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A Life Less Ordinary

Category: Places (page 2 of 22)

Two Highlights in Peru: Pallcoyo Colored Mountains and the Reed Islands of Uros in Titicaca Lake

November 21, 2023 / / 34 Comments

After we departed the Sacred Valley and Cusco, we had less than two weeks left in Peru, so we headed towards the border with Bolivia, slowly. The idea was to obtain another 60 days or more to meet up with family from Belgium and friends from Canada back in Cusco, the end of November.

Laguna de Huacarpay

Our first night heading east was spent along a small and peaceful lake, enjoyed by local families that Sunday afternoon. The night was relatively quiet, until we were awakened by knocks on the side of the camper at 5am. It was a Peruvian man asking us if anyone else had been camped here in a tent last night. Not that we knew, but why was that important enough to wake up two gringos? We will never know.

A popular campsite for dogs during the weekend
Laguna Huacarpay

Pallcoyo Colored Mountains

Then, we headed to what would become our favorite destination in this country to date. It was a tough one to get to. From the moment we turned off the main road and onto the one-lane side track, we had to back up for three tour vans. We figured in the afternoon, it would be quieter; hence our late start… These were tourists heading back to Cusco at 3pm, after two hours of driving down the mountain.

Luckily, we didn’t encounter anyone else on our way up this narrow, tricky road. After an hour of exercising steel nerves and concentration, we pulled over along the river. Our only company some locals passing by on motorcycles or cars, but mostly a shepherd and her flock of sheep, llamas, and alpacas.

Narrow road driving up the mountain
Camped among sheep, llamas, and alpacas
Curious llama
Our riverside camping spot for a few nights
Maya loves splashing in the water
The mountain river next to our campsite

The following day had one purpose: watch the traffic patterns on this tight, gravel road (to use that information for our drive to the top – and back down) and figure out if we would take the camper up or just the truck (leaving our home behind for half a day again). Or, to hitch a ride or pay our way with a tour van, which would mean less flexibility and a bigger crowd.

After deciding to take our entire truck camper up, we left at 6:30am to arrive at Pallcoyo Mountain, also called Three Colored Mountains or Three Rainbow Mountains, an hour later. I was impressed by the scenery along the way. It was as if we were driving through a nature documentary in the Andes Mountains (we were!) – stunning terraces, bucolic scenes like a kid tending to a donkey and a Quechua woman carrying a lamb in a bag on her back that jumped out as we passed, and spectacular yet barren mountain sides at this high elevation.

Leaving with the first light
Making our way up the mountain, along terraced fields
Before we reach the real Colored Mountains
Signing in and paying our entrance fees
Thirsty Bella among colorful mountains
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The Sacred Valley in Peru – As Overlanders

November 6, 2023 / / 29 Comments

After two weeks in Cusco, doing camper projects, running errands, being sick, and exploring the historic center, our plans turned a bit tricky. My cousin and her husband, perfect guests who visited us frequently when we sailed in the tropics, had booked plane tickets to join us in the Cusco area for two weeks, towards the end of November, following a two-week bus tour through Southern Peru. Nothing tricky about that, except for the fact that our immigration stamps expired the end of October…

Based on accounts from other overlanders, we believed we had a good chance to obtain another sixty days in Peru, at the border with Bolivia; an ordeal we’d have to figure out later and something I worried about for over a month. It was mid-October now and we had two weeks left in the country.

We expected to visit the Sacred Valley with my family, but what if we wouldn’t be allowed back into Peru? Were we willing to miss out on this country’s highlights, like Machu Picchu, Arequipa, and the villages and archeological sites in the Valle Segrado?

Mark and I opted for an in-between solution: we skipped famous Machu Picchu (expensive and a hassle to get to) – for now – and bought a two-day tourist ticket for 70 soles/$20 each to visit the highlights of the Sacred Valley. This would be a different way of traveling for us, who usually take it slowly, camping wherever it looks attractive. We had two days to explore five sites and two historic villages!

