Our arrival in Baja California, Mexico, was delayed by six weeks, because we decided to work for a month in the Phoenix area (Arizona, USA) after spending more money than anticipated on the cross-country drive from east to west. We also had a few important phone calls requiring unwavering internet and we needed an extra two weeks to prep our camper for the trip.
The majestic Sea of Cortez
Soon after crossing the border in mid-January, we decided Mark should fly back to Massachusetts for a family matter. To accommodate that impromptu trip, we “rushed” south on the peninsula and prepared for his imminent return. Maya and I stayed at a campground in Loreto (Rivera Del Mar) during his ten-day absence.
(As always, hover over or click on the photos to read their captions.)
After all those arrangements and adjustements, you can imagine that we were more than ready and excited to take “a break from life” and start our Baja adventures. On February 1st, we filled our truck camper, T&T, with drinking water, propane, and food, emptied our sewage tanks at the campground, and headed south for a beach vacation along the Sea of Cortez. We spent one night at Juncalito Beach to get a decent start the next morning. The road to our destination in the Agua Verde area would be slow, treacherous, and mind blowing; a perfect introduction to Baja’s roughness and beauty.
As expected, the single-track dirt road contained sharp turns, potholes, small rocks, and gravel. Some parts were steep and nerves of steel were required. Mark did a great job bringing us down to the coastline, where the track turned into the usual Baja secondary road: washboard, sand, and gravel. The cloudy, drizzly weather was unusual.
Our main reason to visit the pebble beach was to see our artist friends Jon and Gail, who spend their winters in this remote area. Just like four months prior (but without the unexpected snow), they greeted us along the way and escorted us in. The route was narrow and one of the first things we did the following day was trim the prickly bushes and trees to make our departure easier.
For the next ten days, Mark, Maya, and I had a fabulous time. Our friends generously let us use their satellite internet signal in the mornings to grab emails and check up on Mark’s dad. The days were relaxing and the evenings social.
Hiking in the area provided wonderful views with little human intervention. The choices were up in the hills or along the coast on rocky and sandy beaches. The nights were quiet and bursting with stars.
A few days into this stay at the pebble beach, our friends Duwan and Greg (Make Like An Apeman) joined us in their van, Ballena Blanca, and brought goodies: two bottles of our favorite rum Flor de Caña (which they had picked up in Los Algodones), an inflatable kayak, and a car (El Burro) to go on daytrips.
Being on the (chilly) water allowed closer looks of the marvelous sea life in the Sea of Cortez. We frequently spotted pods of dolphins pass through the bay, pelicans were ever present, and the occasional humpback whale made an appearance as well. I did manage to kayak within a respectable distance of dolphins and a whale, but it was Duwan who managed to take cool shots of this majestic animal diving down.
One random morning, the pelicans got into a frenzy. Schools of fish had appeared in our little bay. The birds would trap them close to shore and bombard them, scooping them up with their beaks, just like we grab handfuls of nuts as a snack. It was a spectacular sight! The abundance of wildlife is why I love the Sea of Cortez so much.
Another highlight was the day trip Duwan, Greg, Mark, Maya, and I made in El Burro. The dusty fishing village of Agua Verde was a short distance away, but the rough and slow drive took forever. Again, the sea views were worthwhile and the town provided a step back in time. I totally enjoyed the laidback atmosphere and lack of tourists.
Our group went on a five-mile hike through a sandy arroyo (dry river bed), that ended at a cathedral canyon. It was a slog under the beating sun. Luckily, the final part provided shade. On the walk back, we mostly followed cattle trails along the arroyo for better footing.
The view from one of the two local restaurants wasn’t too shabby. Our fish tacos were worth the wait. A look through binoculars revealed a sandy beach and popular anchorage across the bay. We decided to head there after securing extra water in jugs and pouches and a few grocery items at the closed store, which a family member of the owner graciously opened for us.
The gravel access road to this attractive peninsula beach was steep; one of the reasons heavy campers can’t make it down. Four-wheel-drive is recommended, which our friends’ car and our pick-up truck are equipped with. Still, it looked and felt a bit tricky.
