow and didn’t get traction. After multiple attempts and spinning wheels, we eventually made it up the driveway and parked in front of the barn. We’d made it!
Jon and Gail welcomed us into their gorgeous home, where we shared multiple meals and good conversation, adored the interior and art, enjoyed their kitchen and laundry facilities, hot showers, and comfortable living room, and met some of their neighbors.
The three of us slept in our camper to give our friends’ cat, Cosmo (who wasn’t enamored with Maya), her own space. Entering and leaving our home on wheels was a slippery endeavor. Yet, the walks were pretty and Maya frolicked in the snow.
Back inside the house, the wood fire and the company of our friends warmed us up again.
It was lovely to share this Black Hills sanctuary with our generous friends who loaded us up with fresh garden vegetables before we left. We plan to meet Jon and Gail again this winter, on their favorite beach in Baja California, and hope to return to Mystic during the summer one year.
Before we left the area, we made a quick stop in Hill City, where the Jon Crane Gallery is located. Unfortunately, it was closed on Sundays. You can find Jon’s art on his website here as well. Or check out his Facebook page (with lots of cool travel photos) here. His detailed watercolors are something else!
We returned to the prairie at lower elevations, spotting more wildlife.
A quick stop at Cascade Falls near the town of Hot Springs preceded our last nights in South Dakota, which were spent at yet another great boondocking spot: Shep Canyon National Recreation Area.
And then, it was time to cross Nebraska, brave Colorado, and finally head south!
Happy Thanksgiving to all my American friends and family!!!
November 24, 2021 at 18:12
You are in my old stomping grounds. I spent nine years of my childhood in South Dakota and North Dakota. We were just in the Black Hills and Rapid City a few months ago. Happy Thanksgiving, Liesbet!
November 27, 2021 at 12:59
Hi Pete! I had no idea you used to be a Dakota local. I assume you still have family there, based on your recent visit? Such an amazing area. We didn’t stay long enough this time around and hope to return for two or three weeks one of these summers. If we don’t make it to South America by next summer, we plan on doing a little Northwest American tour with the Black Hills as the most eastern part. 🙂 Hope you had a lovely Thanksgiving!
November 24, 2021 at 18:14
I’m so happy that you had the opportunity to hook up with your friends again! Their house is beautiful (despite all that white stuff). I hope you get to go back in the summer so you can ride the rails-to-trials bike path. I have been on that one but the ones I have ridden were amazing! Any chance you’ll swing by SD on your way south?
November 27, 2021 at 13:04
Hi Janis!
It was quite ironic how we couldn’t use the bike path with our bikes when we were basically parked next to it. Hopefully, another time in summer. 🙂 We’ve barely used our e-bikes lately and are contemplating selling them.
At this point, SD is west of us (we are currently in Phoenix to work), so I doubt we will drive through on our way to Baja. I think we will cross in Los Algodones this time, in January. But, there’s a decent chance we will follow the west coast for one last hurrah before leaving the country next year. 🙂 I’ll keep you posted!
November 24, 2021 at 22:44
How lovely to meet kindred spirits, lovers of books, art, and full-throttle adventure. I remember as a young driver sliding backwards down a snowy hill. I was horrified landing broadside across the road. I yelled at my brother to run to the top of the hill, so an unsuspecting driver wouldn’t T-bone us. I too hate driving in snow.
I’d love a sample of those soft pretzels, Liesbet!
November 27, 2021 at 13:07
Wow, Marian. That sounds like a scary adventure in the snow. Good idea about letting your brother flag potential traffic down! It’s a slippery slope. 🙂
I have to admit that I actually have never driven in the snow. Apparently, it’s quite tricky, as Mark alerted me when he did these drives. I thought once you had 4WD, every driving experience was a breeze. Nope…
It had been a long time since we made these pretzels. On the boat, I believe. When we still had an oven! They are a lot of work, but we had the time, equipment, and people to spoil. 🙂
November 25, 2021 at 04:28
Such a beautiful and peaceful place. I am glad you have a 4WD to get up there. How lovely to spend time together with your friends in this idyllic setting.
November 27, 2021 at 13:09
It was nice, Gilda, despite the snow. I love blue skies and luckily, those were plentiful in the Black Hills and they are even more plentiful here in the desert southwest. 🙂 The 4WD has come in handy a few times now. We can go places we never could before. Apart from the other times I had a truck camper, haha.
November 25, 2021 at 11:07
That was amazing. What a gorgeous drive, fun trip, worth-the-trip house. I can see why they go elsewhere half the year but I also see the absolute beauty of that snow-laden world.
November 27, 2021 at 13:13
Hi Jacqui! I think Gail and Jon really enjoy the best of both worlds with their summer/winter locations. But, both pursuits are a lot of work when it comes to maintenance, stocking up, and fixing issues. I admire them for all they do, achieve, and take care of on top of their artsy careers.
November 25, 2021 at 11:20
Now that’s something we’ve never done – drive on a bike trail, especially in the snow. Good thing you weren’t in the Westy. That house does look pretty amazing. Do they really have neighbors out there?
November 27, 2021 at 13:17
Hi Leslie!
We would never have pursued this trip in the Westy. But, then again, we had no idea what was waiting for us. We’d have driven to Mystic, followed Jon for 1/25 mile, and then we’d have to tell him we couldn’t make it and turn around right there and then. Or, if we knew the conditions ahead of time, we’d have to wait until the snow melted enough to visit them. As we were all somewhat on a schedule, this wouldn’t have worked out.
I think there are about ten to twenty or so cottages in that particular valley. The neighbors are very close and only one couple lives there year-round at the moment.