Location Sacred Valley in Peru
Highlights of the Sacred Valley

Pisac archeological site

From the Cusco campground, we headed uphill, past the trio of ruins we’d checked out previously, via a viewpoint that offered potable water from a spigot, to a pull-out along a quiet road for the night. The following morning, we descended into the valley and spotted the famous terraced hills of Pisac.

Getting potable water at a viewpoint
The terraces of Pisac, seen from the viewpoint
Incredible stonework and paths!

Traveling with a camper makes it easy to leave our dog behind, in a cool and shady environment with plenty of water. Mark and I braved the long climb to the citadel, breathing heavily in the thin air and taking many breaks.

The Pisac archeological site is a large Incan complex of agricultural terraces, residences, guard posts, watchtowers, and a ceremonial center along a mountain ridge above the town of the same name. It was built around 1440.

Fort-like structure when entering Pisac
Buildings at a lower level
View into the valley and over the switchback road to the ruins
Structures higher on the hill, a serious climb away
Meandering through the old fort

Little is known about the site’s actual purpose. Researchers believe that old Pisac defended the southern entrance to the Sacred Valley and was an observatory and religious site.

Famous terraces of Pisac
Walking over the top terrace to get to another side of the grounds
Well-maintained Inca wall
The terraces and valley seen from the other side
Climbing up and among the buildings of the upper part of the site
Remnants of the old Inca village of Pisac

The best way to explore this destination is by taking a taxi or minibus to the entrance, climbing the hill, and then following a path down to Pisac town. Since we had our vehicle with us, we only visited the top part of this impressive site.

A llama and an alpaca grazing in the old walls
Trying to leave this touristy site that had gotten much busier by the time we finished exploring
Quechua mother and child on our way down the mountain

Pisac town

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Cusco & Surroundings in Peru – As Overlanders

October 26, 2023 / / 46 Comments

Most overlanders (RVers, campers) who visit Cusco stay at the campground Quinta Lala above town. It’s possible to walk to the city center from there and then have a tough climb back home, at 12,000ft elevation, or take a $3 cab ride. 

Cusco in Peru
Cusco, Q’enqo, Puka Pukara, and Tambomachay in Peru
Blocked in at our parking spot during the weekend

Mark and I decided to spend our first handful of days closer to the historic district, at a free parking area, a few blocks from the main square, Plaza de Armas. It was the perfect location to run errands and explore the beautiful heart of Cusco.

(As always, hover over or click on photos in galleries to read their captions.)

Plaza de Armas, easily the most beautiful plaza we have encountered in South America!
Beautiful buildings around the main plaza
Old church
Quechua women walking baby sheep and llamas to pose and be photographed for money
Cathedral
Narrow alleyways
Mural
Indigenous monument
Church in the hills, seen from the main plaza
Cute courtyard

We managed to get heaps of laundry done affordably (after hauling it up many steps to the drop-off store), but this required checking several of the numerous laundry places, as they cheat you with their scales, and multiple walks back and forth, since the task lasted longer than promised.

Steep and narrow roads to drive and walk
Don’t believe anything these signs say!

It took us a few days to find the right materials – in addition to parts brought from the US by a friend – for our Starlink mounting project. A couple of big grocery stores and the central market, as well as a wonderful bakery, Cosqo Maki, were within walking distance. 

We finally found a plexiglass shop!
Buying a piece of plexiglass and having it cut to our dimensions
Church by the central market – there is a big supermarket here as well (Orion)
Many different varieties of potatoes at the San Pedro Central Market
Our favorite bakery

And, our Italian friends Valeria and Davide joined us after their terrible radiator problem came to a happy end. We explored town together and shared a few yummy meals – and drinks.