While we walked around the beach and rocky outcrops, my body and soul craved to return here for an extended period. Mark also enjoyed this beach visit, so we kept it in mind for our trip back north. As I write this post, the end of March, we have repeated the challenging, multiple-hour drive to get here and are currently enjoying these scenes in Agua Verde again. And, our experiences are even better the second time around. One day, I will post a blog about those, too.
But first, I am publishing this one, after putting my computer in a backpack, walking thirty hot minutes along the rocks during low tide, purchasing internet time at the second restaurant in the village, and hoping the connection is strong enough for long enough to upload all the photos!
Sunrise over the Sea of Cortez
Needles to say, the Agua Verde area in Baja California has become one of our favorite destinations in Mexico.
Mark poses with a print of one of Jon’s most popular paintings, while reenacting the scene that took place on this beach.
Connection to our South American plans
One of our goals during this overland journey throughout the Baja peninsula is to test our truck and camper in the harsh environment, figure out how to improve it, and decide what else we need for our upcoming South America adventure, later this year. Here are the items we have added to our list after our first Agua Verde stop:
- Electric hand saw
- Extra tank for fresh water (Temp holds 38 gallons and we carry four pouches of two gallons each)
- Kayak?
- New hiking shoes
- Extra pair of binoculars
Stay tuned for more good times in Baja, whenever my internet availability allows!
Duwan and Greg are much more up to date with their Baja blogs. To read their experiences about Agua Verde, click here.
Curious about a previous ten-year chapter in our nomadic lives, which includes eight years aboard a 35-foot sailboat in the tropics, check out the travel/adventure/personal memoir I wrote:
March 26, 2022 at 15:39
Fantastic! We sailed and anchored in Agua Verde few different times during our year of sailing. So happy it still is pristine and not developed. Thanks for the memories! The Sea of Cortez was our best cruising experience by far!
Cheers!
March 26, 2022 at 15:45
I’ve been thinking about you two as we are currently camped next to a perfect anchorage and have met a few sailors. I can totally see why you liked cruising in the Sea of Cortez! And, you are right, not much has changed in dusty Agua Verde – except the availability of WiFi!!! 🙂
March 26, 2022 at 16:38
It sounds like you are continuing to have a great time exploring beautiful Baja. How nice that you were able to spend quality time with friends. Fingers crossed for internet here and there so you can share your adventure.
March 29, 2022 at 18:38
Thanks, Janis. We have been in Baja for over two months now and I’m seriously behind with my reporting and sharing of photos. Surprisingly, being without internet has been a blessing in many ways. We’ve had way more adventures, discoveries, and fun than last winter! 🙂
March 26, 2022 at 16:48
Stunning photos, Liesbet! May the Internet be with you!
March 29, 2022 at 19:01
Haha, thanks Donna. We are currently back in Loreto (where I stayed without Mark for a bit in January) and that means: hot, pressurized showers, internet, and good restaurants. 🙂
March 26, 2022 at 17:56
I felt like I was with you the entire time. That’s because you’re writing and photos fill in any questions I might have. I like how you manage to link up with your other nomadic friends. I also follow Duwan and Greg’s blog. I’m pretty sure I must have found them through you. Safe travels filled with many rich adventures.
March 29, 2022 at 19:06
Thanks, Pete. At the moment, we are taking a welcome break from adventures in Loreto. 🙂 Yes, I think you found Duwan and Greg through my bog, as I often linked to them. There are a few other names I now recognize “over there”.
I often see your comments on their website and smile, because in a way, I feel you are reading about our adventures as well whenever the four of us travel together. Duwan does a much more detailed job than me and is not so far behind!
March 27, 2022 at 08:21
Looks lovely, Liesbet.
I am delighted to say that, at last, we’re sitting at Newhaven on Britain’s south coast about to board the ferry to our next adventure!
Woo Hoo!
For a while, it felt like the day would never come.