November 25, 2021 at 12:21
Look at you three travelling through all of that snow! I am very impressed (I was positive that you did not do snow – ever)! 😀
Jon and Gail look like wonderful hosts.
If you have that pretzel recipe, I would love for you to share it!
November 27, 2021 at 13:20
Haha, Donna. We don’t do snow. Unless the snow brings us a surprise visit! In this case, when Jon emailed us there had been a bad snow storm, it was our ignorance about what that meant which had us pursue this visit. Life’s an adventure, right? 🙂 Jon and Gail are fabulous hosts and wonderful people and friends! We know a few of those, including you and Richard. The pretzel recipe is on its way to your inbox.
November 25, 2021 at 13:56
If Mark and Liesbet are ever in your area, invite them to come for a visit. They are wonderful house guests! We sure enjoyed our time together. Please come back, you two…and have a wonderful Thanksgiving. Can’t wait to catch up again in Baja!
November 27, 2021 at 13:23
You are too nice, Gail! We can’t wait to meet up again in Baja, once our “business” in the US is settled. 🙂 We hope you had a lovely Thanksgiving at the beach! We will be ready for some fun in the sun in January.
November 25, 2021 at 14:19
I love soft pretzels! Yum! The president walk is so cool. I have to remember it if I ever make it S Dakota again – which i realky hope to do since I want to see the Badlands.
I bet you were glad you have a 4WD going to your friends’ place. What a lovey house. But too much snow! Definitely time to head south!
Hope you are having a good Thanksgiving. XO to you Maya and Mark.
November 27, 2021 at 13:26
Whenever we all rent a house with an oven somewhere, Mark will have to make these pretzels again. They are the best, especially dipped in spicy mustard.
We didn’t have a lot of time in Rapid City, so we only found a few of my favorite presidents. This means we will have to go back as well. And, there is so much to see and do in the Black Hills that warrant a return visit. So much to experience, so little time.
November 26, 2021 at 21:24
Liesbet, You managed to see snow before me this year 🙂 How wonderful that you got to see your friends again. Jon and Gail’s home looks beautiful. I hope you had a warm and full Thanksgiving and enjoy a special weekend.
November 27, 2021 at 13:42
Yes, I did the first snow spotting between the two of us. But, for me, it will be the only time this winter! 🙂 Thanksgiving was tasty – Mark is a wonderful cook. Thank you for the wishes. It will be a quiet birthday weekend with good food and drinks and the lovely company of husband and dog in pretty desert surroundings. What more could I ask for? 🙂
November 28, 2021 at 01:12
What a beautiful home! And the snow might have been nervewracking, but at least now you know how Thirsty performs in snowy conditions. Here’s hoping you can avoid the white stuff for the rest of the winter! 🙂
November 28, 2021 at 13:24
Hi Diane!
Jon and Gail’s house is amazing and they built it all themselves. You’d be a pro or have fun doing such a thing too, I think, but it sure looked daunting to me. The end result is worth it, but facing such a project is not for the faint of heart. 🙂
Thanks for the wishes! I don’t think it ever snows in Southern Arizona and Baja California. Although, you never know these years.
Happy Sunday!!
November 28, 2021 at 19:12
Oh my goodness, Liesbet, a nail biter with that treck through the snow! Reminded me when we moved our trailer last January with chains and driving 3 mph down the snowcovered hill. Mark is a great driver! How amazing to hang out with your friends in their fabulous home and what a great stop for Thanksgiving! As for our road trip south sans trailer, we are waiting close to the last minute after Christmas to decide to go. Happy trails and I look forward to your next adventure!
November 29, 2021 at 14:12
You are right, Terri, Mark is a great and prudent driver. As long as I keep my mouth shut in cities, it’s all good. 🙂 Sounds a bit scary to be driving a trailer throughout the snow! I’m sure Hans is an excellent driver with lots of experience.
I hope you two get to go on another southern adventure as well this winter. Fingers crossed!
November 29, 2021 at 09:22
How fun to revisit your travel friends in their home base! I remember your meeting in Baja and the connection you felt with them. Even after decades of living in a snowy place, I recoil at drives through slippery snow these days, and that one would have given me a moment of pause. Good to find a cozy, warm abode and good friends at the end of it!
November 29, 2021 at 14:16
I don’t envy your memories and experience in the snow (in Chicago, I presume), Lexie! I actually have never driven a car in snow. There was never any that stuck in Belgium. Might be interesting, but I can imagine it would come with lots of “slippage.” Not sure I’d want to venture a try. Plus, snow is usually not a part of our lives. This experience came unexpectedly, but it was needed in order to reach our friends. Next time we see them, we will have to brave narrow, steep, and rocky roads in Baja to reach their favorite beach. 🙂
November 29, 2021 at 18:27
Wow, I’m glad you guys got Thirsty et al out stuck snow. And hope you always keep a warm jacket around. One never knows what climate change will wrath. 🙂 Looks like a fab time. Do you guys have heat in the camper? I’d imagine it was quite cold in SD. xx
December 1, 2021 at 17:11
Hi Debby,
Yes, we have wonderful heat in the camper. Get this, it’s radiant heating! That’s how fancy our new, tiny set-up is. The heater is quiet, uses some propane, but mostly sends warm liquid around the interior and even the tanks so they don’t freeze. When we visited our friends in SD, they let us plug into electricity so we didn’t use any of our battery power or propane. Very generous! 🙂
December 2, 2021 at 09:35
Very generous! Glad you have ‘radiant’ heating, lol. Gotta stay warm! 🙂
December 3, 2021 at 11:22
Yup! Luckily, the sun is doing a good job here in Phoenix at the moment.