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Overlanding from Lima to Cusco in Peru – Paracas, the Famous Nazca Lines, and Other Attractions

October 19, 2023 / / 30 Comments
Lima to Cusco via Paracas, Peru
Route from Lima to Cusco

Paracas

Before heading inland again from the generally unattractive Peruvian coast, Mark, Maya, and I stopped in the beach town of Paracas on 9/11. The commercial center didn’t do much for us – it was touristy, expensive, and unfriendly – but when we arrived at a free parking lot late afternoon, we liked what we saw. This camping spot was big and relatively level, quiet, pretty, and litter free. Maybe we could stay a few days? The sun was present in a blue sky when we walked Maya, and later gloriously set over the peninsula that is Paracas National Park. Not bad…

(As always, click on or hover over the images in the galleries to read their captions.)

More trash along the coast
Our first impression of Paracas town and beach
Afternoon walk along the boardwalk without hordes of tourists
Maya meets a buddy on the boardwalk
Sunset on our first evening

We watched in awe as local men pulled boats out of the water on a rusty trailer, pulled by an old, extremely noisy pickup truck, pulled by a newer truck. We deducted that they keep using the crappy, ancient truck to deal with the salty water and the fancier one higher up the beach for its power.

Truck pulling truck pulling boat – a daily occurrence next to us, outside the sand storm days

Mark and I had parked our camper next to a big, stationary power boat on a trailer that didn’t seem to have moved in years. It had bent axels and flat tires. We figured our spot was wise; out of the way and somewhat blocked by the trailer.

“This boat must have been stored here for many months and will never move,” we thought.
How could it move, right?
Well, it did!

Imagine our surprise when, around sunset, a group of guys in pickup trucks arrived, inflated the tires of the trailer with a compressor powered by a generator, removed some wooden blocks, and, after a few attempts, managed to pull this mastodont with a truck pulling a truck, all the way to the street and out of sight, taking down an electrical wire along the way. The scene was insane!

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Peru’s Capital, Lima – A Pleasant Surprise

September 27, 2023 / / 44 Comments

Our route from Huaraz in the Cordillera Blanca to Lima, Peru’s capital, was no joke. The first stretch of road (3N) towards a main east-west highway (Hwy 16) was riddled with potholes and took hours to complete. Each time we wanted to weave around a massive hole, into the other lane, someone else overtook us, forcing Thirsty Bella to slow to a crawl and go through the craters. Not a fun drive.

(As always, hover over or click on photos in galleries to read their captions.)

Leaving the snowy Cordillera Blanca
A road sprinkled with potholes
A man filling potholes in return for tips
Even in the towns, the road surface can be horrendous.
Approaching the coast

Barranca

Once we reached Hwy 16, the going was smooth and relatively fast again, towards the barren, desolate, littered coastline. We spent one night in the beach town of Barranca to break up the trip to Lima. It was the weekend, so not a surprise that loud music and a partying bar had us move camping spots in the middle of the night.

Parked at our first choice in Barranca
On Sunday afternoons, everyone comes to the waterfront to blast music and drink beer.
As the sun set, more crowds gathered to party.
Another grey, coastal city
We moved to this spot in the dark, hoping for a quieter night.

Miraflores

The estimated four-hour drive from Barranca easily took an hour longer due to the horrendous traffic of Lima. Slow progress is what it is, but when you have to fight for a spot on the road with massive semi-trucks, who make left turns from the extreme right lane and you’re pushed from all sides by impatient drivers, while literally everyone honks their horn, you can imagine driving around the capital (let alone in it!) is far from ideal!

Back at the coast, back at the trash piles
More trash along the Pan-American Highway
Stuck in Lima traffic arriving
Trucks making crazy maneuvers
Stuck in Lima traffic leaving

Once we were settled at one of the many (secured) beach parking lots in the Miraflores area, we let out a sigh of relief and contacted our new American friends whom we met near Laguna Churup. Mark and I took Maya for a walk along the seemingly infinite “boardwalk” and grey shoreline.