March 29, 2022 at 19:09
I’m so happy that day finally came, Jackie!! I’m rooting and cheering with you for an uneventful crossing and fantastic adventures in Europe. Life on the road is the best! Happy travels in The Beast. 🙂
March 27, 2022 at 08:37
Love your descriptions of everything! I can’t imagine Agua Verde being even better – but I guess I will have to wait for that blog!
We are in wine country now, north of Ensenada. So far away, so quickly. Time has flown. Our Baja adventure will be over too soon!
And BTW – we are going to selk our kayak and get a folding one. Let us know if you are interested.
March 29, 2022 at 19:11
Hi Duwan!
I can’t believe your Baja adventure has come to an end already. We might be soon behind you, who knows. Northern Baja is less interesting than the south. We have had an incredible winter, though. Thanks for joining us for some of it.
Was wine country worth it? I’ll send you a quick update one of these days. We just got back to Loreto.
March 27, 2022 at 09:50
It’s obvious you are enjoying life in Agua Verde and you have a detailed account to prove it. Long ago I remember the prep similar to what you posted here: “propane, and food, emptied our sewage tanks at the campground. . . .”
The nomadic life was not suitable for us with two small children, but at least I understand a bit of life on the road. I’m glad you get super internet connections every now and then. Great!
Thanks for sharing, Liesbet!
March 29, 2022 at 19:13
I like the fact that you lived on the road for a while with your family, Marian. Like you note, it’s easier to understand the intricacies of that lifestyle. Keeping our household going can be a challenge at times, but so much easier than on a boat. Still, the days fly by way too fast. Not having internet for days on end, actually makes the day longer as we can focus on “real life” more, like during our time in Agua Verde. I think that might have been my highlight of this Baja trip!
March 27, 2022 at 10:59
What an amazing lifestyle, Liesbet. Scientists speculate that ‘wandering’ is an early characteristic of man and why we spread throughout the planet. We wanted to see what was over the horizon! Your adventures certainly make that exciting!
March 29, 2022 at 19:16
You have so much wisdom about early man, Jacqui! I often think I’m an “old soul” as I like a simple, basic life, while wandering around. I do miss creature comforts at times, yet, the only real reason for me to have a home/house in one spot is the feeling of “coming home” after some time away. That might be nice, one day. 🙂
March 27, 2022 at 13:31
Such a grand adventure. Seeing humpbacks while on the water – bet that was priceless.
March 29, 2022 at 19:18
Seeing the whale while kayaking was very cool, Alex. I wish I could have gotten closer, but he swam much faster than I could paddle. Yet, the experience with grey whales we had in Baja last year, being able to interact with them and pet them, was one of a lifetime! 🙂
March 27, 2022 at 14:38
Looks gorgeous! And with the bonus of spending time with good friends.
March 29, 2022 at 19:20
Thanks, Anabel. It was fun to have our friends around for about a month. We love socializing with like-minded people, but we also like our peace. This past winter, Mark, Maya, and I found the perfect balance and some amazing places to camp and enjoy. It has been great!
March 27, 2022 at 14:44
Wow! What breath-taking photos! The terrain sounds harsh, but so worth the trip. (Especially if you get to see whales and pelicans!) 🙂
March 29, 2022 at 19:22
Oh, Diane, wildlife watching or encounters are what always gets me. On our sailboat, but also on land. We’ve been able to spot many amazing species throughout our travels. And, the desert has a desolate beauty to it. I’m not sure why or how, but Baja put a spell on me. 🙂
March 27, 2022 at 18:29
The beaches and wildlife look great. Hope you have good internet service and strong WiFi connection.
March 29, 2022 at 19:23
At the moment, I’m back in internet land, Natalie, for good or for bad. The beaches are swapped for inside camper living and computers. But, once outside, we can still speak Spanish. Duolingo has been fun to practice with, whenever I’m online. 🙂
March 27, 2022 at 19:47
Glad to see you both together and enjoying life with fewer stresses! The sea is beautiful, and you all look relaxed and happy. Wonderful!