Coastline in Lima
Lima attracts a lot of surfers
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Overlanding in the Cordillera Blanca, Peru – Rough Roads and Splendid Scenery

September 20, 2023 / / 37 Comments

From the sleepy fishing village of Tortugas, Mark, Maya, and I headed inland again, back to the Andes Mountains. After traveling around Northern Peru for three weeks in our truck camper Thirsty Bella, our first impressions of the country had not been positive. Fellow overlanders kept telling us “It would get better further south.” We were both looking forward to “better,” “prettier,” and, above all, “quieter.”

Location Cordillera Blanca in Peru
Close-up Cordillera Blanca in Peru

Map of our sights in the Cordillera Blanca

Huaraz

We drove from sea level to 14,000ft (4,200m) in one day, so, as you can imagine, the scenery changed drastically as we climbed from littered roads and uninspiring plots of dirt to green fields, pine trees, and, above the tree line, views of the impressive snowy peaks of the Cordillera Blanca.

(As always, hover over or click on photos in galleries to read their captions.)

Driving into the Andes
View of the Cordillera Blanca
Snowy tops in the distance
Happy for the blue skies at this altitude!
Quechua woman along the road

On our first night in the hectic town of Huaraz, we decided to camp at its viewpoint (11,000ft or 3,350m) for a more peaceful experience. We failed to learn that the road up was narrow, rocky, and stressful. I can’t say the view was that special, but we did, at least and at last and despite a vague headache, have a quiet night – after trying to level up a bit, getting dressed for and dealing with a police visit at 11pm, and meeting expat and missionary Larry, who thought it was a good idea to scream “Good morning, Liesbet and Mark” on his 5am run the following day.

Cross at the mirador (viewpoint)
View from above Huaraz
Huaraz by night
Huaraz by day
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Overlanding along the Coast of Northern Peru – A Mixed Bag

September 10, 2023 / / 35 Comments

Many overlanding friends warned us about the limitless trash piles along the Pan-American Highway paralleling the Peruvian coast. This is an area the usual tourist doesn’t venture to, for good reasons. In general, the North coast is desolate, depressing, stark, and filthy, but there are a few interesting sites to check out.

Sunset at the beach

Puerto Malabrigo

After leaving Cajamarca, Mark, Maya, and I continued our drive to the Peruvian coast, mainly because the road south from there (the Panamericana) is paved, smooth, wide, and fast. That part was a nice change from the narrow, curvy, sketchy roads we’d been taking to cross the Andes Mountains.

(As always, hover over or click on photos in galleries to read their captions.)

Rice paddies in the lower valleys
River valley
Look at those nicely paved roads!
Sand dunes
Reaching the dusty, windy coast

The scenery, however, was bleak and – as expected – heavily littered. Sometimes, it looked and smelled like we were driving through a garbage dump. Sad.

A common sight
Garbage along the side of the road
More litter along a coastal road
Ironic sign along the road: Forbidden to throw garbage

Our first stop was a free beach camping spot in Puerto Malabrigo, which we had picked based on the descriptions and photos in our trusty app iOverlander. There are not a lot of places where you can actually camp on the beach, and be surrounded by relative peace. The fact that this site had picnic tables and a thatched umbrella for shade was a bonus. We leveled up at the end of this area, so nobody would pass us, and were pleasantly surprised with this find.

From some angles, this place looked very pretty
Nice and modern boardwalk
Finally back at the ocean after ten months

Actually, we were super excited and relieved about the prospect of finally sitting still for a few days. The sand was soft, the beach long and flat for walks with Maya, the internet worked well, our cabinets, fridge, and water tanks were full, a newly built boardwalk beckoned, we could hear the waves, and the small town offered tiendas (stores), restaurantes, and panaderias (bakeries).

Picnic tables and umbrellas on the beach
We looked forward to a few days of relaxation in this attractive spot on the beach.

Our joy was short lived.

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First Impressions of Northern Peru – Noise, Nature, and Necropoli

August 29, 2023 / / 32 Comments

Peru has been a struggle for Mark, Maya, and me, but we hope to find our groove one of these days. Not that anything bad happened. Just that things have been difficult – finding internet, being able to sleep at night due to noise, witnessing all the trash, not connecting with the locals, weird vibes, the bad quality of food in stores, the higher cost of living – and fuel…

Jaen

The border crossing from Ecuador into Northern Peru in La Balsa was busier than usual on a Sunday, but everything went relatively smoothly and was wrapped up within two hours. As always, the TIP (Temporary Import Permit) for the vehicle took the longest to obtain. Our biggest disappointment happened at immigration. Mark and I requested a “visa” for six months, but the officer was only able/allowed/willing to give us three. Peru is a huge country to explore within three months by camper.

At the Peruvian land border
Waiting in line to get access into the country
Bye, bye Ecuador

From the moment we touched Peruvian soil, the roads turned into smooth pavement and offered a welcome change. People were drying coffee beans alongside, which cut the width of usable surface in half, but traffic was light. We took in the sights and pushed all the way to Jaen, the first city. We found a decent-looking camping spot by a river and needed the local currency (soles), a Peruvian SIM card and data plan for internet, and food.

Plenty of space in between, as long as nobody comes from the other side…
Drying coffee beans
We were surprised to see rice paddies, but the border was at a low elevation with a temperature of 90 degrees F.
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Two Enjoyable Cities & Inca Ruins in Southern Ecuador – Cuenca, Vilcabamba, and Ingapirca

August 18, 2023 / / 45 Comments

When the middle of July arrived, Mark and I found ourselves with only two weeks left in Ecuador, before our allotted three-month entry stamp expired (August 2nd). By then, we had long decided to skip the jungle region and, more recently, the coast as well. For months, we had looked forward to visiting the beaches of Montanita, watching the sunset, having happy hour with our toes in the sand, and letting Maya frolic in the sea. But it would be a major detour and – as we were about to head that way – police officers, knocking on our door at 6am near Cotopaxi Volcano, talked us out of it. Drug-related crime and petty theft seem to fester along the Ecuadorian coast.

View towards the Temple of the Sun at Ingapirca

Ingapirca – Our First Inca Ruins

The three of us kept heading south after spotting the snowy peak of Volcano Chimborazo (I added a cool photo to my last Ecuador post of my friend Marie on top of the world – and closest to the sun – after scaling Chimborazo) and aimed for the Inca Ruins of Ingapirca.

Marie on the top of Chimborazo at sunrise
Photo credit Marie Fraisse

It was a long drive, involving a massive detour over bumpy roads around and through the town of Alousi, due to a massive landslide and subsequent road works. The scenery was stunning!

(As always, hover over or click on photos in galleries to read their captions.)

Stunning scenery along the way in Alousi
Long and bumpy detour
This bus had a hard time making the turn!

We arrived at our destination late afternoon, so the parking lot was pretty full and we took a temporary, unlevel spot, while checking out the neighborhood with Maya. Once a level space became available, we moved and settled in for the night. We’d visit the ruins in the morning, thinking we would stay for two nights. But, since the parking lot was actually straddling a busy road and residents love to ride their loud motorcycles with 2-stroke engines, we decided to not face a second sleepless night.

Parking lot of the Ingapirca ruins, early morning

This relatively small site packed a punch for us, because it was our introduction to the Inca empire and culture. Tickets only cost US$2 per person and include a guide. Maya stayed home for this one. We booked the first tour of the day at 9:15am and enjoyed the different areas and English explanations of our excellent and passionate guide, Segundo.

Information sign three languages
Overview of the site
View towards the Temple of the Sun
Storage areas
Burial site of an important person and where the sun hits during the equinox
Part of the old Inca Trail in Ecuador

We learned a lot about the Incas and their predecessors, the Cañaris, whose building practices the Incas only integrated here at Ingapirca, Southern Ecuador. Both groups used different kinds of stones, visible at this site. The Cañaris utilized round river rocks and the Incas cut, rectangular blocks. This is the only Inca site in the world with a temple (Temple of the Sun – Templo del Sol) that has round walls, because of the influence of the Cañaris.