March 29, 2022 at 19:24
Thank you for your sweet words, Lexie. We have been – surprisingly – relaxed the past few weeks. First, this was hard to believe and get used to, but now, I have realized that I can live without internet for days at a time and am a better and happier person because of it. So weird…
March 28, 2022 at 03:36
Liesbet, this place looks so idyllic and the difficult access is probably what keeps it that way. Beautiful photos and your detailed writing makes me feel like I am there with you. Do you feel safe there for overnight stay?
March 29, 2022 at 19:29
Hi Gilda!
Yes, we have felt safe pretty much everywhere on the Baja peninsula. This beach in Agua Verde has an old man and his dog living on it in a shed. He’s always there, on his porch, and everyone coming and going passes by his place. We brought him a full bag of groceries when we arrived and every time we walked to town – at low tide around the headland – we asked him what he needed from the store and brought it back for him. We had a super relationship.
We also made some smalltalk with him (in Spanish) whenever we felt like keeping him company. He enjoyed that very much. And, we often unleashed his dog to hang out with us and Maya and give the animal exercise. 🙂
Also, Agua Verde is such a small village (about 300 people live there) that everyone knows each other. Since they have a good relationship with visitors, anything uncouth would get (re)solved. This attitude and the friendliness of the locals made our stay here even more pleasant.
March 28, 2022 at 11:57
Liesbet, thanks for giving us a taste of the beauty of Baja. The photos showing the birds were spectacular. Really enjoyed reading about that part of Mexico. We hope to be able to take our trailer down into Baja next year for at least a month. Not sure of any details, but hope to enter at Tecate, stop in the wine country, and then go south a bit. Stay safe out there and happy travels! Jim
March 29, 2022 at 19:32
Hi Jim!
Thanks for swinging by. I have some amazing video footage of the fishing and diving pelicans as well. If I would have better internet, I could post a little clip once in a while. Apparently, video is the way to go. But, I can be a tad lazy at times as well, when it comes to blogging. 🙂
I really hope the three of you can take Beauty down here next winter. There are quite a few RV parks that cater towards bigger rigs and there are plenty of boondocking areas on beaches that would work, too. If you ever have any specific questions about this area, let us know!
March 28, 2022 at 19:45
You are professional planners as well as wanderers, not leaving too much to chance but staying adventurous every step of the way, Liesbet. How fun to hang out with two sets of friends while explore Baja. If you can get your hands on an inflatable kayak it will be worth it. Happy trails and fingers crossed for good wi-fi!
March 29, 2022 at 19:36
Thanks, Terri. If anything, we usually wing it. But, we plan enough to have a working RV and food on the table, haha. And, to be safe wherever we go. As far as we can control that. 🙂
It’s so much easier now to find places to camp, because of the internet and offline apps like iOverlander. Traveling around the world in your own camper used to be more tricky.
We’re not sure about the kayak purchase yet, as it takes up a lot of space and space is real estate. If we don’t think we will use something often, we most likely won’t carry it with us. We have been lucky enough in the past to have friendly neighbors or friends around with toys! 🙂
March 29, 2022 at 22:02
Spectacular journey and pictures. I see whales daily here and dolphins too, and there are tons of various birds. Only problem is, I’ve yet to be able to catch a photo while the whales flop around with their babies. They come to the Banderas Bay each February to birth and train their babies. <3
April 2, 2022 at 12:56
Hi Debby! It sounds like Banderas Bay is similar to the bays on the west side of Baja, where the grey whales birth their babies as well. Like you, I haven’t been able to take good shots of the whales from ashore. My friend Duwan has a much better camera and she has managed to take some cool photos of the whales breaching and diving down.
April 2, 2022 at 13:18
OH fabulous! I’ve never caught the right moment to capture the jumps 🙂
April 2, 2022 at 15:09
I hear you! All I get is splashes. 🙂
March 30, 2022 at 16:25
Liesbet, I can’t believe you have been away for two months already. I can certainly understand why you wanted to return to Agua Verde. It looks peaceful an serene. I think you should take Duan up on his offer to purchase the inflatable Kayak. You looked very comfortable out there with the whales and dolfins!