Grazing llamas on the site
Temple of the Sun
These blocks were removed from the site by farmers and then – during a local campaign – returned for their historical value. The wider curved stone acted as a beam support for a building. The narrower, deeper curved stone was to sacrifice llamas.
Temple of the Sun
This significant building was a gathering place and had important relics on display – nobody lived here
The Temple of the Sun seen from its back side in the fields

After the hour-long tour, Mark and I finished exploring the region with a self-guided walk past smaller sites and through nature. It was super quiet and we had to work around sprinklers in the fields to avoid getting soaked.

Significant rock
Walk through the fields
Carrying milk
Can you see the face?
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Volcanos and Waterfalls in Central Ecuador – Cotopaxi, Chimborazo, Quilotoa, and Baños

August 4, 2023 / / 48 Comments

After Mark, Maya, and I finished our car projects and left the comfortable and safe haven of friend Graham’s driveway in Ibarra, we only had four weeks left to explore the central and southern part of Ecuador, before our three-month visas expired. We hadn’t gotten very far yet, after two months!

Our visited sites in Central Ecuador

Cotopaxi Volcano

We drove a bunch to pick up our trail from a month prior, south of Quito, the country’s capital. Our first stop was the impressive Cotopaxi volcano, which is often hiding in the frequent clouds at this altitude.

Cloudy arrival at our camp spot

Thanks to our free iOverlander app, we found a peaceful wild camping spot near the national park. We failed to see the mountain, but we persevered, spending two nights at 12,000ft (3,650m) without internet, walking Maya in the paramo, meeting wild horses, running our heater at night, and waiting for a glimpse.

Pretty horse
More wild horses
Morning walk with Maya
Small waterfall during our explorations

On our second evening, after the sun set, we spotted Cotopaxi’s snowy top. The light was not ideal for optimal viewing or photography. We crossed our fingers for a clear morning the following day as, unfortunately, we couldn’t stay longer due to the lack of cell service.

Waiting for a glimpse of Cotopaxi’s top
The volcano appeared in the last light of the day.

And, look what we woke up to on day three! Time for photo shoots – and to drive into the national park for an up-close view and feel of Cotopaxi!

Early morning glimpse of Cotopaxi
A joyful walk
The moment to take selfies
The same small waterfall, now with the volcano in the background
Another family portrait attempt

Since dogs are technically not allowed in Ecuadorian national parks (which are free), Maya stayed in the car and camper during our visit. We first drove to a small lake with decent views.

National Park entrance
Hand-drawn map of the park
Driving into the National Park
Getting closer to the active volcano
Not too much snow left
A detour to the lake
A mellow day

Then, our heavy vehicle managed to climb the volcano itself, to the parking lot at 15,000ft (4,570m), from where visitors can ascend the mountain to a glacier and refugio (shelter/restaurant). It is possible to climb further to the top with a guide. As you can imagine, the air was thin here and putting one foot in front of the other laborious. Mark made it “up there,” but I had to turn around when dizziness and a serious headache threatened.

Slowly climbing to 15,000ft with Thirsty Bella
Approaching the road up Cotopaxi
Ready to ascend the mountain on foot to the “refugio” (building up ahead)
View from the climb up, before I turned around
When we drove back down the volcano around 11am, it was already shrouded in clouds again.

Quilotoa Lagoon

Quilotoa has been a highlight for many visitors to Ecuador, so we had to check it out. The road to the small town with the same name was paved and pretty, but realizing that hundreds of homeless, starving dogs are being dumped and now linger along this “highway” was heart-breaking.

Stray dog in the gutter
Waiting for food
I really hope someone picks a dog up once in a while
Another pretty, abandoned dog
Not a lot of indigenous people have cars.
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