April 2, 2022 at 13:02
Time flies when you’re having fun, Suzanne! 🙂 We have almost been here for three months, I think. The beginning of our time in Baja was a tad hectic what with my father-in-law’s health decline and passing, but after that, we have been able to relax and enjoy ourselves.
Funny how photos are deceiving… When I was using that particular kayak (which was from other friends), I didn’t put the rudder down as I didn’t know how and also didn’t want to ruin it by returning to the rocky beach on my own. So, the kayak had no sense of direction and it was a very frustrating time, paddling and trying to catch up with the dolphins and whale, which I failed to do.
We will pass on Duwan and Greg’s kayak as we are not fans of inflatables. They take time to get ready and pack up and once there is a bit of wind, kayaking becomes much more challenging. I don’t think we will purchase a second-hand kayak at all, since it takes up a lot of space, is a hassle to prepare, and we won’t use it enough to make it worthwhile. Neither Mark or I are too excited about kayaking and – so far – we have been able to borrow them from others. 🙂
April 2, 2022 at 10:16
Sounds like you guys have found your ideal place in the world, Liesbet. But with South America on the horizon, I wonder if you’ll find somewhere that tops Baja? And did I read the word snow in this post? Surly not? Unless it was on top of very high mountains?
The sea wildlife sounds amazing. Does the area have any sharks?
April 2, 2022 at 13:09
This pebble beach was quite remote and relaxing, Hugh, but our ideal beach would have sand instead of rocks. 🙂 I’m hoping to post another blog in a few weeks about an even more stunning and enjoyable “beach vacation” off the beaten track.
So far, Baja is quite attractive to us, despite its roughness, but we will see what South America brings. I think we might find places we like better there and it will be much cheaper, too.
The snow I mentioned was encountered in South Dakota, USA, last October, which was a freak snow fall that we managed to stumble upon when last visiting those friends we met up with at “their” beach. Usually, we try our hardest to avoid that four-letter word.
We have not seen, encountered, or heard about any sharks in the Sea of Cortez, except for whale sharks. Outfitters in La Paz (the capital of Baja California Sur) sell tours with the whale sharks, which are gentle giants. 🙂
April 3, 2022 at 10:11
I get what you mean about sand instead of pebbles, Liesbet. Even though I dislike the feel of sand on my skin (I always wear footwear and socks on the beach) it’s easier to walk on sand, and the dogs much prefer it too.
I’m glad there are no great white sharks in the sea. I thought there may be some because the water would be warmer, but then I remembered that the sea current comes south from the arctic on the west coast. I bet a dip in the sea is very refreshing?
April 3, 2022 at 14:03
You are wise to wear shoes or sandals on the beach, Hugh. You will discover why I say that in my most recent post about Cabo Este… 🙂 I have to say, while I prefer sand to pebbles on beaches, after taking Maya for a walk in soft sand twice a day for a week, I had enough of sinking in and exercising. For a little while, anyway. But that terrain is much easier on dogs’ paws than rocks, for sure.
You are right, the water is and has been pretty chilly. We have only taken brief showers and not gone for swims. Only once did I snorkel when friends lent me their mask and fins. This was an extremely cold experience and had me out of the water after half an hour. I shivered for the rest of the day and my lips remained blue until bedtime! I have a warm-weather and warm-water body!
April 4, 2022 at 05:30
It can be hard work walking on the sand sometimes, especially just after high-tide. It’s a bit like walking in snow. I tend to walk on hard sand (if I can find any).
April 4, 2022 at 13:28
Hard sand is the best for beach walking, Hugh! 🙂
April 2, 2022 at 15:03
Really enjoyed your recap of your adventures alone and with friends in the Sea of Cortez, Liesbet, through photos and text. Looking forward to your next tale of life on the road for the three of you.
April 2, 2022 at 15:10
Thanks, Annie! We’ve had quite a few real adventures while being in Baja this winter. More to come! Starting today. 🙂